NEW MEMBER '69 Charger R/T Power BRAKE Booster issues

[Bcumbee]

Ok. I have a 69 charger w power front disc, rear drum setup. I purchased new calipers, upper lines, master cylinder and brake booster from inline tube. I've installed. Bled several times, including bench bleed on MS, however i had to change my calipers twice and the chamber ran empty for a min, i filled before touching the pedal (could i need another bench bleed). No leaks. The new booster was a really tight fit in firewall.

I have no pedal. I have pressure when I bleed and get good fluid with no bubbles. Engine off - after 1 press of the pedal its stiff, while holding I start Engine and pedal falls to floor. Engine running - pull check valve and have great suction and RPMs drop.

My booster makes an odd sound, like a squish or suction when Engine running and pedal reaches the bottom.
Can my linkage be wrong, could it be the tight clearance in the firewall... its killing me. I've wanted this car for 20+ years and I got it a couple months ago. I've done a ton to it and this last thing is stopping me from cruising. PLEASE help. No bad ideas.

 

[toolmanmike]

Welcome to FBBO. You may get better action on your brake problem by starting a thread in the brake section. Nice Charger.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Sounds like a defective vacuum booster.

 

[Bcumbee]

Welcome to FBBO. You may get better action on your brake problem by starting a thread in the brake section. Nice Charger.

Thank you!! Is there a way to transfer or do I just copy and reopen under brakes?

 

[pnora]

Sounds like a defective vacuum booster.

He still should have a pedal. The booster is just an assist.

 

[pnora]

1-Make sure the booster to master push rod is adjusted correctly.
2- Bench bleed the master and make sure you are fully bleeding both chambers.
3- Make sure the pads are seating correctly.
4-Make sure the caliper bleeders are on top.
5-Make sure the rear is adjusted correctly.
6- Start with a gravity bleed one wheel at a time. Do all 4.
7- Have an assistant and pressure bleed one wheel at a time.
All steps followed you should have brakes.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

Welcome from North Florida !!!
Nice looking Charger.
Did the brakes work when you bought it or is this a problem that just happened after you worked on the brakes?

 

[toolmanmike]

Thank you!! Is there a way to transfer or do I just copy and reopen under brakes?

I will move it for you because the discussion has started.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Welcome from Alabama, nice Charger, brakes or no brakes.

 

[Bcumbee]

Welcome from North Florida !!!
Nice looking Charger.
Did the brakes work when you bought it or is this a problem that just happened after you worked on the brakes?

They functioned, not great. I drove it about 1k miles. Had a small leak on a bleeder, a union to the rear lines and back of the master. That's why I replaced everything.

 

[65Bel]

Welcome from Illinois!! Great looking Charger!

 

[lemondana]

Is your Charger a factory power disc brake car? If so-you had the BEST booster on it that you can use. The Bendix Dual Diaphragm is a much better booster than anything available in the kits. Get your original Bendix booster rebuilt, find the right master cylinder, or get yours rebuilt and sell all of the crap that you bought! I see so many of these upgraded kits with these tiny boosters, no wonder they don't work worth a damn.

 

[Demonic]

however i had to change my calipers twice

Can you elaborate on that?
Where is the original booster? It's not often they go bad.

 

[Hey-O]

1-Make sure the booster to master push rod is adjusted correctly.

I would start right there.

 

[Budnicks]

Welcome to FBBO
hopefully you get it sorted out

more detailed info, what's been done or tried/replaced
(even photos) you can give here
the easier
it is to help diagnose the problems

 

[chickendeluxe]

Same set up.
My pedal pressure improved by lengthening the Booster to MC rod about a 1/4 inch.
Use a 5/16 wrench and a 6mm socket.
Eventually I wound it all the way out.
I also adjusted the rear shoes and that helped too.