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MSD BTM dead?

fmahannah

1963 Dodge Polara Max Wedge Tribute
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Now that I finally got my wedge tribute running, I needed to clean things up so I washed the engine compartment (not pressure just garden hose).
Used leaf blower to blow all excess water away. After that I started it and let it run until it got hot to dry everything out.
When I went to start it again to put it back in the garage, it started ran a second and quit. Tried again same thing.
Thought I might be out of gas so put more in the tank and checked to make sure fuel pump was working and it was.
Same behavior. Left overnight and now no start at all.

Checked for spark, none.
Checked 12v wire from battery to msd box, has power.
Checked 12v small wire with ignition switch on, has power.
Did test jumping magnetic pickup wires per MSD to see if any spark, none.

Could a little water have actually killed this MSD BTM box? The coil is now, but swapped it anyways for a known good one, still no spark.
Since a new box is over $300 I want to run every possible test to confirm the box is actually dead before I buy one.

Does anybody know what might have happened or other tests that I can try?

One thing I did question is that I thought MSD boxes did not require a ballast resistor? This car still has one, see photo. And the 12v ignition on wire is tapped into one side of it?

IMG_6174.JPG
 
Not sure about your MSD box, but it is normal to tap the driver side of ballast for a good 12V supply to engine accessories like aftermarket ignition. I still have a ballast in mine, but it has been gutted from behind. I replaced resistor w a 10ga wire and then silicone filled it. That way the engine compartment looks a little more original.
 
The MSD 6 instructions say not necessary to bypass the factory bal res.
Pretty sure the MSD boxes are 'potted', sealed against moisture entry.
Check the bat terminals for corrosion after washing. The thick red & black MSD wires: black goes to bat [-] or grd. Check the connection for corrosion. Red wire goes to bat [+] terminal or alt stud. Check this.
Check that the thin red wire from the box has 12v during cranking & ign.
To check the box: ground the white wire & you should get a spark. If you get spark, I would check inside dist for moisture.
 
Using magentic pickup, tried jumping the two connectors for that per instructions with key on and got nothing. Thick red, thin red, and thick black all checked out
 
I was for a boosted engine that is no longer in the car. (Boost Timing Master) Had an adjustable dial on dash where you could tweak the advance based on boost level. Boost part is no longer used.
 
I was for a boosted engine that is no longer in the car. (Boost Timing Master) Had an adjustable dial on dash where you could tweak the advance based on boost level. Boost part is no longer used.
There is an old Confucius saying: "FANCY GIZMOS DON'T WORK AND IF THEY DO, THEY WILL QUIT AT THE MOST INOPPORTUNE TIME.....". Perhaps, now is the time to replace the system with something more dependable.....??.....Pertronix or points???
BOB RENTON
 
there is an old Confucius saying: "FANCY GIZMOS DON'T WORK AND IF THEY DO, THEY WILL QUIT AT THE MOST INOPPORTUNE TIME.....". Perhaps, now is the time to replace the system with something more dependable.....??.....Pertronix or points???
BOB RENTON
Damn electronic ignition! They should have never come out with that. I guess there was nothing wrong with points. :lol:

Everything goes bad eventually. At least you figured it out. :thumbsup:
 
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