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Once and for all time......67 B Body wheel backspacing.

Ghost, if you are just trying to get a 13" section tire in an almost 16" space, i doubt you will need to be ultra precise. Stanton did the calcs for you, came up with seven and a half bs, and others of us agree you will need at least seven. Which means you will need a custom two piece wheel, but of course you knew that.
I would just say, if you are going to err, err on the side of too much b.s. If the wheel has too much backspace and the tires rub inside, that can be fixed with spacers. If you have too little, and they rub on the outside, then what....?

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Keep in mind a 10" wheel is actually 11" outside to outside. If those are accurate measurements then you have everything you need to calculate the required back space
 
Trying to edit my post#22, it wont let me, oh well.
The loose wheel is a couple decades old concoction by centerline just for your situation. They married a 15x8 outer, to a 15x14 inner. It was originally built for a 5 on 4" (smaller center hole, more meat arount the small pattern) but has been double drilled to big mopar/ford.
 
Keep in mind a 10" wheel is actually 11" outside to outside. If those are accurate measurements then you have everything you need to calculate the required back space


7" is the minimum BS that will put your tire 3/4" from the outer fender, but you have more inner room so 7.5" BS would be better. That's a lot of BS. Someone mentioned it will be hard to get that onn/off
 
7" is the minimum BS that will put your tire 3/4" from the outer fender, but you have more inner room so 7.5" BS would be better. That's a lot of BS. Someone mentioned it will be hard to get that onn/off
Yep. Deflate the tire, slide the bottom in under the rearend then try to slip the top in. Might have to loosen bottom shock mount, or even take the springs loose from the rear shackles.
 
Here's a 315-60-15 on a 10 inch rim with 5.5 bs

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Here's a picture with a 29.5x10.5w tire on a 10 inch rim with 4.5bs

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7" is the minimum BS that will put your tire 3/4" from the outer fender, but you have more inner room so 7.5" BS would be better. That's a lot of BS. Someone mentioned it will be hard to get that onn/off

Many of the rides I see built be the pros have gigantic tires that are tough to get on. I would even be willing to drop a leaf end to get them in. Thanks BTW.
 
Here's a 315-60-15 on a 10 inch rim with 5.5 bs

Yeah, there's something funky with the OP's car if it needs 7.5" BS. I think the rear end has been swapped at some point. The frame rails are roughly 40" outside to outside and he says he has 10" from the rail to the hub face. That makes the rear roughly 60" face to face. The stock rear end is supposed to be only 54-1/4 wide !!!
 
Yeah, there's something funky with the OP's car if it needs 7.5" BS. I think the rear end has been swapped at some point. The frame rails are roughly 40" outside to outside and he says he has 10" from the rail to the hub face. That makes the rear roughly 60" face to face. The stock rear end is supposed to be only 54-1/4 wide !!!
I'll check all of that ...the leaf's are directly under the frame rails so however far apart they are is how far the leaf's are. So, the leaf's are 39" outside to outside and the drums are 60" between mounting surfaces. The 54 1/4" measurement is drum to drum inside backing plate surface. Not wheel mounting surfaces.
 
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Yeah, there's something funky with the OP's car if it needs 7.5" BS. I think the rear end has been swapped at some point. The frame rails are roughly 40" outside to outside and he says he has 10" from the rail to the hub face. That makes the rear roughly 60" face to face. The stock rear end is supposed to be only 54-1/4 wide !!!
54 1/4 is flange to flange. 66-67 is 59 1/2 drum to drum.
 
54 1/4 is flange to flange. 66-67 is 59 1/2 drum to drum.

I must be misinterpretting rear axle widths but in reality, who cares what the housing flange to flange measurement is, what really matters is the actual "axle" flange to flange since regardless of which brakes you have the outer face difference will never change more than a small fraction of an inch. And its the outer face (mounting surface) that matter when determining wheel offset.
 
To add to my comment above, if I were ordering a new rear end I would be assuming the measurement in question would be outside axle face to outside axle face, not housing flange to flange. For the very simple reason that I have no idea how far the axle protrudes from the housing and all I care about is the face my wheel is going to bolt to.
 
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