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Momentous day for the Bee’s dash

440beep

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After taking the rallye dash out of the Bee and following DadsBee techniques, I cleaned the PCB board, bench tested the gauges, and installed that solid state voltage limiter, the Bee fuel gauge finally reads FULL with a full tank. And the instrument panel is finally entirely bright. The speedo gauge has always been partially dark, but I moved the one orange lead with the actual wire to a different spot, top of the speedo, and it’s fully lit now! First time in 12 years I’m happy with the dash.

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After taking the rallye dash out of the Bee and following DadsBee techniques, I cleaned the PCB board, bench tested the gauges, and installed that solid state voltage limiter, the Bee fuel gauge finally reads FULL with a full tank. And the instrument panel is finally entirely bright. The speedo gauge has always been partially dark, but I moved the one orange lead with the actual wire to a different spot, top of the speedo, and it’s fully lit now! First time in 12 years I’m happy with the dash.

View attachment 1491540

View attachment 1491541So the solid state made that much difference in brightness? My dash lights have always been meh.
 
What did I do again .. lol. Looks good.

..and no MWbird, the VR has ZERO to do with the lighting.
Ok thanks Dadsbee. Went through the whole dash when I restored my car in 91 guess my lighting is what it is. Lights fair but not blinding lol
 
I’m using LEDs for the dash lights, and they were ok before. Seems really odd just by relocating the wired orange lead to the top of the Speedo that all the gauges’ brightness improved. But now I have an empty socket at bottom of speedo (maybe for odometer) and that extra light socket that fell out, and for the life of me can’t fit the two together. Weird.

Ok thanks Dadsbee. Went through the whole dash when I restored my car in 91 guess my lighting is what it is. Lights fair but not blinding lol
 
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