No crank, no start, no accessories but headlights work.

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Sounds like an ignition switch Molex connector issue to me. You can properly diagnose/test it and the ignition switch function prior to taking apart the column. Perform a voltage drop test on each side of the red ignition switch feed while under load.

 

[mrmolding]

Sounds like an ignition switch Molex connector issue to me. You can properly diagnose/test it and the ignition switch function prior to taking apart the column. Perform a voltage drop test on each side of the red ignition switch feed while under load.

Why are you always right??? . That’s a compliment by the way! So I got under the dash, the connector looked plugged in and the tab was in place. I pulled it apart and tested each key position in ignition switch wires with my multimeter. That all checked out ok. So then I connected the battery and put multimeter to volts, put black on ground and touched red to power in molex from firewall — 12.3 volts! But it made the same electrical clunk noise similar to when I replaced the Ecu last year and car fired up again. Checked voltage in yellow wire to starter relay and 12.4. Plugged it in to relay and it fired right up!
I guess connector replug fixed it but why do I feel like I’ve just gotten lucky? Maybe connector was not seated well.
Anyway thanks again!

 

[mrmolding]

I wanted to update when I took the car for a test drive. I did a voltmeter conversion last year and the voltmeter would dance a little bit from time to time. Since I reconnected everything — especially the ignition molex connector, the voltmeter is rock solid like in modern cars. So I guess a steady voltmeter is a decent way to see if there are loose connections? Works for me.
I also reran all of the tests in Halifax Hops manual and everything was no more than a 0.5 voltage drop. I’m going to call this fixed.
Thanks again everyone!!!

 

[mrmolding]

One more update! Turns out that my problem was the ignition switch after all. My gremlins started again after a few days so I bought an NOS US-88 switch off eBay. All of my intermittent starting, dancing voltmeter problems, etc have gone away. My next decision is do I convert the molex connections to the anderson connectors in the video in post #21. I bought the kit so in time I suppose I'll make the change. It's funny because I replaced the newest version of the Standard US-88 switch with all of the issues with an older Made in USA version of the US-88 switch and it seems and feels more substantial. If this one fails I'll spring for an NOS mopar one. They seem plentiful but are not cheap for NOS. Anyway, thanks again everyone!

 

[451Mopar]

power to or from ignition switch

 

[mrmolding]

power to or from ignition switch

From was bad. To was ok from bulkhead/harness. Once I bench tested import US-88 switch I realized that accessory position was showing an open line and no ohms, I realized the switch was bad. It had been flaky since day one if you look at my posts over the past few years.