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Opinions please

Thank you all for your help, but honestly I thought 28 I for a good clone was a bit high. Am I wrong?
Some people feel different. I don’t feel that way. If it’s a very nice condition car with a very good condition running engine and it’s evident that a good amount of money has been spent on it. I’d take that deal a hundred times. It doesn’t make you feel any more important. If it’s for you, you have to be happy with it. You have to understand, if it weren’t a clone. It would be a 35-50k car. These cars are very expensive and valuable to a lot of people. And you won’t regret it for a second, if it’s a good car.
I think it’s a fair price. If everything minus the crossmember is very good. If not, it’s a 15 - 20k car. Crossmembers can be replaced. You can buy a brand new set of upper control arms for $90. Some things are expected, as long as it isn’t too many expensive issues. It would have to be very nice under the circumstances. 28k is fair for a excellent condition clone in my eyes. But, some cars have other aspects or features that increase or decrease value. Regardless of being a clone or not. If you want a non clone car that is in excellent condition. Add 7-20K.
 
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No opinion on price, but the picture here should make you look closer.
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In my opinion (since you asked)The potential crossmember rust you see is coming from the inside and could be compromising the torsion bar boxes. The amount of underbody coating hides a lot, but a quick poke with a screwdriver along that member will tell the tale. Rot there is a bunch of work to fix correctly IMO. Not to mention it appears someone does not know how to jack up their car.

Surprised to see no trunk pics, especially the drop-downs and every inch of the rear sheetmetal from underneath. A lot of tell-tale signs of hidden rot can be had there.

In my opinion, it might be worth a trip, could be easy to highlight many issues and push the clone de-value to see if they really need to sell. Then decide what you want to pay and show them cash. They can only say yes or no.

RGAZ
 
There was a member in that thread (which I didn't read again) that actually joined Zeemaps. You might read it and find him to see if he can unlock it.
 
Thank you all for your help, but honestly I thought 28 I for a good clone was a bit high. Am I wrong?

So it's a regular Coronet, not a Super Bee? What the first 5 of the VIN? If it is. Regular Coronet it is overpriced, especially considering the rust.
 
So it's a regular Coronet, not a Super Bee? What the first 5 of the VIN? If it is. Regular Coronet it is overpriced, especially considering the rust.
The car is a coronet 500 originally 318 auto now has a 440,tremek 5 speed ,8.75 rear with 3.90 gears
 
The car is a coronet 500 originally 318 auto now has a 440,tremek 5 speed ,8.75 rear with 3.90 gears
The upgraded drivetrin is a plus. I am still concerned about the rust. If the cross member is like that, chances are there is more somewhere. Get eyes on it for sure.
 
So, I'm in my garage blocking out my hood and watching the Mecum Auction Live.
A Blue 69 Roadrunner just went for 28k. Jump in and drive it away! (in the rain today!)
Shaumburg is being relentless to these guys! Get some money and get here fast! You can
buy a car that's done for chump change. Forget the rust buckets!
 
So, I'm in my garage blocking out my hood and watching the Mecum Auction Live.
A Blue 69 Roadrunner just went for 28k. Jump in and drive it away! (in the rain today!)
Shaumburg is being relentless to these guys! Get some money and get here fast! You can
buy a car that's done for chump change. Forget the rust buckets!
Nice idea, next one is in kc in December
 
pretty sure that's what a can of worms looks like right before you open it up.........way too much undercoat, rotted crossmember, how do you adjust the alignment with that goofy bolt thingy? I bet the entire *** end of that car is a mess, which is typical for 68-70s...... I'm thinking bondo buggy at least, total rot box at worst
 
Imho, I'd keep looking for something better/less work needed. Bet there's a lot more rot you can't see. I just finished rebuilding a similar car without as much rot as that and I say forget that one unless you want to do a lot of work.... And it looks like that car had no front sway bar and one was added along with the weak aluminum brackets on the lca's.
 
28k seems awful high if he cannot provide you with a receipt for a rotisserie restore. If you want to take on this project, I would do as others mentioned in here, have a reliable person do a 150 point inspection on the car, then go have a Steak Dinner with the Inspector (you buy of course, and drinks) and get a good idea of what you are getting yourself into. If its in need of work, well, Offer the guy maybe 10k and point out all the issues with the car. You do NOT have to buy it.
A good rule of thumb that I work by is, How much is the car worth restored? How much will it cost me to make it right again? Do I really want to get myself into this?
 
Roger just my opinion but I I don't understand why someone would do the drive train and not do the other upgrades while it was apart. My wonder now is sense the upgrade what is shaking loose. Just be careful all looks good outside but the meat and potatoes may not. Again just my thoughts good luck whatever you decide.
 
I agree with Daytona, Maybe hit up Arizona, New Mexico, Dry Climates and search for a better deal
 
Roger just my opinion but I I don't understand why someone would do the drive train and not do the other upgrades while it was apart. My wonder now is sense the upgrade what is shaking loose. Just be careful all looks good outside but the meat and potatoes may not. Again just my thoughts good luck whatever you decide.
I think I'm gonna pass on it,it looked interesting at first but now not so much. Thanks everyone for your advice and input.
 
I look around here and see what pops up.
 
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