mopar mega block

[stage3]

just bought a mega block and was wondering how hard it is to grind away the material indicated by the accompanying article from the HP mopar performance big block manual..i want to switch over my full cover milodon gear drive to work on this block from my new shortblock that now is for sale..hand grind it ? what have others done ? thanks.

 

[pnora]

Its just cast iron so grind away.

 

[rickseeman]

As already posted, just grind it away with a carbide burr. You can use a flap wheel on some of it if you want. Just do a good job. They milled the one in the photo but that's not necessary.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I tried with a grinder, it ended up at a machine shop as it was going to be a bitch. These blocks are super hard. I initially thought no big deal with a burr… lol

 

[stage3]

I tried with a grinder, it ended up at a machine shop as it was going to be a bitch. These blocks are super hard. I initially thought no big deal with a burr… lol

View attachment 1582619View attachment 1582618View attachment 1582623

yeah thats what i thought, looks like .500 needs to be removed. once set up a milling machine should make quick work of it.. thanks.

 

[pnora]

That can easily be cut with a disc and then finished with a grinder, flapper, or carbide cutter.

 

[stage3]

That can easily be cut with a disc and then finished with a grinder, flapper, or carbide cutter.

which disc ? its a small tight space..

 

[pnora]

which disc ? its a small tight space..

Just a regular cut off wheel. Make two careful cuts and the main piece is removed. Then clean it up. Its not a critical cut its just for clearance.

 

[stage3]

Just a regular cut off wheel. Make two careful cuts and the main piece is removed. Then clean it up. Its not a critical cut its just for clearance.

those tools i have,,,we will see thanks.

 

[pnora]

those tools i have,,,we will see thanks.

Mark it and make the cuts. Take your time and clean it up when done.

 

[stage3]

got it done today, 3" cut off wheel , air sander and a carbide burr went right thru it..if only i had an xtra milodon gear drive laying around i could test fit it. but mine's on my motor still in the car. .500 was removed from 3 locations and took a little off the top of the oil galley plug boss per the book. thanks for all the replys.

 

[pnora]

Looks good. Bet it did not take long to do.

 

[stage3]

Looks good. Bet it did not take long to do.

1 hour start to finish, the cut off wheel went right thru it but the 24 tooth blade in my air body saw went smooth in a very short period of time. my carbide burrs worked good also for trimming , they r high quality name brand pieces...

do u guys think the main cap bolts that came with it r good for 800 HP ? rather not put studs in it since my machine shop doesnt have anybody anymore who's qualified to use the align bore/hone machine. and the next closest machine shop is 4 hours away...

 

[pnora]

1 hour start to finish, the cut off wheel went right thru it but the 24 tooth blade in my air body saw went smooth in a very short period of time. my carbide burrs worked good also for trimming , they r high quality name brand pieces...

do u guys think the main cap bolts that came with it r good for 800 HP ? rather not put studs in it since my machine shop doesnt have anybody anymore who's qualified to use the align bore/hone machine. and the next closest machine shop is 4 hours away...

I would think so. The center 3 mains are cross bolted. As I recall they used ARP bolts.

 

[stage3]

I would think so. The center 3 mains are cross bolted. As I recall they used ARP bolts.

they r cross bolted ,,Really ARP ? i should take a closer look....

 

[pnora]

they r cross bolted ,,Really ARP ? i should take a closer look....

I thought they were. There were several versions of those blocks. I know my wedge had bolts but I upgraded to studs.

 

[stage3]

There were several versions of those blocks.

thats for sure, when i started researching these looks like in 1996 they sold them as Service replacement 440 blocks for std applications as well as for racing complete with cross bolted mains.. and as far as i can tell there are no differances between the blocks they just hung a different name on them.. this block is at 4.380 and the cylinders still measure appx .320 - .380 thick.

 

[pnora]

thats for sure, when i started researching these looks like in 1996 they sold them as Service replacement 440 blocks for std applications as well as for racing complete with cross bolted mains.. and as far as i can tell there are no differances between the blocks they just hung a different name on them.. this block is at 4.380 and the cylinders still measure appx .320 - .380 thick.

There were different foundries as I recall. There were different ways to identify them and the different changes. Do you know the part number? Googling the number may come up with the Mopar sales information.

 

[stage3]

There were different foundries as I recall. There were different ways to identify them and the different changes. Do you know the part number? Googling the number may come up with the Mopar sales information.

u cant see this by looking directly at it. it requires a light coming in from the left side and up a little. i tried a black lite bulb but it didn't help. i think it says P5007482AB.. the G is from the galaxie maching, #043 for the day ? and the 482AB is the last digits of the part/application number ? MC foundry. the orange smudge on the side is the remnants of the factory application sticker. it came out of a FMC motorhome that was installed when the original motor died.

 

[dvw]

1 hour start to finish, the cut off wheel went right thru it but the 24 tooth blade in my air body saw went smooth in a very short period of time. my carbide burrs worked good also for trimming , they r high quality name brand pieces...

do u guys think the main cap bolts that came with it r good for 800 HP ? rather not put studs in it since my machine shop doesnt have anybody anymore who's qualified to use the align bore/hone machine. and the next closest machine shop is 4 hours away...

I'd screw the studs in and measure with a dial bore gauge. It may be fine.. For that matter it may not be correct with the bolts either. Needs to be measured.
Doug