Need info on 383 engine please

[Justasgood]

I need a little help with info on an engine I have a chance to buy. Block stamp is 2468130-2 and pad is stamped as pictured.

Date, Horsepower rating and thoughts on value would be appreciated.

Alleged to have only about 2000 miles.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

2468130 – 1959-1971, 383 B-series big-block

 

[Justasgood]

2468130 – 1959-1971, 383 B-series big-block

What about the numbers and info stamped on the pad by the distributor?

 

[RemCharger]

65 325hp?

 

[Justasgood]

65 325hp?

How do you derive this info?

 

[Justasgood]

Any idea why below the A383(1965 right?) it appears more numbers stamped? Looks like A440?
R stands for regular gas
And 12 18 would mean 12/18/1965?

How do you determine the HP rating?

Is this engine worth buying at $1200?

 

[RemCharger]

I don't know about the extra 440 marks but if it's an A motor it would be assembled late 64.
The 383 4 bbls were 325-330hp depending.
You never know what's inside but if you believe it would run, 1200 is a decent price.

 

[Justasgood]

Thanks to all for your help. Going to look at it this evening

 

[hunt2elk]

Maybe its just me, but without hearing it run or knowing who put it together with a list of parts, I would never pay 1200 for it. Unless you are a gambling man of course.

 

[Justasgood]

 

[Justasgood]

 

[RemCharger]

Looks fairly good and fresh... but there's definitely some monkyerey going on with the rockers and pushrods

 

[BSB67]

You do understand that the stamping on the motor has no bearing on what the motor is today, right?

Without documentation, total crap shoot.

 

[Justasgood]

Looks fairly good and fresh... but there's definitely some monkyerey going on with the rockers and pushrods

He took the the rocker arm off and just put it back on without concern for correctness. He has a HP 383 he will be putting in the 70 Charger. He was going to use some parts from this engine but decided not to. Solid gentleman with an award winning RR and he is building Charger for his wife.

 

[RemCharger]

He took the the rocker arm off and just put it back on without concern for correctness. He has a HP 383 he will be putting in the 70 Charger. He was going to use some parts from this engine but decided not to. Solid gentleman with an award winning RR and he is building Charger for his wife. View attachment 1529490

Ok but so you know, check whether the pushrods have one end smaller than the other. They've been flipped around.
And they may not

 

[Justasgood]

Ok but so you know, check whether the pushrods have one end smaller than the other. They've been flipped around.
And they may not

They do have a tapered end.

If I buy it, I will remove the heads to inspect and install new gaskets. The heads have double springs so joy sure if the cam is stock.

 

[RemCharger]

They do have a tapered end.

If I buy it, I will remove the heads to inspect and install new gaskets. The heads have double springs so joy sure if the cam is stock.

It's a Mopar purple shaft cam. Measure the lifter lift to find out which one

Also, you should check that the lifters are the correct size to match those tapered pushrods

 

[BeepBeepRR]

If you remove the heads and the engine was previously built you should take note of the head gaskets you pull off. As the thickness may be crucial to how the engine was built. Too thin and you may have some valve to piston clearance issues. But for sure I would remove the heads to check everything under them. When you remove the heads you can see what pistons are in it. Or if it has been previously bored out.

 

[Geoff 2]

Probably a good buy. Alum intake & 750 Edel carb alone would be a big chunk of the $1200. You can see through the dist hole, the wear mark on the lifter, so the engine has been running meaning lifters/prods are matched.