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Need help with guages please

Nope the guage says over full off and on even with wire off guage reads over full key on and off
Then the gauge sweep itself has a problem.
The normal position is to the left they're actuated to sweep right
 
Update: got my speedo working, just took cable off my parts car and swapped them. Speedometer is off thou and I think it’s due to the huge gear in the rear end. Think I’m just gonna swap out the pig. So just have 2 more to fix (gas/temp). Definitely wanna say Thank you for all the input everyone has gave me, VERY THANKFUL for this forum, it has really helped me in this process of completing my dream.
 
Then the gauge sweep itself has a problem.
The normal position is to the left they're actuated to sweep right
I have another cluster I think I will swap out the gas/volt. Just not right now lol I will just keep her full. I wanna enjoy some cruising time right now. Northern Michigan isn’t very giving on nice weather, it’s very short!
 
You didn't answer my question.
You can test the wire for ground with an ohmmeter
Another possibility since you have trouble with the other gauges is the voltage limiter is stuck on and not limiting (pulsing on and off like it is supposed to do).
A good idea to buy a solid state one from real time engineering and change it out but it takes a little electrical skill and you need to remove the whole
 
Update: I took the cluster apart and when I touched the orange dial for the gas gauge it popped back over to empty so I hooked it up and turned the key on and it slowly clicked over to almost half a tank I shut it off and it slowly clicked over to Empty I repeated that a couple times and kept getting the same results thanks again to everybody that has given me help I really appreciate it
 
Update: I took the cluster apart and when I touched the orange dial for the gas gauge it popped back over to empty so I hooked it up and turned the key on and it slowly clicked over to almost half a tank I shut it off and it slowly clicked over to Empty I repeated that a couple times and kept getting the same results thanks again to everybody that has given me help I really appreciate it
Nice but I would still recommend replacing the voltage limiter.
 
Great that all your EL lighting works. Thats usually not the case.. The speedometer is indeed a totally mechanical device, driven from the transmission with rotation sent up the mechanical cable to the rear of the speedometer gauge. To narrow down the issue, you would need to disconnect the speedo cable at the rear of the gauge , take a drive and see if you get rotation on the innards of that speedo cable from the tranny. If not, problem is likely in the tranny. If you get rotation, it's likely a defective speedo indicator gauge.
In a 66, the tach sender is a 4" round can with screw terminals, located under/near/behind the dash glove box. In an un-molested car the open-closing cycles of the mechanical points from the 12 V. side of the ignition coil goes to the sender can which translates those pulses to a variable signal sent to the tach indicator gauge. Problem here could be associated wiring, defective tach sender can, or a bad tach indicator gauge.
In these cars, the oil pressure, temperature and fuel gauges all operate off the output of a 5 Volt MECHANICAL thermal regulator device, which for a stock un-molested car is located INSIDE the fuel gauge. One terminal of those 3 gauges mentioned is sent a full 12 volts on startup for a few seconds to get the gauges moving. Once the car is running for a few seconds, the voltage to the 3 gauges changes to a slowly pulsating approximate +5 volt DC potential. The other terminal of those gauges goes to the respective senders which provide a variable resistance to chassis ground (- 12 VDC ). Again, you could have a wiring issue or defective regulator. If you disconnect the respective sender and short to the sender wire to ground MOMENTARILY, respective gauge should show maximum deflection.
A defective 5 V regulator can burn up / damage the coils in one or all of the 3 gauges mentioned. Interesting that the gas gauge is at full, is your tank full ? If you disconnect the wire at the tank sender, the gas gauge should indicate to totally empty. You need to narrow down what the cause of the problem is. Schematics and a service manual is a big help. Reproduced manuals are available on E bay. Retrofittable solid state regulators and tach senders are available here : MOPAR Products Good luck with it..
SO.... Here's one, 69 Roadrunner, temp guage worked fine, until I unplugged bulkhead connector, (I knew that wasnt good idea) whole harness needs replaced soon as I have time, anyway temp guage WILL WORK when I touch tip of the old school 1 bulb 12 probe type tester (connected to BATT NEG) to the Violet wire at bulkhead, remove tester, guage goes back down.. Assuming its entire harness, out of curiosity, why would guage go up when tester point inserted into "J" pid in the 8 way connection?
Thanks in advance!!
 
The SENDERS for fuel, temperature and oil pressure supply are simply resistive devices. They are basically "variable resistors". One side of the respective gauges typically gets a pulsating + 5 volts DC from the gauges voltage regulator. The other side of the respective gauge gets a varying ground ( -12 Volt ) from the sender of which is grounded thru the engine block or other ground connection. The changing resistance of the sender changes the gauges reading. The gauge is basically measuring a current between the + 5 volts and ground THRU the senders resistance. From what you describe with the old school lamp tester, one side is connected to battery neg. ( - 12 Volts ) When you touch the probe to the gauge as you describe, the lead or wire to the gauge is seeing a ground THRU the test light bulb's filament which has some resistance thus acting as if a sender is connected.
 
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