No Start

[Pentastar440]

so, a couple of weeks a go my brake light switch calved. I got another, but in the process of removing the old one, I accidentally nicked the speedo cable. I thought I should replace it. I got a NAPA replacement and installed it. I had to pull out the instrument cluster to do this. Since then, I have had a no-start. I'm scratching my head here. Ballast resistor showing 1.2 ohms. voltage on left side of resistor 10.97 v. other side 4.9v. Pulled no. 1 plug, no spark. Checked ECU ground, installed a ground wire to be sure. Never had an issue like this owning Mopars for nearly 50 years WTF?

 

[Geoff 2]

Check the wires/plug on the ign sw. Say a prayer to Allah.....

 

[Don Frelier]

4.9v is too low something is wrong there

 

[twecomm]

Your brake light switch "calved" ? Think "Calved" is the wrong word...

More info needed.... Does it crank ? What are the voltages across the resistor while cranking ? 10.97 is well below what your battery voltage should be, what is the state of the car when you get these measurements ? When you had to pull the gauge cluster, did you disconnect the alt-amp gauge ?

 

[Pentastar440]

Brake lights started staying on constantly. Remedy, new switch. Yes, it cranks. Battery voltage is 12.6.
I'm going to pick up a remote starter switch today so I can watch for spark at high tension coil to distributor wire. I'll check the ignition harness, maybe it is not making full contact at the plug. I did undo the ammeter wires. They are re-installed correctly, as is every other connection to the cluster. I took my Charger down to a shell and rebuilt it with all new wiring. There are no weird connections or splices. It has run perfectly since 2012, always stored in a heated garage. no visible corrosion on any electrical connections. I also pulled every spark plug, cleaned and dried them off and re-installed them. I should mention I am running a Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit P4120505, and a two pin ballast resistor. The ECU is a 4 pin.

 

[Don Frelier]

Brake lights started staying on constantly. Remedy, new switch. Yes, it cranks. Battery voltage is 12.6.
I'm going to pick up a remote starter switch today so I can watch for spark at high tension coil to distributor wire. I'll check the ignition harness, maybe it is not making full contact at the plug. I did undo the ammeter wires. They are re-installed correctly, as is every other connection to the cluster. I took my Charger down to a shell and rebuilt it with all new wiring. There are no weird connections or splices. It has run perfectly since 2012, always stored in a heated garage. no visible corrosion on any electrical connections. I also pulled every spark plug, cleaned and dried them off and re-installed them. I should mention I am running a Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit P4120505, and a two pin ballast resistor. The ECU is a 4 pin.

Just note that when you use the remote starter right at the relay the key is in "Run" position.
You need to check spark in both Start and Run.
But 5 volts isn't going to do it I can tell you that for sure.