Oil Type 318

[TopBanana72]

I'm getting old and can't remember what grade of oil I should put it for the summer.. 10w bla bla...

The engine is a basically stock 72 hydraulic flat tappet 318 freshly rebuilt last year with some performance goodies. I think I used conventional after the break-in with some zinc additive. It's time for the second oil change....

Lots of people tell me to use Rotella. Sounds good to me, what grade?

thanks!

 

[toolmanmike]

I use 10/30 Valvoline and some Rislone ZDDP supplement. I can't seem to find the Conventional this year so I switched to a Farm Fleet brand made by Citgo. My small blocks aren't picky as long as they have some inc.

 

[R413]

Sounds like a nice engine. you spent good money on it so don’t cheap out on the oil. I would use 10W30 driven racing oil. Part number HR-2

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497803-hr2-10w-30-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html

 

[68-500]

10w-30 HDEO Diesel rated.

 

[ruffcut]

Yep! Diesel oil ruffcut

 

[WileERobby]

10W-30 castrol & add a bottle of STP, has zinc additive in it

 

[Backrd.Junkyard]

Valvoline VR1 10W30. You can add Rislone to boost the zinc even higher, but it's supposed to have enough to not need extra.

 

[toolmanmike]

Valvoline VR1 10W30. You can add Rislone to boost the zinc even higher, but it's supposed to have enough to not need extra.

Is VR1 a synthetic?

 

[33 IMP]

Is VR1 a synthetic?

Pretty sure VR1 is available both Dino and synthetic.

 

[Ron H]

After my rebuild on the poly, using oil w/ zinc was necessary having solid lifters. Use Valvoline high-zinc racing oil 10/30. Had been running a higher visc racing oil for a while and pressure was always high, dropped it to 10/30. Part of this swap was in the mix of several things to reduce engine temp. Before the build had run Castrol 10/30 for years.

 

[Dave6T4]

I go to the local GM service counter and buy their EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) and add to Castrol GTX 20W40. (I wear a disguise in case any of my Mopar friends are in the area.)

 

[toolmanmike]

I go to the local GM service counter and buy their EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) and add to Castrol GTX 20W40. (I wear a disguise in case any of my Mopar friends are in the area.)

EOS is good stuff.

 

[R413]

I like to buy the correct oil for the application. I don’t like adding things to oil. You buy an additive and add it to off the shelf oil. Well that oil has very high detergent and that detergent fights your special additive so you are not getting what you think you are.

EOS changed formula and is not as good as it was.

 

[33 IMP]

I just use whatever I find in the garage. I tend to buy oil when it's on sale, whether I need it or not.....

 

[rumblefish360]

I like the “Driven” oil that is set up with everything in the bottle, no additives needed. AMS Oil also has a formula like this and is fine to use.

Oil should also be selected by the rebuilt specs on clearance. If this is done as a stock rebuild, HP components added or not, then the clearances at the crank and con rods would be looking at a 10/30. If it was a high mileage engine or an engine built with bigger clearances than stock, 10/40 would be used. Just the reverse if it was a tight clearance engine. A lot of new vehicles and imports will ask that you use a 5/20 or a 0/20. The clearance at the mains and con rods is incredibly tight.

 

[Backrd.Junkyard]

Is VR1 a synthetic?

The VR1 I get is Dino oil. I been running straight SAE 30W (like the 1971 owners manual calls for) and give it a lot of warm up time.