dcala84141
Well-Known Member
So what was the final outcome?
Was thinking of during the same disc/drum manual
Conversion to my 68 RR
Was thinking of during the same disc/drum manual
Conversion to my 68 RR
Manual Disc/Drum Headache
- Thread starter Gyratingyak
- Start date
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
Well I couldn’t get it to bleed properly still. I’m throwing on a Wilwood MC because its still showing the same exact signs as before. I’ll update once it’s complete, been swamped at work and haven’t been able to do anything to the ol girl. I’m having issue but my buddy did the same swap with his duster and he is happy as can be.
dcala84141
Well-Known Member
Man, it’s got to b so frustrating
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
Well, the Wilwood MC solved my issue. It looks great, but requires an inline 10lb residual pressure valve on the drum circuit according to the literature provided with it. I had one on hand already as part of my troubleshooting. It stops great, consistent pedal and with the new rear shoes snd EBC YellowStuff pads up front, I feel confident in its braking capabilities. I highly recommend the Wilwood MC, now I can finally move onto drive train upgrades and my gauges since I can stop effectively haha. If anyone is facing similar issues feel free to PM me, hopefully I can help you avoid the same headaches I’ve had for about a year.
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
It definitely was. I would find time to actually tinker and troubleshoot, just to have it fail haha. I finally bit the bullet and got a Wilwood MC instead of using the replacement MCs due to bypassing issues. Definitely get a wilwood MC in my opinion, though I wish a cast iron would of worked for a more original look, but the quality doesn’t seem to be there anymore. If anyone wants a bypassing Right Stuff 15/16 bore MC pay shipping and its yours lol
What is the bore size of the new Willwood you went with? Did you just add the residual valve to the rear circuit, or were there more things you had to convert?
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
15/16” bore. 1” should work, just require more leg haha. Yes I just spliced in the residual pressure valve into the rear circuit. I recommend the Titan Tools flaring tool to make it easy to flare on the car, its night and day to an old style flaring tool.
wagonman
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I have never used Right Stuff brake parts but if they are the same quality as their fuel sending units I can see why you have problems. = Suck.
Gyratingyak
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The first MC was right stuff. Wouldn’t even bleed because it kept sucking air. They sent me a replacement I didn’t even try to use, too much hassle to fail again. I then got a Doctor diff 15/16” MC. It bypassed, Cass was awesome, but my luck was not. So I got Wilwood. I would still recommend Dr.Diff and all his products, he was on the phone with me for a long time, multiple times haha. I have his whole front disc kit, prop valve and then flared my own NiCu lines. I’m going to eventually buy my axels, diff and hardware from him, he is a stand up guy.
megaivtes
Well-Known Member
I'm close to installing the same kit except I sourced a 15/16 MC and prop. valve seperatly.
Two questions:
1. I thought with the "new" style wheel cylinders..a residual valve is not needed?
2. Do you eliminate the distribution block up front when using the Proportioning valve?
70chall440
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Normally you would retain your distribution valve I believe.
What exact model Wilwood mc did you buy? Maybe I will go that route also. Cass did some calling around for me and was told with all of the newer rear wheel cylinders, a residual valve is not needed. The aluminum ones he sells do not have them and also don't require one to be installed in the line. Just curious why Wilwood says they need the valve?
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
I added a residual valve just due to having an original Drum MC with the original check valves and it worked great. It shouldn’t be needed. I also got the A body prop valve thats a direct swap over from the drum distribution block. If you use an adjustable prop, just use the factory distribution block and add in the prop valve to the rear circuit.
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
Cass said the same to me but wilwood said it was suggested. Honestly I trust cass, but I had an original drum MC and for $14 I just threw it in to have the same effect as my prior set up. It wouldn’t adversely effect it if not needed so just for Insurance I added it. Cass is completely right with the seals on modern wheel cylinders, it doesn’t need pressure on the cups to stay expanded and sealed. I suggest getting the USA Made NAPA wheel cylinders versus Advanced/Autozone.
Thanks for the reply as Cass has sold out of the USA made rear wheel cylinders and I have been trying to source some older ones on Ebay. I will go get some from NAPA.
Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP37053?searchCategory=c3.s5&searchIndex=Universal had them pulled up to get extras lol
I need the 7/8" versions. 37236. Just got off the phone with NAPA and they don't have any in stock of course. Have to bring them in and can't guarantee they are USA made. 10% restocking fee if I don't want them. This is getting so frustrating trying to find quality parts.
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