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Master Cylinder Suggestion

young99

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I have a 1969 Coronet 440 that was switched over to power brake before getting the car. I am wanting to swap this over to manual brakes and cant decide on on the best master cylinder replacement for me. The car currently has disc front and drum rear. Over time I am building the car for road courses but want to start with the master cylinder replacement first.

It is 727 automatic car atm but plan to eventually swap to 4 speed once I can find one close enough to me for sale.

A couple things I am wondering is if there is a difference between manual vs power brake pedals or where they both the same?

the pedal length is about 13 inches from middle of brake petal to top of rod. It is 10 inches from the middle of the pedal to the first connector up. That connector is right at 3 inches across then goes up about 2 inches to the master cylinder rod. I am also not sure what bore the current master hase.

I need good quality for the money. I looked at companies like wilwood and they look nice. Can anyone suggest what master cylinder to go with?
 
wilwood... made in USA i have the 7/8 bore works sweet and looks even better !!, black powder coated is what i used and love it..

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Mopar Wilwood.jpg
 
wildwood is the way to go, 7/8 bore for manual and 1/18 for power.
but why would anyone want manual brakes when they already have power lol
 
I switched my Charger over from power drum to manual disc/drum. If you want an original looking master cylinder then the mc5621 sold by Pirate Jack or The Ramman is your only option. I have this cylinder on both my cars. You will also need a manual brake rod and backing plate. You could try moparmarks or Moparparts on this site for these items. Both great guys who should be able to help you out.
 
The main reason behind my brake upgrade is for racing, I plan to use it mainly for racing and very little for driving other than car shows. As the car sets now it has about 15% braking power under 30mph and 85% braking at 35mph+, so its pretty dangerous if your not paying attention. The engine has a cam and sucks all the braking out of the car at low speeds.

I have always heard you have much better brake feeling with manual brakes when racing. So I am not really worried about originality just safety and functionality.
 
I use the Strange Engineering master with the additional proportioning valve for my Drag car. Strange disc brakes all 4 wheels
 
I will look at the Strange Engineering products. The racing I will be doing is road track so will be on the brakes quite hard and heavy.
 
why not go a hydroboost unit if you dont have enough vacuum, i dont think there is a better option if it is a race car. People put alot of time and money into horsepower for their engine, why not put horsepower into your brakes
 
I really like the hydroboost option but this may fall outside of my price range. What is all needed with a new setup?

From what it looks like is just the hydroboost to the firewall plate then a master cylinder that will fit the unit. Attach the unit to your pedals and hook up your lines?
 
one other question. If I go from Power back to Manual will I need to change the pedals out? I was not sure if there were differences.
 
one other question. If I go from Power back to Manual will I need to change the pedals out? I was not sure if there were differences.

The pedals are the same with either system.
 
I just ordered a wilwood setup for my charger but I did 4 wheel disc and power brakes I looked into a few of the big names and wilwood is the best bang for the buck . Shop the dealers the guy I bought from was $140 a set cheaper on the brakes then most of the others he's been beating every one on price even on my 4 speed parts if you want his info p.m. me and I'll get it for you
My brother in law drives auto cross and a good brake setup makes or brakes it ,he was burning up rotors till he did his last upgrade, but he's looking into the big 6 piston wilwoods now
Good luck
 
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