Mcleod rst vs centerforce dfx clutch

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

I have been fighting my 2900 lb single Mcleod clutch since I installed it. Super heavy pedal pressure, linkage is not heavy enough to handle a 2 men and a boy clutch effort.

I talked to Mcleod tech and they agree that clutch is a monster and they recomended using the RST clutch. The tech said 1800 lb pedal effort. I mentioned the Centerforce DFX clutch and of course he poo pooed it saying the centrifugal weights are a gimmick. Now I know a few people that like the CF clutch and have nothing bad to say about them.

The Mcleod is 800+ $ and the Centerforce is less than half of that. I know sometimes you get what you pay for and that is why I want to throw this out there for all you manual trans people.

Car 3600 lb B body, My Mill is a 475 hp 500 tq 440 with a TKO 600 4:10'S AND 28" Nitto street tires. I don't race it at the track but need holding power and ease of pedal effort.

I perfer the CF DFX due to price... however, I do not want it to wear out quick or not hold my tq.


Thanks ~

 

[benno440]

i am using a american powertrain kevlar science friction clutch and a billet steel flywheel, used to have the hydraulic setup and the pedal was hard then the seals blew in the internal slave cylinder so i went back to mechanical linkage and it is so easy to depress the pedal.
my car is a 68 charger 3800 lb, 505 BB approx 620hp, a833 OD box and 3:55 8 3/4, 27" semi race tires, i drive this car everywhere when it is working haha.

 

[coloradodave]

From an earlier post:
I run the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch set and an SFI Flywheel from them as well. Diaphragm with easy pedal pressure and good engagement. I've run McLeod and Hayes in the past with good results too. I'm sure you'll get plenty of opinions on this. Best advice is to buy it from Summit or Jegs. Easy to deal with if you have a problem...

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

What kinda torque and gears are you torturing the CF dfc ? I want to try one, but I need convinced it will live behind my 410 geared torque monster. My 440 wicks up like a 327 and delivers an extreme broad torque load from off idle up to 4800 rpms.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I don't know how it will react when I get my 64 Dodge so that I can really test it out, but so far - I just love my Centerforce dual friction. It is easier to push the clutch pedal down than stock with the "over center" spring. ....................MO

 

[Wookie316]

I have an RST behind my 511. It works great. Well worth the $. If you are going to drag with it though, step up to the RXT. It's a lot of $ but it won't let you down. Pedal effort is that of a light weight import.
If your effort is too much then your pedal ratio needs to be better. No clutch will fix a poor pedal ratio. I am at a ratio of about 4 1/2"-1. I used to be half that with the same clutch and it sucked!
It took some time to get my geometry right with hydraulics but was well worth it.

 

[coloradodave]

As far as my car, I have no idea what the horsepower or torque is. Never been on a dyno. You're on your own as far as guarantees, because, as they say, your experience may differ from mine...

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

My pedal ratio is stock, which is more than 4:1 changing that is too much hassle. I do not want hydraulics. The reason the clutch is stiff is it's a way stronger than stock pedal effort. 2900 lb diaphram clutch using the stock over center spring. I can drag race with this single disc clutch with no slippage. All I want is a comparable clutch with light pedal effort, but also will live and hold with occasional drag racing on street tires.

I think the RST or DFX would fit the bill... I am thinking RST would be best.

 

[coloradodave]

Go for it...like I said, ask 10 people their opinions and you'll get 10 different answers. With my race cars I used Hayes and then McLeod because I could get sponsorship through the speed shop I worked for. Both did the job. With my current street/strip car I use the Centerforce because it is affordable and does the job. 440, 10:1, ported/polished max wedge iron heads, hot street cam & kit, port matched factory crossram (750 cfm Edelbrock carbs or 500 cfm depending on what day of the week it is), TTI 2" headers with a full 2.5" exhaust system with X pipe, 3.91 suregrip and 28" tall M/T DOT street slicks. With the 2" headers there was no room for mechanical linkage so I used a hydraulic slave set-up which eventually got replaced with a hydraulic throw-out bearing, which works very well. Different strokes....

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

Your right... hard to find the truth out there... been there and done that stories are a dime a dozen. How hard do you use or abuse your centerforce... and which disc series do you use.

 

[coloradodave]

I use the Centerforce Dual Friction set, which includes a disc that has a full face on one side and a set of carbon composite puks on the other side. As I'm a little different, I also use an aluminum SFI flywheel. I found that even with Calvert mono springs/shocks and Competition Engineering bars (similar to Cal-Tracs) I was blowing off the tires on the street with a steel flywheel. The 275/60-15 M/Ts are the widest I can get in the stock fenderwell. Now it hooks much better and the rpm comes up fast. NOT talking about the track here, just the street where my car spends all its time.
Good luck with whatever you eventually choose.