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My project 66

I went through same issue with those. They are all incorrect back there. From wheel arch to tail (approx).
 
Im talking with the people I bought them from.. Apparently they make these in house.. And are not Sherman products. Im working with them and hoping they correct the issue. They could be relabeled Shermans but it says made in the USA on the back.
 
They're made in detroit. Classic to classic industries. Whoever it is, they're way off.
 
Might as well. I will say when I called and told them the situation, he refunded my total amount and let me keep the quarter. I thought was really stand up.
 
I have been sending the pictures they ask for and made a couple videos. I have everything lined up as it should be. I guess they cant understand that the lines taper towards the back. Here is a Sox and Martin launch picture you can see it plain as day. My tape line being as staight as I could make it is even wrong. But its hard to get that slight curve in the tape.

ronnie-sox.jpg
 
Well i have moved on until I can get some info from them guys. I started pulling the rusted trunk pan. Well I got pretty far in 2 hours. Here are some pictures from the process.

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They sent me my money back for the panels.. And no mention of sending them back or if they plan on fixing the error. So I guess Ill have to chop them up to make them work with the car. I wanted to give them a chance to correct their sheetmetal. I guess refunding money is easier than just moving the line up 1 3/8 of an inch on one end.
 
They sent me my money back for the panels.. And no mention of sending them back or if they plan on fixing the error. So I guess Ill have to chop them up to make them work with the car. I wanted to give them a chance to correct their sheetmetal. I guess refunding money is easier than just moving the line up 1 3/8 of an inch on one end.
Glad to hear it, I think.
 
Started to make some of the small stuff I need to tie it all back together.. So I bought some steel from Home Depot and made the first 2 pieces. Tomorrow I will make the pieces I need to repair the major rust and graft it into place.

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Picked up some sweet TTI Headers.. May not make it into the car though. They are 440-178 headers. Pretty decent shape and have a small area that was "massaged" for clearance. May just end up swapping them for parts I need for the Belle. They are I believe the TTi 440-178C4
CERAMIC COATED with a thermal barrier
Silver matte finish.

TTI440-178_b.jpg
 
Again, there are two different panels available and one is a MUCH better stamping.

From the up close shots, it looks like you got the bad one.

The "bad" panel appears very flat, while the "better" one has much more of the correct contour where it rolls under, and the wheel lip is done better, not squared off.
 
I was looking at some others.. I asked the seller a question but they havent replied yet. I spoke to a guy yesterday who does restorations and collision repair. This is the guy I got the TTI headers from. I told him about my panels. First thing he said was C2C panels.. He said yup bad. So I assume the "Other Panels" you speak of are the Sherman panels..
 
Can you guys link me to the better of the 2? I keep finding only partial panels.. here are my TTI headers.

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Borrowed a long *** metal brake and started working on those panels.. I made some progress with removing the old body line. Hammered out the old line on a long 6x6 post and then rebent the lines to what I think is needed. Maybe Im wrong but if I am I can now cut it off in the new flattened out area and work on that.


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Anyone know If I can use 68 to 70 outer wheel houses to repair my rusted ones?
 
I don't think. I thought I heard somewhere that pieces from a 67-9 Dart could be pieced in with mods. But don't quote me.
 
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