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Old car security

I used a ford dual tank selector valve on a couple of my restorations. I put a good alarm system with an aux. output wire. Wire that to the valve, cap off the non-used side of the valve and that way they will only drive as far as the float bowl will take them.

If your security system lets the thief move the car a short distance, when it stalls in the middle of the road he won't want to stick around to try to get it going again. Then a dead car in the middle of the road with no driver attracts the right kind of attention very quickly. Years ago I saw a DIY kill switch that instead of not letting the car start at all, it would keep stalling the engine. The thief thinks it is an engine problem, and not a kill switch.
 
I'd assume that the real purpose of the theft in the first place, was a joy ride in a cool car. The longer they had possession of it, the more likely damage would occur.
Leaving a "rotty" in the car is absolute protection, but in Massachusetts, leaving your dog in the car carries more jail-time than car theft.
A transponder will allow you to find your car, but what will you find? I wouldn't think that it will be parked in front of the thief's home.

I don't imagine that these end up in a "chop shop", those places are looking for more modern cars, wouldn't you think?

I like Darter6's idea about a hidden kill switch, perhaps there is a more inconspicuous way other than running wires to the distributor

A fuel line cut-off would seem to limit the distance a thief can go. I'd hope when the car runs out of fuel...they run away.

Messing with the wires under the hood, would be good for home protection, inconvenient for a night out.

Worth checking out: http://www.dan-marc.com/rv-parts-12-volt-fuel-shut-off-valves.html

All great stuff. I refuse to be limited on my travels, worrying about this. I will do something.
 
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I like Darter6's idea about a hidden kill switch

I always thought there were two main problems with kill switches. First, hiding it without having to be a contortionist to get at it, and the fact that after a while people don't set them, or forget to. I installed a few that eliminated those problems. I got some membrane switches that are the size of a postage stamp. I put the switch under the carpet at the side of the seat. Then I used a relay configured to be a latching relay. You must push on the carpet where the switch is to start the car, and then the instant you turn the car off the kill switch is automatically set.
 
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I always thought there were two main problems with kill switches. First, hiding it without having to be a contortionist to get at it, and the fact that after a while people don't set them, or forget to. I installed a few that eliminated those problems. I got some membrane switches that are the size of a postage stamp. I put the switch under the carpet at the side of the seat. Then I used a relay configured to be a latching relay. You must push on the carpet where the switch is to start the car, and then the instant you turn the car off the kill switch is automatically set.

I keep coming back to the coil wire and how to get it to automatically "break" after it is turned off. On the big machinery at work, there are "magnetic starter switches", as long as current is passing through, a coil charges a magnetic which in turn holds the circuit. In this manor, if the power fails, the magnet releases and the circuit opens, until the start button is pushed again. If you could put this in the coil wire ( the "out" end of the ballast resistor) the car would start, but as soon as the key is released the it would shut down. Just need a tiny-weeny 6v magnetic starter...and that pressure switch to bypass the magnet til it starts.
 
There are latching relays with two magnetic coils in them, for purposes like that. I used a double pole relay wired in a certain way to do the same thing. I am into electronics, so I found these items in with my pile of parts. If you are interested I can post a schematic of the circuit I used.
 
I keep coming back to the coil wire and how to get it to automatically "break" after it is turned off. On the big machinery at work, there are "magnetic starter switches", as long as current is passing through, a coil charges a magnetic which in turn holds the circuit. In this manor, if the power fails, the magnet releases and the circuit opens, until the start button is pushed again. If you could put this in the coil wire ( the "out" end of the ballast resistor) the car would start, but as soon as the key is released the it would shut down. Just need a tiny-weeny 6v magnetic starter...and that pressure switch to bypass the magnet til it starts.

Typically, the thief isn't going to have a key or use the ignition switch. As has been said, jumper wire from the starter solenoid large terminal to the coil + with alligator clips. Screwdriver to jump solenoid and your gone... It's not hard to wire in an Off-On switch into the positive battery cable and mount it in an accessible spot under the seat. Hard to spot if done right. Any custom shop could handle this if you aren't able to do it yourself. When you park, reach down and flip the switch. No current to anything. When you get back to car, flip it back. Not obvious and no dirty hands...
 
Ex bother inlaw had the switch to shutdown ignition so when you pulled ashtray out a little killed ignition. Push ashtray in good to go.
 
Always like the chapman locks they locked the hood and also killed the ignition. But a tow truck will still win!
 
When you park, reach down and flip the switch.
There's the problem. How long before that becomes a PITA and the kill switch stops getting set? With my switch it is set as soon as you turn the key off, so choice not to set or forgetting to set is impossible.
As has been said, jumper wire from the starter solenoid large terminal to the coil + with alligator clips.
You can buy this.

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One clip to batt +, one to starter relay, and one to coil. Flip the left thumbwheel to Off, and when you press the button on the right, the starter engages. Can be used for tuning, compression checks, etc. With the thumbwheel turned to ON, push the right button and the engine starts. Back to Off to kill engine. A real handy device when working under the hood. But... walk up to a classic car (without a steering lock), open the hood, hook up the switch, start engine, close hood, and Gone In Sixty Seconds.
I once read something that I think is probably true. If someone really wants your car, and is a "pro", they can get it. The idea is to discourage the opportunistic thief, with the discouragement being the longer he has to mess with the car, the more likely it is that he will move on to easier prey.
 
I doubt he could read the sign to know he was a target... nothing illegal about owning the ones I had registered! LOL
 
I have a couple old beauties, a 66 Coronet 500 and a 66 Barracuda. With my limited experience, I'm quite sure that I could steal my cars with almost no difficulty. Knowing that, I'm always looking over my shoulder whenever they're parked.
I'm not a fan of alarm systems...don't like the look.
My thinking is a "FOB" type of fuel-line switch, would prevent a thief from getting far.
Does something like that exist?
What does anyone else use?

I don't take my car and park anywhere where I am NOT in the immediate area and within my vision at all times! Why would you want to take a chance of parking lot damage or even worse, theft? When it's not driven, it's parked safe in a secured garage. You do what you do, and I do what I do! Good Luck
 
The car is in the garage, the steering wheel is in the house. If I'm out and about, the steering wheel is on my arm.
Then, even if the have a steering wheel, they have to figure out what each of the unmarked switches do (one is the horn), and find the second battery shut off switch.
 
I used to have nightmares about that, whenever to took the car out or generally. Many car thrives transport these quickly across state lines via U-Haul ect....GPS trackers was my solution. three per car. Never had to use them.....but several car collectors I know have, and had great success getting the cars back, as well as the perps....
 
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