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Balancer ID Help please? Part # 83184-8-074

Randall Miller

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Location
Findlay, Ohio
I bought my new to me 68 Coronet RT when it was down pouring outside so didn't get a test drive. I don't think it would've sold to anyone the way I got it. No top end power. Fuel pump rod was 1/4 worn. Resolved....better but still issues.

I'm doing battle with timing. It was set up w 42 degrees at idle w a pinned distributor (locked out w no advance) and no vacuum advance hooked up. It was weird and acts weird.

I've undone this and it runs better and worse.

Degreeing the cam is on my radar but thought I'd ask if anyone can ID the balancer that is on the front of this 1966 440 that is in it.

83184-8-074. Seems to be 7" and is drilled.

I don't see this number on the 440 Source page.

Thank you


20240211_134944.jpg
 
Sure looks like the stock balancer that came with that engine. Can't comment on the #s, I've never had to decode a stock forged crank balancer.
 
Well that's a good start. Thank you. I was hoping to find the timing marks are wrong. It doesn't get 10 inches of vacuum until 40 degrees initial. 15 degrees at idle sits about 5" of vacuum and a marginal idle. I haven't heard spark knock and it cranks easy everywhere. Am still hopefully it's a weird balancer
 
What the heck? First, your balancer looks correct as mentioned. Since I doubt it would start at 42 degrees advanced, that makes me think the timing marks are off somehow (bad rubber inside balancer shifting the mark???) Also, you Will definitely need to get a basic Mopar electronic ignition or points distributor. That low vacuum sounds like vacuum leaks and you might consider rebuilding the carburetor if the car hasn’t been driven in a while…and a new fuel filter
 
Thanks. I went all in w an MSD ready to run dizzy and the whole deck of cards....wires, coil and ground the aluminum Eddy heads to install it. Pretty sure me and this balancer are going to part ways
 
If you could find another balancer somehow, you could index them together to see if it's off or not.
 
Don’t know your intentions with your car, but should be neutral balance crank, if indeed forged. Buy a damper from a reputable source and start from there. Your family, and your competitors
in the opposing lane will thank you.
Spinning a 50+ year damper to 6K is scary in my opinion. Unless you’re going for a 100 point resto, ditch the OEM damper, and flywheel, if 4 speed.
 
You're right man. Thank you. I'd already decided to order from Summit tomorrow. It's an auto. I never really considered how a balancer can walk on its ring and as you point out, fly. I'll take my current timing before I pull it and see where it lands thereafter w a new one
 
Well it can't " fly off and kill everyone". It can slip backwards and rub on the TC cover. I've had to pry one back on for a national dragster challenge final. But that was a 7400 rpm deal.
Anyway. New is good.
 
Update. Thw part number I listed seems to be the outer balancer number (part of the 2 piece steel part) and one of the traditional balancer numbers could be found when it was removed. Furthermore, I got a new one and the old one had not slipped. I am still running the new one for safety sake

Last thing, my issue was an incorrectly installed timing set. I found a thread where this was discussed. Maybe this will help someone.

The obvious large dot that looks like the one on the cam gear on the crank gear is NOT the correct one. It is the small dot on the outer edge of the gear.

I did not build this engine. It actually did run and the previous owner pinned the distributor at 42 degrees. It was however sluggish. Correct installment shown. Notice the keyway near 2 o-clock and the big crank dot rolled off to the right. My thumb in the crank gear pic is pointing at the small dot that should be used for a straight up installment

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