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Next piece of the puzzle

Doug, if you get a chance, could you measure the thickness of your heads, measuring the lower head bolt area? Mine are .868 to .862 from where the bolt seats to deck surface. By the large water port at the end of the head, there is only about .250 thickness on mine.
 
Nice work indeed!

I was just reading about ‘gasflow’ around and over the valve head, when it sits in the ‘piston pocket’...

Says you should use a full curve on the tall side of the intake valve recess...?

“Why you ask”

Because the incoming charge hits the lip at the most crucial part of the opening sequence and affects the flow for quite a long time into the lift cycle...?

Mad scientists are working this stuff out (Edelbrock)
 
So my Friend Henry valve jobbed and trimmed up the welded chambers. I'm no cylinder head guru by any means. But Henry has been in the cylinder head business for years. He's worked for some high end head outfits in the Detroit metro area. So this is what they look like up close.
Doug

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Got the main clearance set. All .003" +/_.0001". Pin fit the pistons as they only had .0002" pin clearance. Cranks bolted in. Slid the pins into the pistons and rods and put all 8 in the block to check the deck height. All +.003" +/- .0003". Compression comes in at 15.38-1. So now the rings get filed and gapped. But oh wait. I'm putting a cam lifters, and timing chain in a friends 2011 5.7 Grand Cherokee. So the race stuff is on hold for a few days.
Doug
 
An amazing amount of detail and accuracy going into this build. Many of us must be in awe. I sure am. Keep up the posts Doug. Will it be going onto a dyno?
 
An amazing amount of detail and accuracy going into this build. Many of us must be in awe. I sure am. Keep up the posts Doug. Will it be going onto a dyno?

The detail is so there are no mistakes in assembly on my part. I'm to cheap to dyno it. Plenty of data on the car. So besides being fresh there are no real changes. It 8" bigger (580"), the compression is up .2, the nicest valve job it's had in 10 years. The rest is just like it's been. The ET slip will be the dyno. Is this enough to push it into the 8"s. Who knows.
Doug
 
How guys like yourself and Malex go about this craft are an inspiration, Doug! The patience and attention to detail you display are next level. Thank you for sharing it here. The level that you have set the bar at is making me a better car-crafter, and I’m sure I’m not alone.
 
The detail us just patience. If you don't like how you did it, start over. That being said I can't do everything perfect by any means. So what did I do today? Nothing fun that's for sure. But it pays for racecar parts better than Social Security.
Doug

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I'm sure you already know Doug but pull all 4 and replace the MDS solenoids. The magnet on the end catches a ton of the metal off that cam.
 
Got the main clearance set. All .003" +/_.0001". Pin fit the pistons as they only had .0002" pin clearance. Cranks bolted in. Slid the pins into the pistons and rods and put all 8 in the block to check the deck height. All +.003" +/- .0003". Compression comes in at 15.38-1. So now the rings get filed and gapped. But oh wait. I'm putting a cam lifters, and timing chain in a friends 2011 5.7 Grand Cherokee. So the race stuff is on hold for a few days.
Doug
So your clearance piston to head is basically the head gasket -.003?
 
So your clearance piston to head is basically the head gasket -.003?[/QUOTE]

Exactly. It was zero deck last time. But after the sleeve it took a .003" cut to clean up the deck.
Doug
 
About the minimum piston to head clearance would be . 045, so i am betting it gets a . 051 gasket.
 
How guys like yourself and Malex go about this craft are an inspiration, Doug! The patience and attention to detail you display are next level. Thank you for sharing it here. The level that you have set the bar at is making me a better car-crafter, and I’m sure I’m not alone.
——
I’m not in the same league as Doug but thanks for the mention LW! And I’m sure the days of 9’s are behind Doug now.
 
About the minimum piston to head clearance would be . 045, so i am betting it gets a . 051 gasket.
—-
On my 505 I’m at .0015 deck. Running .036 head gasket. So far so good.
 
Plenty of head clearance. Just don't want to go any higher compression than the 15.38-1.
Doug
 
Put this badboy on kill and get that 8 second time slip.















Stop playing games big guy!
 
Put this badboy on kill and get that 8 second time slip.















Stop playing games big guy!
8 Ball in the corner pocket. I have a small job for you this Spring that if you have time can help fund the race in session period. I'll reach out on the mail box.
 
The garage always has space for your project Lee.
Doug
 
Todays project gap the rings. I'm using a Pro-Form electric filer. Not the best in the world. But once you learn its little glitches it works well. First is to always et the wheel in the same place as it is not perfectly flat.. That way you ca get consistent readings. When grinding rings cut one side only/ The aim is to make sure the gap stays parallel. sneak up on the first couple you do. Once you get a feel it takes me 2 cuts. First I cut and check it'll be .010"-.013" gap. Then rezero the indicator and finish it up. When in doubt stop and check. It's only time. After each cut lightly deburr the sharp edge before checking the gap. If you have a hand grinder or a file the procedure is basically the same. When using a file , mount it in a vice. File in by pushing the ring inward from the face of the ring. When measuring in the bore the ring must be square. I use a depth mic. An adjustable square works well also. Set it to about 1/2" depth. Check it at 90 degrees several times before measuring. Now comes my trick tool. Its a variable thickness feeler gauge. Slide it in the gap until it stops. A friend made it for me years ago. In this case the ring gap will be .0045"x 4.530" (the bore)= .020385". My gap goal is .021"-.022". Ended up with 7 at .021", one at .022". The 2nd rind will be set to ,023"-.024". The oil rails should have a min of .015" to .060" max. Unless its a special application they'll be fine out of the box. But always check. On a performance build the side gap in the groove should be .001'_.0015" Also check the groove depth. Minimum of .005".
Doug

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I already had a Dremel tool so I whipped up a fixture to gap my rings. I'm sure it's not as precise as yours but, close enough for my stuff.
Mike
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