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Car and truck fmea are totally different
Yeah I have been told that.
Question is what fits best in vintage conversions.... I know A/C, I don't know Gen III swaps...
The car front end system seems to be preferred over the truck versions for swaps although I have see where some have used them in certain applications.
There's early truck, late truck, car/jeep. They can all fit.
Bouchillon on mine
I like your method of keeping as much of the OEM AC system under the hood as possible. I have already had the orignal AC/heater box rebuilt. Couple of questions if I may. Any particular manufacturer of Sanden style SD508 compressor you'd recommend? They all seemed to be chinese knock offs. I plan on keeping as many of my hard lines as possible. The dryer line and the pipe coming off the expansion valve all look doable. Not sure how to run the high side hose/hard-line that came out of the front of the RV2 compressor. Do you have a part number for the thermostatic switch that you use? The orignal expansion valve has the capilliary tube inserted into metal pipe 10" from the exp valve. Where do you insert the capillary tube for the thermostatic switch in your upgrades. I was going to pick up a set bouchlion compressor brackets to clear the thermostat cover on the aluminum water-pump. Appreciate any advice you might have. Thanks Tim
I've just used the generic SD508 units, they all seem to work fine... Lately I've been using the ones that are black, they tend to grab the eye less which I prefer.. On the suction line and the discharge line I use the original formed tube from the evaporator and the condenser, I cut the tube saving as much as possible and I silver solder on steel fittings like these... https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=131439&c=4384 The #10 fitting needs to be opened up to fit the factory #12 steel line, quick easy job, just drill it to fit the line... From there just use suitable fittings to aim the hose where it needs to go..... I prefer to have the charge fittings at those locations & just use plain fittings at the compressor... The high side isn't that important but the low side by keeping the charge port further from the compressor protects the compressor from damage due to liquid R134 going into the compressor... I put the expansion valve capillary in the stock tube & I wrap the capillary from the thermostatic switch around the whole tube... Once the insulation sleeve is secured around it you almost can't tell it's there.. Thermostatic switch... https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Co...c+switch+automotive+a/c&qid=1608143557&sr=8-7 Binary switch https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons...y+switch+automotive+a/c&qid=1608143659&sr=8-2
One thing I did when embracing the modern compressor and all soft lines was route them so it's easy to remove the system to yank the engine without having to open the system like many of the hog-tied oem layouts do. I can just unbolt the compressor and lay it over on the fender.
Thank You Sir. There is just no substitute for hands-on experience. Even us Old School Ford guys can learn a thing or too. Thank you for your time and expertise once more. Tim
Happy to help.... Just done tell the Chevy boys...