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No crank, no start, no accessories but headlights work.

mrmolding

mrmolding

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After a long drive, car dead in driveway — No crank, no start, and checked battery cables. This happened a few months ago and checked connections with a test light and multimeter. I got frustrated and replaced ECU and car fired up and was fine for three months.
So tried the usual suspects again — I can jumper starter relay and car cranks. But I get no signal from yellow wire when cranking. I also grounded safety switch lug to rule that out.
So, replaced ECU with a spare rehenberg blue box and still nothing.
Am I at replace ignition switch status or what else can I check before I open up the column?
I do get the buzzer going off when key is in ignition cylinder.
Thanks and any help is welcomed!
 
Last edited:
Did you check... To see if you had constant power going through the battery cables?... Recently had a brand new positive reproduction battery cable. No good
 
mrmolding said:
After a long drive, car dead in driveway — No crank, no start, and checked battery cables. This happened a few months ago and checked connections with a test light and multimeter. I got frustrated and replaced ECU and car fired up and was fine for three months.
So tried the usual suspects again — I can jumper starter relay and car cranks. But I get no signal from yellow wire when cranking. I also grounded safety switch lug to rule that out.
So, replaced ECU with a spare rehenberg blue box and still nothing.
Am I at replace ignition switch status or what else can I check before I open up the column?
I do get the buzzer going off when key is in ignition cylinder.
Thanks and any help is welcomed!
Click to expand...
The ECU has nothing to do with the motor cranking circuit. You can toss the ECU in the trash and the motor will still crank.
 
3white74 said:
Did you check... To see if you had constant power going through the battery cables?... Recently had a brand new positive reproduction battery cable. No good
Click to expand...
I had the same thing happen to me. Bought a reproduction positive cable and it was fine for a few month, had a no crank issue that drove me nuts for a bit until I did a voltage drop test on the cable and found the culprit. Worth the time to investigate
 
Bill Monk said:
I had the same thing happen to me. Bought a reproduction positive cable and it was fine for a few month, had a no crank issue that drove me nuts for a bit until I did a voltage drop test on the cable and found the culprit. Worth the time to investigate
Click to expand...
Yes but he jumpered the starter relay and it cranked.
That would suggest the battery cable is good.
No voltage on the yellow starter relay wire is the immediate issue.
 
Don Frelier said:
Yes but he jumpered the starter relay and it cranked.
That would suggest the battery cable is good.
No voltage on the yellow starter relay wire is the immediate issue.
Click to expand...
So I'm at the same place. I was going to disconnect the connector to the ignition switch and see if I had 12v (or power?) on the red wire on the connector from the bulkhead to the ignition switch. Then take my multimeter and turn the key to see if I have continuity during the key / ignition selections on the connector from the ignition switch. Someone please stop me before I rip apart the column. :) Thanks!!!
 
Don Frelier said:
Yes but he jumpered the starter relay and it cranked.
That would suggest the battery cable is good.
No voltage on the yellow starter relay wire is the immediate issue.
Click to expand...
Ahh, I'm with you on checking the bulkhead connector first, I also had what I thought was an ignition switch on a challenger but turned to be in the wire harness under the dash. Time consuming process of elimination
 
So it failed the Primary Test A and says that the circuitry outlined in black must be checked or replaced! Back to under the dash! That manual is great!

IMG_9745.jpeg
 
PM me your e mail and what you want.
 
Back in the day I would back probe connectors with circuit on. I had small needles from a tool company but you could use a paperclip or a hypo needle from an ag store. Most connectors inside aren't sealed. You can also do this on the weatherpack or similar connectors with the silicone seals on the back side. With a VOM you will see where you are loosing power without taking things apart.
 
Harbor Freight sells a back probe kit and what I also like is a 30 foot or whatever length retractable test lead. With a volt meter you can check for powers and grounds.
 
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