My car...a few questions

[dam130af]

Here is a picture of my '72 Charger. I've been meaning to post it for quite a while now. A few specs on it. I've had it about 10 years now. I bought it when I was 18 stationed at Little Rock AFB. I'm not sure on exact engine specs since I've never rebuilt it. I will add what I know.
-400 Chrylser block
-Ross Ultralite Aluminum Pistons
-292/501 Comp Cam
-2.14/1.81 valves
-open port heads
-crank turned .010--.010
-2500 stall converter
-3.55 rear gears
-275/60R/15 BF Goodrich Drag Radial
-hooker headers (Jet Hot coated)
-Edelbrock 1406 carb
- MSD 6AL/Taylor wires/ Mopar Performance P3690431 Vacuum Advance Distributor
-MGK sparkplugs with .035 gap
- Usually a 104 octane boost or at least premium 93 octane gas
-727 3 speed auto w/ manual valve body trans rebuilt by J.W. Performance after gov blew hole in tail shaft
-JW Auto trans racing fluid
-Master Overhaul Kit w/ Intermediate Power Pack
-Street/Strip Performance Kit
-Spring/Roller Kit
-Reverse Servo Springs
-Stainless Pump Rings
-Wide Drum Bushing
-Output Shaft Washer/Bronze
-FWD manual valve body
-deep alum pan
-Full round wheel flex plate
-TCI transmission cooler Coil size: 3/4''h x 7-1/2''w x 12-1/2''l.

Problems I'm having right now:

-Won't start driving out in low gear until trans hits 150 degrees/ I put it in 1st gear but it stays in second/shifts into 3rd fine/ works normal after hitting 150 degrees even if it falls below 150 degrees. Just needs to hit that hot once per day.

- Mild pinging in second gear when going up slight inclines

- Almost dies when you barely push gas pedal down then suddenly takes off

- At idle the ammeter fluxes from neutral to Charge/I can hear the fuel pump with the same wavering tone. Not sure if it is cam idle or what.

-When I get on it seems like there is oil coming from the round chrome breather on the RH valve cover. There's a hot oil burning smell. Not sure if it is running on the header from there or not.

I'm still learning so if you can think of anything for these problems or if you see anything in the picks that should be adjusted fixed let me know. I just finished putting the Sidewinder shifter, new carpet, and repainting all the side panels in interior. Thanks for any help.
Attached Images

 

[fatecaptured]

Edelbrock 1406 carb seem like a pretty small a small carb for that application. I would thing .035 gap is a little close on the plug, maybe try .040. 4.56 rear gears that seems pretty low. But hey idk i'm learning as i go too. Good thread. Like the charger, looks like a twin to my rallye minus the rallye package

 

[dam130af]

I have a holley 670 street avenger I could put on it also. Is this a better or option or about the same?

 

[fatecaptured]

what compression are you running? is it std bore? there is a cfm calculator link http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html

has it always ran this way since u installed the new trans?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Make sure trans fluid level is good. Check at full operating temp, at idle in neutral.
Does it burn a lot of oil? If you are getting a lot of blowby that can cause oil to come out of the breather. Could be a faulty pcv system too. That could also give you the pinging. Check that first
Check your accelerator pump for the hesitation when getting on throttle.
At idle, mopars usually have low alternator output. Smaller pulley would help by spinning it faster.

 

[RustyRatRod]

"open port heads" Explain that please.

You never specified crank stroke or cubic inches. You never gave compression ratio. From your description, it sounds like you bought the car this way? Just seems like some of the terms you use are somewhat vague as if you might not be sure yourself. Can you give a specific part number piston or head casting number?

Right off, I tend to agree 4.56 gears and that mild cam and converter certainly don't match up too well. Carburetor does seem small. Are you sure about the gears or is that what somebody just told you?

 

[dam130af]

I'm not sure of the crank stroker or cubic inches. I'm not sure of the openport heads. That's just what they had when I bought it. Where would I look to get a head cast number? I talked to my dad (he had it for a few years while I was stationed over seas) and he put 3.55 (or somewhere close) gears in rear. I put a carb kit in recently also. Not sure if that matters for the accelerator pump or not. Would the holley 670 be a better option? I've shaken the PCV check valve and everything. Did the blow and suck test on it. Is there something else to do or check? Trans fluid is always good. Doesn't seem to burn any oil and as for a compression test, not sure. I've been meaning to check it but with all the deployments it's kind of a pick and choose thing on what to get done. I was just told it was a 400 stroker so I kind of have to assume on some stuff. Thanks for all the help.

 

[HT413]

Head casting # is under the valve cover. If its a stroker, i guess the most poular one is 452 where you use a 440 crank and turn down the mains so it fits. Funny, i was told my 413 is a stroker too, i may check that, i may not. Doesnt matter too much to me, not racing it.

 

[dam130af]

I'm assuming that's the case since they said the crank was turned 10/10 and it seems like they said it had 440 guts. Who knows though.

 

[HT413]

Btw, an easy way to measure approx stroke is remove a spark plug and stick a metal hanger in w the piston at btc. Mark w a marker and then move piston to tdc and remark. If you do it right and keep the hanger pretty parallel to clinder wall you should get enough accuracy to see if it's 3.75" vs, say a 4+ inch stoke or the stock 3.375" stroke.

I dont know of any good way to measure bore besides pulling the heads because while stroke has to be some fixed # (they only make certain strokes and they're all 1/8" or 1/4" apart or so) bore could be almost anything and might vary by only a few thousanths.

 

[dam130af]

I'll try that tomorrow and hook a compression gauge up also. Maybe pull a valve cover to see if there's any stamps also. Thanks.

 

[RustyRatRod]

HT413 gave you a great trick. Give that a shot and let us know what you find. If it's a stroker, it'll certainly use more than a 600 CFM carburetor.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I'll try that tomorrow and hook a compression gauge up also. Maybe pull a valve cover to see if there's any stamps also. Thanks.

If you pull a valve cover, do the one with the breather in it.see if there is a baffle beneath it. Not that you need to pull the valve cover to do that. Just pop the breather out and look. If you see rocker arms then their isn't a baffle.
As far as the trans goes, if the fluid checks ok, then im afraid there is some internal issue.
It could be "morning sickness". A condition where the rubber seals are old and hard and don't seal well until the fluid warms up. But usually you dont see that in summer. It wouldnt hurt to change the fluid and put in some conditioner. This is about the only time i would recommend a "fix in a bottle" type of product. There should be several to choose from in any major chain parts store. It might work, it might not, depending on whats really wrong. But worth a shot.

 

[dam130af]

The heads have a tag with 3000 on it. There is a big number 11 a small 23 and a big capital G stamped inside randomly also. And yes there is a baffle under the breather. I just looked harder there is a 6234 on the intake runner.

 

[fatecaptured]

I don't recognize any of those numbers. There should be 7 numbers in a row. The last three of the seven are the identifying numbers.

Example:4006452 =(452's), 2780915 = (915's), 2843906 = (906's)

There are some 14 different possible cast iron factory heads for big blocks not including the "Stage V" mopar performance heads.

I just went a looked at my 906's. Their still setting on my bench. Now Rocker arms or shafts could be covering up your casting number, IDK.

But here's what i seen:
1). On the Drivers side head. The casting "2843906-70" was on the second intake runner from what would be the front of the car.
2). Passengers side head. The casting "2843906" was on the third intake runner towards what would be the rear of the car.

Hope this helps some. I'm guessing you have 346's, but thats if they are what was originally on the 400.

I would think all said, that you would need a minimum of 750 cfm. Good luck and it could be sweet to find out you got a stroker motor (451). I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

 

[dam130af]

I've looked everywhere on those heads except under them of course. Could they be some type of after market heads since they have the weird stamps? Since the valve cover is off, do I need to remove the baffle that is under the breather like Hemi Rebel was talking about?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

No no. Leave the baffle on.

 

[dam130af]

Those numbers were on the passenger side 3rd intake runner. Here are the numbers from the drivers side second intake runner.

 

[fatecaptured]

looks like 346's(3462346) my man. They came out in 71 for emissions and have a flatter intake port. Not a bad head, but it is stock iron, not aftermarket.

Yeah the baffles keep or reduce the oil from being sucked out the breathers/pcv valve.

 

[dam130af]

Yeah. Is it safe to assume they still put the 2.14/1.81 valves in there? And I checked my carb. It is actually a Edelbrock 1407 instead of a 1406.