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mopar 509 purple cam cam

yannick47

yannick47

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hey i was thinking about upgrading to a 509 purple cam..few questions do i have to degree he cam while installing or can i install it as i installed my stock cam?thanks
 
Your first questions should be:

Do I have enough compression?
Do I have enough valve spring?
Do I have a valve train that can handle the extra spring pressures?

If you have a similar cam now then you may be OK with the change, but if you are running something close to stock be prepared to pull the heads and get them set up for the bigger cam.
 
i have eddy rpm heads on?cant i use these springs?and ive got 10.5 comp if im not wrong
Meep-Meep said:
Your first questions should be:

Do I have enough compression?
Do I have enough valve spring?
Do I have a valve train that can handle the extra spring pressures?

If you have a similar cam now then you may be OK with the change, but if you are running something close to stock be prepared to pull the heads and get them set up for the bigger cam.
Click to expand...
 
In that case you are off to a good start but ALWAYS double check for coil bind and for proper spring pressures at the factory installed height. Also rocker geometry must be correct. 10.5:1 (if that is what you really have) should be fine too. You also shouldn't be running tall gears. The .509" will keep the engine power band at a fairly high RPM so it will be best suited with a 4.10 or lower gear set as well as a looser converter. 2.94's in a heavy car is not a recipe for success with that cam.
 
i run stock rockers and im in the process of checking what gear ratio i have prob get it done by today....another thing is will i have to degree the cam or can i just install like i installed my stock cam?and m8 any suggestion on a good cam ..mainly for street use and going to the track about a dozen times a year thanks
Meep-Meep said:
In that case you are off to a good start but ALWAYS double check for coil bind and for proper spring pressures at the factory installed height. Also rocker geometry must be correct. 10.5:1 (if that is what you really have) should be fine too. You also shouldn't be running tall gears. The .509" will keep the engine power band at a fairly high RPM so it will be best suited with a 4.10 or lower gear set as well as a looser converter. 2.94's in a heavy car is not a recipe for success with that cam.
Click to expand...
 
The .509" will require dual springs (I'm pretty sure) so if that's the case I wouldn't use the stock rockers. My old standard is to use the iron adjutables and 3/8" push rods, but these days there are plenty of quality roller rockers available at a reasonable price. The point is to have a strong valve train that won't flex under the higher valve spring pressures. Cam degreeing is not "required" on any vintage MoPar but can provide valuable info.

The .509" with the 108 LC is also a pretty aggressive cam so if you plan to do a lot of low speed street driving I'd rethink your choice. An MSD should be mandatory to keep the plugs clean.
 
I disagree with not having to degree in a cam. I do it with all cams...stock included. If you use the same sprockets and chain, you have a good chance that everything will be fine but then what if the cam isn't ground on the money? IMO, you are 'leaving money on the table' when you just stick em in. If you degree it and then the car acts sluggish in the lower rpm range after, then you know exactly where the cam is. Then you can advance the cam for a better low end. Also when you degree one in, you find 'true' TDC and can find exactly your valve clearances are. It's a win win deal and it should always be part of a cam change. It's not that hard and not that expensive to make sure your car will run at the top of it's game....not to mention I know too many people that have messed up pistons and valves because things were not right when they just stuck in a cam. Btw, I have never had a cam go in and be right on the money but the closest one was only 1 degree off so it was left there but the worse one was 15 degrees off but a buddy had one where the sprockets were either incorrectly marked or the key ways were off. He bent all 8 of his brand new 2.14 intakes. Yeah, he thought he could get away with just slamming it in and this guy knew his stuff but got in a hurry and it bit him.
 
I am running a 509 cam in my 69 RR 440 engine. Working good with stock magnum springs, and has no coil bind. It is an 8 to 1 C/R motor, so I'm sure it will work alot better when I put it in the 11.5 to 1 C/R 451 I am building for the car. This cam will not allow power brakes to work hardly at all. Must use a vacumn storage canister, or manual brakes. I am going to manual brakes. Good luck
 
I just degreed my cam, like you I just put it in set the timing marks to 0 and away I went, I have a isky 292 cam. I bought a new comp double roller timing set like I had before, turns out when I degreed I had to go 4 degrees retarded to get my center line close to 108 which came to 107.
 
Install a cam... DEGREE it in. And the stock rockers are fine for the Hyd 509.
 
i would be driving around town quite offen....and i do i have power brakes...im double mnded about the 509 cam now...i talked to the lads at luncati cams and they recommended part http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60303LK/ ...the said it would work with power brakes too bit confused now though ?has anyone run this cam??is the 489 purplecam streetable ?
 
I'd run that Lunati cam. I run the Racer Brown version of the Mopar 484 in my 340. It's streetable but only 8in of vacuum. 3k vert and 4.10s too.
 
You CAN run the 509 with power brakes, if you use a vacumn storage canister. Available from Summit. A friend of mine does this, and it works good. For now on my Road Runner with the 509, I have to down shift it to get them to work. But its difficult when first starting out. So it will have to be a manual brake set up for me.
 
There is a big difference between the .509 and the mildish 226/234 Lunati that was recommended. Like someone noted earlier of the 108 centerline and I believe the .509 has about 246 degrees of duration at .050" lift and a healthy 76 degree overlap.

I would shoot the middle, and if you already have a new timing set with a single bolt I would go with the
Comp cams #CL21-224-4

274/286 duration advertized
230/236 duration @ .050"
.488/.491 valve lift with 1.5 rockers
110 centerline
----------------------------------------
If you have a 3 bolt cam gear and if you have sufficient valve clearance I would run the Lunati #60304LK

276/284 duration advertized
234/242 duration @ .050"
.513/.533 valve lift
110 centerline
----------------------------------------
(The Lunati will be the slightly more aggressive of the two.)

I have the .509 purple shaft in my '70 Runner.. Not enough vacuum to open the air grabber, until I changed the spring.
I have run a Hughes 223/230 - .512+-/.523+- Very steetable/mild lope
And also the Comp XE 230/236 that I listed, nice lope, well liked all around and with power brakes.

For most all around use I like the 110 centerline with a span of 230-242 duration @ .050"
 
he i just bought a new 3 bolt timing gear set...would the 60303 or 60304 have good low end torque ?or even the comp cam you recommended? thanks
has2bmopar said:
There is a big difference between the .509 and the mildish 226/234 Lunati that was recommended. Like someone noted earlier of the 108 centerline and I believe the .509 has about 246 degrees of duration at .050" lift and a healthy 76 degree overlap.

I would shoot the middle, and if you already have a new timing set with a single bolt I would go with the
Comp cams #CL21-224-4

274/286 duration advertized
230/236 duration @ .050"
.488/.491 valve lift with 1.5 rockers
110 centerline
----------------------------------------
If you have a 3 bolt cam gear and if you have sufficient valve clearance I would run the Lunati #60304LK

276/284 duration advertized
234/242 duration @ .050"
.513/.533 valve lift
110 centerline
----------------------------------------
(The Lunati will be the bit more aggressive of the two.)

I have the .509 purple shaft in my '70 Runner
I have run a Hughes 223/230 - .512+-/.523+- Very steetable/mild lope
And also the Comp XE that I listed, nice lope, well liked all around and with power brakes.

For most all around use I like the 110 centerline with a span of 230-242 duration @ .050"
Click to expand...
 
The #60303 would have better low end torque and work better if you have 3.23 or 3.55 gears.

The #60304 will like 3.91 gears better, but 3.55s would'nt be bad either.

RPM power range
#60303 - 1800-6200 RPM
#60304 - 2200-6400 RPM

I put the .509 Purple shaft in my '70 Runner many years ago, with 3.54 gears and it was pretty sad on the low end, then it would come unglued at 3000 RPM.

It ran 13.30 @ 108mph in the quarter with untouched 906 heads, pump gas and spinning bad on street tires. Not good by todays standards, but was still fun to drive.
 
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