Need advise on hydr lifter and push rod

[Ray70Chrg]

I'm trying to hunt down lifter noise. I've already used the procedure where you start at #1 tdc and check a ex.rod on another cyl.and a int. rod on yet another cyl. then rotate crank 90 deg. and continue with checking rods from other cyls. Cyl. 8 on my engine came up with both rods having up & down play. One having about 2x play than the other. Attached are photos of rod and lifter from the exh.side. I'm

completely new at going this deep into an engine and don't know if these are good or not. The rod seems to be approximately the correct Length (8.6xx)inches. I don't have calipers to measure exactly and it to appears to be straight, however both ends are rounded and shiny metal. The lifter could not be pushed in while it sat in its bore. The top of the lifter is concave where the bottom of rod sits. The bottom of the lifter is completely flat, no wear is evident. Can't give you any history if they have been replaced or not. Any comments would be appreciated.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Keep in mind If you don't put the lifters back in the same hole they came out of they need to be tossed...pushrod don't really matter.
If a lifter is ticking it's likely a internal problem you wont visually see. Its collapsing, that may be what's going on w #8. Many times exhaust leaks and a lifter ticking sound the same even to the most experienced.
They don't look 2 fresh, looks like they have been in there for a long time looking at the color difference on the lifter body.

 

[747mopar]

^^^ Lifter noise and exhaust manifold leaks sounds damn near identical, I would definitely rule out an exhaust leak. When you say "up and down play" is that free play or you easily being able to compress the lifter spring?

 

[Don Frelier]

I think you are on the right track.
The lifters are likely collapsed, you should be able to push down and see the cup in the lifter move up and down a bit.
A good check for rods is to roll them on a very flat surface. A tablesaw top or a granite countertop are usually a good check.
I used to dissemble and clean lifters but these days I'm lazy and have more money for parts. (Thank God)
Hopefully the passages arent' getting plugged.
I would suggest buying a few from Summit or another vendor or your choosing, maybe a few extras along with some assembly lube.
Put it back together and run it for 15-20 minutes between 1,500 and 2,500 RPM. Let it cool down and then drive it.
Always use oil with a good amount of Zinc!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-ht2011/make/chrysler

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Take to heart what Curious said, If you don't put those back in the exact hole they came out of, toss'em.

 

[Don Frelier]

I wouldn't put them back in I'd contemplate replacing the whole set.

 

[toolmanmike]

And there have been a lot of issues with Comp Cams lifters. I would choose another brand.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Thanks to all for your inputs. I am aware of the exhaust ticking noise sometimes being very misleading. also, that's the only lifter I have removed and will put it back in its bore and continue to examine the others one at a time. The blue tape on the rod indicates that it's the top. Don, thanks for the heads up on the lifter should have a small amount of travel when pressed. I didn't know what to expect with the lifter. To 747 mopar, I meant free play. I could lift the 2 rods up and have it drop down to the lifter.

 

[Ernie ingling]

From the pic that lifter is collapsed. Cup should be flush with retaining clip. My 70 yr eyes may not be seeing so well

 

[PRHeads]

The lifter does not appear collapsed to me.
I have a new one here, it’s just like your pic.

If the motor is using stock stamped rockers, I’d say the pushrods are just too short.

If it has an adjustable valvetrain, it needs adjusting.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Just pulled all 8 lifters from the right side and I cannot push the center section down on any one of them. I am using a pushrod in the middle top of the lifter on the work bench using my body weight to try and depress the lifter and none of them will budge. What does that tell me ? Thanks. Just some more info. this car sat idle in a garage for 15 years, I got it 4 1/2 years ago, got engine running about a month later, put it on the road 1year ago but never had above 3200 rpm in the next 800+ miles. It has stock rockers. All rockers are in good shape. All rods are straight.

 

[khryslerkid]

When the lifter is on the back side of the cam lobe you should have at least .020 gap between the wire clip and the top of the cup/piston.

(Picture swiped from PR Heads :^)

Check for this. Also you could remove the clip and remove the piston and clean things up some. There could be a piece of dirt in there preventing a seal. There's another small piece inside so pay attention how it's oriented.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Thanks khryslerkid, Checked all 8 and the inner sleeve is pressed against the retainer wire on all of them and none them will move down. Since I'll probably be replacing them, I took a flat nosed punch and hit it a hammer several times and it still didn't move. Is it common for all 8 to be frozen like this and do you think this has severely worn the cam.

 

[Don Frelier]

The lifters are likely collapsed downward and not returning to the "up" position.
That's why pressing down they don't move.

If they are flat and smooth on the bottom the cam is likely fine

 

[dadsbee]

As others noted they are easy to take apart, clean, reassemble and pump back up/test in a drill press using a push rod and a spray can cap full of oil.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Took 2 of them apart. Cleaned out the oil inside. now both of them are free to be pushed down and spring returns them to the top. Put them back together again and cylinder returns to spring clip. It seems that's the way they work. No .020 gap between spring clip and cylinder. The spring clip is the top stop for the cylinder. Should the holes on the outer and inner cylinders line up ? Should the lifters be put in a container of oil to prime them ? Thanks again for all this very useful info. I guess the 15 years in garage kind of froze the lifters in the up position.

 

[khryslerkid]

If they have oil in them it's very hard to push them down. I don't think you have to worry about the hole orientation.

The .020 between the piston and clip is when the pushrod is seated in the lifter and the rocker and cam lobe is on the back side. .020 is minimum. I'm thinking .050 is factory.

Do you have stamped or adjustable rockers?

 

[Ray70Chrg]

stamped. When I opened the lifters there was some oil in them, not filled up to the bottom of inner cylinder. It seems that those lifters should have had some movement. The other 6 that I didn't open yet have no hint of moving. Thanks

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Hey Khryslerkid, I tried opening another lifter and left the oil in the lifter and when I pushed down on it, it was much harder to compress then the dry lifters I had emptied. well I'll just continue to inspect the other bank and see how they look. Thanks for all your help.

 

[khryslerkid]

If you're going to try and reuse them or if you buy new ones, install a couple without oiling the inside and mock up the rockers and pushrods to them. Rotate to get the cam on the back side and check the "preload". That's the .020 to .050 that I've talked about from the piston to the retaining clip.

Closely inspect the noisy one you have for dirt and also for scaring. Anything that might contribute to it not making a good seal when in operation.

Good luck.