• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Need to find good tuner/mechanic/wrench - SE Michigan

kb73rr

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:39 AM
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
139
Reaction score
65
Location
Brighton, MI, USA
I've got a 73 RR, mild build 440, TTI headers, 750 Holley, etc. As far as I know it's all mechanically OK but I'm not convinced it's running as as good as it could. I don't really have much experience with tuning and I would prefer to have someone in the general area who really knows older big block Mopars to take a look at it. I'm a little north of Ann Arbor. Any suggestions or recommendations would be most appreciated!
 
Yeah, any suggestions at all would be most appreciated. I could really use some help. Thanks!!!
 
Wish I could help, but I'm east-side/thumb-area. Have you checked for any businesses that do dyno-tuning in your area? I dont know what your checkbook looks like, but if I had the cash, I would not hesitate to try it.
 
Thanks Scott. My checkbook hasn't taken a hit lately so that may be a good option. I did get a referral from a friend so if that doesn't pan out I'll try asking around at a couple local speed shops. Good idea.
 
tune up

Try Google for "Michigan Mopar Clubs" here is a link to one, I don't know how close they are to you. Most Mopar owners are eager to help one another.:yes:
http://www.michiganmoparmuscle.com/
Click on HOME when the link comes up.
 
I've got a 73 RR, mild build 440, TTI headers, 750 Holley, etc. As far as I know it's all mechanically OK but I'm not convinced it's running as as good as it could. I don't really have much experience with tuning and I would prefer to have someone in the general area who really knows older big block Mopars to take a look at it. I'm a little north of Ann Arbor. Any suggestions or recommendations would be most appreciated!

Are you looking to go faster or make it a better driver?
I'm no expert by any means but I've been playing with them for quite a few years & mine are pretty reliable drivers. I am in Pinckney and won't mind throwing my 2 cents in :)
You will be going to Milan this coming Sat. for the Mopar show/drag day? I'm sure you'll find a lot of expertise floating around there!
 
Thanks ARETEE! Actually I would like it to be as good of a driver as possible. And of course faster is great, but not at the sacrifice of driveability or reliability. The real problem is my lack of experience. I haven't driven other big block b-bodies so I don't know how it really should feel. Plus right now it's not running right.

Here's the sad story. A guy I know worked on the car last year. He's not a Mopar expert but is a good mechanic in general. He replaced the head gaskets, replaced the old headers with the TTIs, installed a new brake booster, hi-torque starter motor, and the 750 Holley (it had a Holley 600 before). The 750 Holley had an electric choke. It worked erratically so I had the guy set it full open for the time being. I had to pump the gas a couple times to get the car started. That was OK with me because the 600 didn't have a choke either. I was used to it. Once it warmed up for a few minutes it was fine. It idled good, didn't ping with 93 octane, didn't overheat, didn't load up in stop and go, didn't diesel, and seemed pretty fast for a 3 speed automatic with a 3:21 rear axle. I was happy with it.

Then earlier this year the car just died. No spark. Apparently it blew the ECU. The same guy who did all the work before convinced me that a MSD or Mallory would be better and cooler to have. I bought a new Mallory Unilite and took it back to him to put it on. Unfortunately I think that was a mistake. He altered the engine wiring harness (that bummed me out) and also the car hasn't felt right ever since. To me, it feels like my car is running very rich, or like there is a potato stuck up the tail pipe ha ha ha. Now for some reason it fires instantly even when stone cold (no pumping required), and just feels rich at all throttle positions. At x-way speeds the engine kind of surges, and during stop and go gridlock at the Dream Cruise it felt like it was loading up and stalled a couple times. It was better after getting back to highway speeds, but still feels loaded up all the time. The guy drove the car a little and said it felt OK to him. He assured me the timing was spot on and he didn't touch the carb. I marked the distributor and tried advancing and retarding it a little and got no improvement either way. Actually both made it worse. It's set back where he had it now.

So I bought a whole new stock ignition (MP conversion kit for points system, includes ECU, distributor, and ballast resistor) and ordered a new engine harness from YearOne. The harness was on backorder for 7 weeks and so the Mallory ignition is still on the car. Last week the YearOne engine harness finally came in. This weekend I am going to put the harness in and put the whole ignition back to stock. I've got a buddy coming over to help me switch the distributor and set the timing. Hopefully that will get it running at least like the way it was before. However, I still would really appreciate the opinion of someone with more Mopar experience and I would absolutely welcome your two cents. It would be great to know how it compares to other similarly set-up 440s, or if there is something that just wrong or I should do to make it better. How about if I PM you next week after the ignition stuff is all back to normal?

Also thanks for the heads-up about Milan this Saturday. I didn't know about it and I'll try to make it for a while. Last fall I just missed the last few Weds Test-n-Tune days due to some brake problems. Once this present issue is resolved I hope to get there to see what it runs.

Thanks again ARETEE!
 
Thanks ARETEE! Actually I would like it to be as good of a driver as possible. And of course faster is great, but not at the sacrifice of driveability or reliability. The real problem is my lack of experience. I haven't driven other big block b-bodies so I don't know how it really should feel. Plus right now it's not running right.

Here's the sad story. A guy I know worked on the car last year. He's not a Mopar expert but is a good mechanic in general. He replaced the head gaskets, replaced the old headers with the TTIs, installed a new brake booster, hi-torque starter motor, and the 750 Holley (it had a Holley 600 before). The 750 Holley had an electric choke. It worked erratically so I had the guy set it full open for the time being. I had to pump the gas a couple times to get the car started. That was OK with me because the 600 didn't have a choke either. I was used to it. Once it warmed up for a few minutes it was fine. It idled good, didn't ping with 93 octane, didn't overheat, didn't load up in stop and go, didn't diesel, and seemed pretty fast for a 3 speed automatic with a 3:21 rear axle. I was happy with it.

Then earlier this year the car just died. No spark. Apparently it blew the ECU. The same guy who did all the work before convinced me that a MSD or Mallory would be better and cooler to have. I bought a new Mallory Unilite and took it back to him to put it on. Unfortunately I think that was a mistake. He altered the engine wiring harness (that bummed me out) and also the car hasn't felt right ever since. To me, it feels like my car is running very rich, or like there is a potato stuck up the tail pipe ha ha ha. Now for some reason it fires instantly even when stone cold (no pumping required), and just feels rich at all throttle positions. At x-way speeds the engine kind of surges, and during stop and go gridlock at the Dream Cruise it felt like it was loading up and stalled a couple times. It was better after getting back to highway speeds, but still feels loaded up all the time. The guy drove the car a little and said it felt OK to him. He assured me the timing was spot on and he didn't touch the carb. I marked the distributor and tried advancing and retarding it a little and got no improvement either way. Actually both made it worse. It's set back where he had it now.

So I bought a whole new stock ignition (MP conversion kit for points system, includes ECU, distributor, and ballast resistor) and ordered a new engine harness from YearOne. The harness was on backorder for 7 weeks and so the Mallory ignition is still on the car. Last week the YearOne engine harness finally came in. This weekend I am going to put the harness in and put the whole ignition back to stock. I've got a buddy coming over to help me switch the distributor and set the timing. Hopefully that will get it running at least like the way it was before. However, I still would really appreciate the opinion of someone with more Mopar experience and I would absolutely welcome your two cents. It would be great to know how it compares to other similarly set-up 440s, or if there is something that just wrong or I should do to make it better. How about if I PM you next week after the ignition stuff is all back to normal?

Also thanks for the heads-up about Milan this Saturday. I didn't know about it and I'll try to make it for a while. Last fall I just missed the last few Weds Test-n-Tune days due to some brake problems. Once this present issue is resolved I hope to get there to see what it runs.

Thanks again ARETEE!

You're doing just what I'd do, I'm not a fan of MSD units; bummer on the wiring harness!
Sat. I'm taking a '66 300 for the show, low milage original beast. PM me before the weekend if you want to try to meet up there, or next week is fine as well.
 
Try Google for "Michigan Mopar Clubs" here is a link to one, I don't know how close they are to you. Most Mopar owners are eager to help one another.:yes:
http://www.michiganmoparmuscle.com/
Click on HOME when the link comes up.

Good suggestion about Michigan Mopar Muscle rdrunner1974, especially coming from Vermont! Thanks and best wishes from Michigan.
 
I just seen this post. I live in Brighton and could probably help you. I'm also a member of Michigan Mopar Muscle. I'll PM you my number.
 
You might want to get a set of springs and weights for that distributer too. A good timing light with the degree dial can be very helpful when dialing in your dist. You can get your baseline timing, adjust spring / weight combos for mechanical advance, and finaly adjust your vac pot for full vacuum advance.
One other things would be to measure your vacuum at idle then buy your Holley power valve a couple inches of vac lower than your idle vac readings. This will enable you to be in the power cicuit of the carb when it's needed...
Get your self a compression tester and take some accurate readings. Mark them all down and compare. Another good test of cyl / valve condition is to perform a leak down test, or just just put air in each cyl ot TDC on compression stroke and listen for air leaking out exhaust or intake. This could show bad valves, if you hear it in the intake,,, your intake valve leaks,,,, if you hear it out the exhaust,,, yep you guessed it, the exhaust valve leaks. Another thing to watch would be for bubbles in the radiator while performing this test. If you see bubbles you have a head gasket leaking...
Just a few ideas for ya,,, Hope it helps!!

Jim
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top