New floorpan

[prhousejr]

I got all the interior out of my 68 satty. Seats, carpet, console, all out. Floor looks pretty good overall with mostly surface rust. The only part I am going to replace is the front drivers floor. It has a hole about the size of a softball. Frame under bad part is good. So what I am going to do is replace the whole front drivers floorpan. Bought a new one off of......you guessed it, EBAY. It is a really nice piece for 100 bucks. After I get the floor welded back in, what would you all do? As far as the surface rust goes...... Rustoleum paint? Daily driver, not a show car plus I have new carpet for it. Should all the surface rust be sanded down to bare metal or is there a rust inhibiting paint I can use? One more question......The insides of the car are maroon. New seats, headliner, dash all maroon....I am not crazy about maroon. All this stuff being new tho I cant think about changing it... So I boaught black carpet. I am going to redo the console and kick panels in black, what do yall think???? I already have the black carpet, but it is unopened. Will it be to much going on or will the maroon/black work together? I know it is all about personal preference, but just wanting opinions.......:edgy:

 

[detmatt1]

As far as a coating for your new floorpan, por (paint over rust) 15, or Eastwood has an equivalent that I use called Rust encapsulator. Hit up the Eastwood site for more info.
As far as black and maroon goes, it sounds like it could be tasteful and I would do it and then post pics so the rest of us can see it.

 

[prhousejr]

As far as a coating for your new floorpan, por (paint over rust) 15, or Eastwood has an equivalent that I use called Rust encapsulator. Hit up the Eastwood site for more info.
As far as black and maroon goes, it sounds like it could be tasteful and I would do it and then post pics so the rest of us can see it.

thanks man.....will do.

 

[snakeoil24]

Floor pan install. First thing get your self a spot weld cutter bit. then measure the new pan and cut out the old floor 1.5 inches smaller than the outer edde of the new patch pan. Once you have done this measure the opening 3 more times. Why? if you make a mistake. Then get yourself a 3m Scotch brite pad and scuff the electro plating if the pan is black. Scuff the floor till it is dulll. Set it aside and then drill out all the spot welds in the old floor pan area. After this is done using an abrasive disc cut the pan area out. make sure you take a few pictures. Once you have the old section removed, also make sure you do not cut into the supports under the pan. Now go buy your self a cheap hand heald media blaster and blast the frame supports. Once this is done vacuum out inside the frame rails for all dust. Next step is to grind flat all the spot welds marks on the frame. After your done spray all spots with Weld Thru Primer. Now lay the new pan in the car and lay weights in the corners and cethers not too heavy. When this is done take a can of white spray paint and get under the car and mist the floor. This will give you an outline where the pan should be.

Take the pan out and reinsert it. Look under the car and make sure the new pan lines up. Now you have to flange the old floor that is still good. with a air or manual flanger. You can make one from vise grips if your bold. take the pan out and punch the pan from under where the frame lined up with the flats of the unibody frame. Remember with Chrysler Unibody cars the most important place to check for fit and proper install is the torsion bar mount and the rocker panels. The pan should fit close without much force. I wiuld mig the floor in with a clean gass welding. avoid using flux core mig welding. They rust from the flux. Punch your holes approximately weher the old spoit welds are located only after you surely have the pan positioned right. A few screws then check underside for fit. Plug weld the floor inplace. Do not try to weld the pan completely all the way around. The factory expects some give and take. With Unibody this flex is normal even if not perfect. After you are all done welding the floor in get some aluminum enriched bridge primer. Sold at Sherwin Williams. it is 1/2 the price of Por 15 and is as rugged as por 15. The Eastwood product is not the same rockhard product like por 15 or Sherwin williams bridge primer. All these new paints starve the surface of oxygen with hi tec urethans that where used by the navy and painted on bridges. Warm a small amount of the paint before using it. Do not put it on cold metal. If it is room temprature it will suck right in between the uni frame and new pan and you will have a better weather seal.

Regards,

Steve

 

[Boomhauer]

I'd hit it with Ospho before you do any painting or priming. My understanding is it chemically changes the rust to an inert status, this way you don't have to worry about it coming back later. I Just coated my trunk pan with it before I primed and painted it. I applied it with a paint brush, but you can use a spray gun if you want. Here's the link :

http://www.ospho.com/