motor plate

[bearman]

okay, going with a motor plate on my 440. i have already cut my k member and have not cut out the stock motor motor mounts. i was thinking i should bolt the motor in the stock position. then bolt up the plate and secure it then cut out old mounts or should i just finish the k member and set the motor in with the new plate. ideas would help thanks bearman

 

[Ironbuilt]

Hey Barry...

 

[bearman]

i know plate not here till next week. was trying to get ahead of the project. i will send out pics next week when i get the plate. also headed over to dry heat place to help with floor pan on his 64.

 

[andyf]

okay, going with a motor plate on my 440. i have already cut my k member and have not cut out the stock motor motor mounts. i was thinking i should bolt the motor in the stock position. then bolt up the plate and secure it then cut out old mounts or should i just finish the k member and set the motor in with the new plate. ideas would help thanks bearman

Depends which motor plate you buy. If you buy one of the plates that I make then it puts the engine in the correct location. If you buy a "universal" motor plate then you'll need to know where the engine is supposed to go before you start cutting.

 

[Hemicbx]

I was re-doing my drag car from one moto plate to another. Cut the mounts off in between so basically started at same point as if you cut off your mounts. I found dimensions for centerline of crank. Pretty sure TTI header instructions specified that location. I assembled a bare block & trans case and set them in. Used 2 bolts threaded into those longer coupler nut thingies to make little adjustable stands and put one on each side of the front of the blocks pan rail so I could jack it up/down/tilt. Got left/right by brute force and up/down with my jacks, then cut the plate to fit.

I don't have any pics of all that, just of the (near) final result

 

[bearman]

that is looking good, i'm thinking of going in with engine and trans to stock mounts. then start mocking up motor plate, headers etc for good fit. got to modify my trans mount also using 76 year think mounts were different. cool alt bracket thank you for your help will make sure centerline is correct. did you modify the k member also?.

 

[bearman]

Depends which motor plate you buy. If you buy one of the plates that I make then it puts the engine in the correct location. If you buy a "universal" motor plate then you'll need to know where the engine is supposed to go before you start cutting.

i do believe its yours getting it from mancini. thanks for all your efforts to supply parts to the mopar clan. its also great to watch your build and you using the same parts we do really gives the rest of us the feeling that the weekend warrior can have that dream. your input and were to go and how it fits is just great. bearman

 

[Hemicbx]

Mine was a generic plate that needed a lot of careful trimming to get it into the right place.

One thing I made sure to do is to get the plate trimmed exactly right so that when the plate was sitting on the frame rails the crank was located correctly THEN I drilled holes thru both the brackets and the plate in one shot. This makes it so much easier to install the engine. Bolts fall thru the holes when I set it down. No goofing around with crane & alignment.

I did notch & reinforce my k member.

If I had mounts on the k when starting, I would set the engine on those and then fit the plate to maintain that location.

 

[andyf]

i do believe its yours getting it from mancini. thanks for all your efforts to supply parts to the mopar clan. its also great to watch your build and you using the same parts we do really gives the rest of us the feeling that the weekend warrior can have that dream. your input and were to go and how it fits is just great. bearman

Okay, if you're using one of my plates then it should just bolt in. Measure side to side to make sure the crank is offset the correct amount and the measure from the crank to the K frame to double check the height. The motor plate is designed for TTI headers. If you are using different headers then you might need to shim things a little bit one way or the other.

 

[bearman]

thank you again will check all the specs once i get it. have not bought the headers yet and was looking at tti. little by little it will come together. working on a new quick ratio gear box right now. wow $$$$$$$$$ for one of them is pretty tall. found one at o'reilly's built by lars if i read correctly. around $300.00 and housing aluminium 24/1 ratio any thoughts. thanks bearman

 

[bearman]

Okay, if you're using one of my plates then it should just bolt in. Measure side to side to make sure the crank is offset the correct amount and the measure from the crank to the K frame to double check the height. The motor plate is designed for TTI headers. If you are using different headers then you might need to shim things a little bit one way or the other.
View attachment 714395

really like that alt bracket setup can i get that part number from you.

 

[bearman]

the one i ordered looks like just like that one. i'm excited about getting this setup and move forward my build.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

This is a "rookie" question....It makes total sense to set the engine down on the motor mounts first.....but, if you know you're going with a motor plate for sure....and you're building a track car......then why not set the engine back a couple inches? I don't know, that's why I'm asking.

 

[bearman]

just giving the look of track car. mine more street than track and of course as i figure it out the engine might be moved a couple of inches back. but leaving the stock mounts in it just to make sure the offset is correct and then set the headers in etc i then can see what to do to move it back or not. will remove stock mounts once everything is in order. the last thing i need is to cut out the stock mounts and have the engine flopping around like a fish or a vibration i don't need. i'm also a rookie at alot of this but i have what i want in my pee brain. hope it all works out

 

[6PKRTSE]

okay, going with a motor plate on my 440. i have already cut my k member and have not cut out the stock motor motor mounts. i was thinking i should bolt the motor in the stock position. then bolt up the plate and secure it then cut out old mounts or should i just finish the k member and set the motor in with the new plate. ideas would help thanks bearman

This is exactly how I did my front & mid plates. Not enough room to move back or down any further with my stock location firewall which the rules says I must have. I was also able to mount my coil, fuel regulator log, vacuum pump, catch canister & alternator all off of the front plate.

 

[andyf]

This is a "rookie" question....It makes total sense to set the engine down on the motor mounts first.....but, if you know you're going with a motor plate for sure....and you're building a track car......then why not set the engine back a couple inches? I don't know, that's why I'm asking.

When you build a car you can do anything you want as long as you're prepared to deal with the consequences. Moving the engine back a couple of inches in Mopar will open a big can of worms. If you're prepared to handle all of the issues then go ahead and fire up the power tools. I wouldn't recommend it on a nice B body car though since you'll most likely ruin the car's value and maybe the car itself depending on your skill level.

 

[bearman]

Advice well taken sometimes I get ahead of my self. Back to earth now thanks andy

 

[andyf]

If the car is an early B body then you can move the engine back to the B2 location without too many problems. You'll need to change transmission mounts of course and cut the driveshaft and change the shifter location. You'll also need different radiator hoses and maybe make some other adjustments. Moving the engine back on an early B body provides more room for a clutch fan and a thicker radiator and it allows you to use some different headers and oil pans. Moving the engine location on a 1966 or newer B body car would be a race only type of deal and even then most people wouldn't do it because it will be so much work and it really hacks the car up.

 

[bearman]

Andy, thank you for everything I am not going that direction. Just want to be a great street car. Yes I'll hit the track as I improve on the power ban. But it will look like it's race ready. Do I go to Mancini for alt brackets I know I need that spacer for crank pulley.. thanks bearman

 

[coloradodave]

Andy, thank you for everything I am not going that direction. Just want to be a great street car. Yes I'll hit the track as I improve on the power ban. But it will look like it's race ready. Do I go to Mancini for alt brackets I know I need that spacer for crank pulley.. thanks bearman

bearman; Make sure you include the price of a 'mouth guard' for your teeth if this car is going to mainly be driven on the street. I used all poly bushings and aftermarket control arms in my 63 Fury and regret it every day, as I drive my car a lot. If it's only going to be a Sunday driver I guess it wouldn't be a problem. JMHO