Need Help Getting a firm pedal

[GageGtx]

Are all the bleeder screws at the highest point on the calipers?
If not you will never get all the air out.

This seems to have solved the problem so far.
Thank you very much. I never would have thought of this.

 

[GageGtx]

Ok so all is well when the car isn't running. Soon as I start it the pedal goes right to the floor

 

[steve340]

Try clamping the hoses like I suggested before.

 

[GageGtx]

Try clamping the hoses like I suggested before.

I will head out and do that tonight for sure. Thanks

 

[steve340]

Start by clamping all three hoses. This will test the master cylinder and any possible issue in the booster.

 

[AR67GTX]

I believe a 1” master was used for both PB and MB in 67. It should work fine. My recently overhauled drum PB on my 67 GTX are overly sensitive at low speeds if anything. But I have a Midland booster so can’t comment on Bendix.

 

[RemCharger]

Ok so all is well when the car isn't running. Soon as I start it the pedal goes right to the floor

I agree with the hose clamp method,, but as well, the pedal will be naturally softer until the brakes are worn in a bit.

 

[GageGtx]

I do have a question tho. Do I need to keep the factory proportioning valve if I installed a pv2 combination valve??
Here's a pic of the combination valve I installed along with the adjusting valve

 

[GageGtx]

I agree with the hose clamp method,, but as well, the pedal will be naturally softer until the brakes are worn in a bit.

I'm just heading to the shop to attemptt the hose clamp method

 

[R/T Boy 67]

You only want one proportioning valve in the rear brake system. The adjustable one would be best, but only use one or the other.

 

[GageGtx]

You only want one proportioning valve in the rear brake system. The adjustable one would be best, but only use one or the other.

You’re referring to the PV2 valve? That’s the one I have installed the other one I don’t I was just curious.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

I forgot you have a four wheel disc system. You may find you don't need much, or any proportioning in the rear system. You will just have to try it. If your car was a drum brake car originally, I would use the original junction block and add an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear system. I wouldn't use the pv2 valve because the proportioning is not adjustable.

 

[GageGtx]

I forgot you have a four wheel disc system. You may find you don't need much, or any proportioning in the rear system. You will just have to try it. If your car was a drum brake car originally, I would use the original junction block and add an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear system. I wouldn't use the pv2 valve because the proportioning is not adjustable.

So maybe just gut that pv2 valve and use it as a junction block and put the factory proportioning valve back in?

 

[GageGtx]

So maybe just gut that pv2 valve and use it as a junction block and put the factory proportioning valve back in?

Nvmd I read that wrong. I got it now

 

[Aepowell]

I added the power brake setup from a 82 New Yorker to my 65 Coronet and was never able to get a real firm pedal. I tried new calipers and master cylinder with no better results. It was a power brake setup.

 

[GageGtx]

I added the power brake setup from a 82 New Yorker to my 65 Coronet and was never able to get a real firm pedal. I tried new calipers and master cylinder with no better results. It was a power brake setup.

View attachment 1880061

I have tried everything to my knowledge with no luck. Brakes are firm but as soon as I start the engine...right to the floor. I have bled everything numerous times. I switched calipers so bleeders were all at the top.

 

[GageGtx]

It has to be something I have or haven't done. The all disc brakes worked fine until I redone the whole front suspension this past winter. Then I put a new dual diaphragm booster, master cylinder, single piston calipers in the front and slotted rotors and it hasn't been the same since

 

[RJ Squirrel]

My 69 Roadrunner has front disc/rear drum brakes. The proportion valve/ distribution block is mounted on the frame below the master cyl.
The stock routing of line for the front right side is up across the firewall and back down to the caliper. This routing creates a big high spot which undoubtably traps air. My pedal is spongy too after a few attempts at bleeding, and I have considered adding a bleeder to the high spot in this line.
What have others done to get the air out of this portion of the line?

 

[steve340]

What master do you have - needs to be disc/disc.

 

[GageGtx]

What master do you have - needs to be disc/disc.

I put the casting number in my first post