Little holes in the floorboard, repair or replace?

[71SandbugCharger]

Can these pinholes and small holes be repaired in the floorboard or would it be better to repair them or go with more costly upfront of removing the floorboard and replacing them?

If repairs, what?

JB Weld?

Something else?

Thanks!

 

[Chargerjase]

The metal in the rust areas will be thin. I wouldn't replace the whole floor if its good, just section in the rusty piece.

 

[hunt2elk]

If that area is your only weak spot, there is no way I would replace the whole pan. Clean everything up good to see what you are dealing with. The top arrow is a seam, so probably ok, only needing new seam sealer. Here is what I have done in the past. For that small area, just buy a cheap Sherman patch panel and use what you need.
My 69 Road Runner

 

[69L48Z27]

I think if you were to sand blast that area on both sides you’ll find more pin holes. If you have good metal around pin holes you can throw some mig weld in there. You’ll probably just keep blowing out the metal if it’s thin. I’ve used 3M panel bond in small pin hole areas before, back it up with tape and it’ll flow in to the holes. Rock solid when done and it sticks. You need to start by cleaning that up with sand blast or wire wheel. Nothing will stick to it the way it is.

 

[dvw]

If it cleans up without a lot of holes and it is still stiff, it'll be fine. Get it clean and then decide. Welding thin metal pin holes is a pain. I've successfully patched them with All Metal, JB, even seam sealer on pin holes. Do both sides. If it's clean and water tight it works. I'm talking cars that have been painted 35+ years now.
Doug

 

[snakeoil24]

Replace what’s pin holes it’s just easier

 

[1967coronet]

Excuse the fat finger but this area needs to be removed and then replaced with a cut down aftermarket pan.
Need to get outside to good steel.

 

[eldubb440]

it also allows you to clean out the crust

 

[slimt]

I would clean up the whole area just to see how the rest is as well. And replacing with a pan is a good idea. Do you have some skills to replace? It is awkward in that area.?

 

[Sam69sat]

it also allows you to clean out the crust

View attachment 1398999
View attachment 1399001
View attachment 1398998

I'm about to do that same patches on my coronet. Do you drill out the spot welds on that upper seam from the engine bay side?

 

[eldubb440]

I'm about to do that same patches on my coronet. Do you drill out the spot welds on that upper seam from the engine bay side?

actually, that makes for bigger holes to weld than I prefer...... I cut the pan close to the flange so I can get the edge of a cutoff wheel in there to grind the welds away, then I can drill a series of much smaller holes for the plug welds ......1/4 inch works for me, as the welds tend to grow to a normal size

 

[dvw]

Trust me I've welded plenty of sheet metal. And no place better to learn than on floor pans. That being said I've made better looking small hole and pitted metal repair than many of the repacement pieces I've seen welded in. So it depends on the desired result and your skill level.
Doug

 

[747mopar]

If it were mine I'd blast it to see just how bad it is and lean more towards repairing the floor you have. I keep copper laying around just for this, huge help when it comes to closing up pin holes.

 

[Dennis H]

My trunk floor was worse. Thirty years ago. But, you could still stand on it. Decent integrity. Wire brush and coated with that slop that turns rust black. Spray body color, put the mat down and forgot it. The same today as it was when completed.

 

[Charger72]

Post #36 of my build I had the same isue.
CDN72SE's Restoration Thread

 

[Chilsam]

I'd clean n weld the pin holes...I'd weld from the inside with a piece of copper plate or pipe backing up floor from the outside...That is exactly what I am going to do on my 70 Coronet

 

[dvw]

I'd clean n weld the pin holes...I'd weld from the inside with a piece of copper plate or pipe backing up floor from the outside...That is exactly what I am going to do on my 70 Coronet View attachment 1401890

Better off filling those with All metal, Epoxy, seam sealer. You end up with a glob of weld 20 times the size of the hole.
Doug

 

[pricer140]

I have used this product (or similiar from Devcon)for patching inside rear fender wells. Extremely strong and durable. Its not in a support area mind you, however given its strength, if it were me, I wouldn't hesitate for the pinholes.

 

[WileERobby]

I like reading threads like this. A question with a myriad of answers. All answers right... and yet, only one could be right. It depends on many factors. Is this a high-dollar, rare, numbers-matching car ? Or.. just a nice car to be used as a fun cruiser ? I think THAT determines the correct answer.

 

[71SandbugCharger]

Exactly! It’s a driver for a 16 year old, driving his first wish. Nothing matches on the car (the car was b2, and the driver door is gold in color and missing the vin sticker). Let’s fix it fast and move onto restoring other needed items. If someday he is in a place to acid wash the whole thing and then replace all the metal, then by all means. Right now it would be best to fill them with epoxy or filler and restore the seat belts and other things! Plenty to do on the car! He’s watching this, so he’s getting a good education! Thanks for all the replies and help.!