Looking for advise on spindle stuff

[Dan0]

Hi,
New guy here with no knowlege of Mopar spindles etc.

I'm fielding an asphalt modified and with a spindle change in order and I'm attracted to Mopar for a
varity of reasons.

After spending many hours searching the A and B forums I think I know what I want,
but don't know their applications.

Here are some pictures and I'm asking for some help in identifying these parts and whether
or not they will be compatable with one another.

Having home machinist/fabricator capability I'm not against plugging a hole and drilling another
next to it, changing tapers or even taper direction, however less monkey motion is a good thing.

Will be using brake stuff I have already with 5 on 4.5 stud pattern.

Hub on the right looks stronger.

spindle on the left looks stronger.

Lower arm would match my lower ball joint in A arm setup.

Thanks for your help.

Dan0

 

[snakeoil24]

Left side spindle looks forged hard to see great. Cast spindle on right id walk away from. Bearing hubs need more info as to sizing.

 

[Dan0]

Left side spindle looks forged hard to see great. Cast spindle on right id walk away from. Bearing hubs need more info as to sizing.

Thanks,
I think a forged spindle is all I would use. The one looks beefier and forged and the extra weight would not be a consideration. I just don't know what to go looking for in the wreacking yard.
I neglected to include that I'm wanting to use a spindle with the larger ID inner bearing.
Dan0

 

[Cranky]

Need to take side by side pics of the spindles both facing the same direction. Can't remember their user name anymore but there's a member here that knows about all the differences through the years. Looks like the spindle on the left has a bracket bolted to it? And both of them look forged to me. Might take a file to both and see if they act the same or not.....

 

[Thrashingcows]

If you want to go heavy duty then search for C-body parts...they will be the heavier of the all the options out there. But making them work on a B-body might be the issue since the spindles will be taller and the ball joints will be wider so that could throw off your front end geometry.

 

[Dan0]

Need to take side by side pics of the spindles both facing the same direction. Can't remember their user name anymore but there's a member here that knows about all the differences through the years. Looks like the spindle on the left has a bracket bolted to it? And both of them look forged to me. Might take a file to both and see if they act the same or not.....

Thanks, maybe I'll hear from the member you mentioned. Don't have any hardware in person, those are pictures I found in the internet

If you want to go heavy duty then search for C-body parts...they will be the heavier of the all the options out there. But making them work on a B-body might be the issue since the spindles will be taller and the ball joints will be wider so that could throw off your front end geometry.

Thanks,
I'll check C body parts now. I'ts going on a Crown Vic frame and the geometry is all up to me.
Just looking for strong stuff,
Dan0

If you want to go heavy duty then search for C-body parts...they will be the heavier of the all the options out there. But making them work on a B-body might be the issue since the spindles will be taller and the ball joints will be wider so that could throw off your front end geometry.

I should say more about the rules I have to work under.
Front of the car frame must be stock American made, and with any brand of, unaltered from it's original donor car, lower A arm.
Spindles can be any make and aftermarket is OK, but must have stock specs per their original donor car. No dropped spindles etc.
Tubular upper arms of any configuration and mounting.
I'm liking Mopar because, and this remains to be proven, from measuring pictures etc., it looks like the ball joint center will be most distant from the wheel center for the most legal drop.
Also, after having a one piece rotor/hub come apart at speed, I will only use a seperate steel hub with a seperate cast iron rotor. Wilwood backs this up by recommending no one piece units racing on asphalt due to extreme forces.
The lower steering arm in the picture might be easy to adapt to the Ford lower ball joint or if not, a ball joint-in-steering arm could have it's ball removed and a bung with the right tapered hole welded in. There are different hole spacing on different steering arms, maybe I can end up with a bolt on fit.
I'll make whatever is needed to mount the calipers in the right place. Now I'm using 1993 Mazda 929 calipers with 2002 Chrysler Concord high carbon rotors. They are 5 on 4.5 already.
Dan0

 

[Thrashingcows]

Those hubs you posted look like front drum brake hubs wit the studs and drums removed. Most of the brake rotors are a one piece unit on mopars.

 

[59pwrwgn]

Those hubs you posted look like front drum brake hubs wit the studs and drums removed. Most of the brake rotors are a one piece unit on mopars.

The rear bearing is larger starting in 73, if you are mixing parts.

 

[Dan0]

Those hubs you posted look like front drum brake hubs wit the studs and drums removed. Most of the brake rotors are a one piece unit on mopars.

Thanks,
I'm OK with any hub that looks strong and will mate up bearing size wise.
I'm also considering using the Crown Vic hubs I have by removing the double ball bearing ubits and making a press in sleeve that will accomodate the Mopar bearings, although that will be a lot more work than I want to go to.
Would I be able to find a drum brake hub that will work with the larger spindle bearing?
Somewhere, can't find it now, been doing a lot of searching, I read that the C body used truck/van sized hub for bearings that have a larger OD but the ID being compatable with the standard car spindle. Anybody know about that?
Dan0

 

[Dan0]

The rear bearing is larger starting in 73, if you are mixing parts.

Thanks,
Yes I expect to mix parts, hoping to do as little modifying as possible so parts are replacable in the furure without a lot of comotion.
Dan0