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Orbital polisher feedback/recommendations?

Are you shining up older paint or are you sanding and buffing a new paint job?
For starters I am going to try to gain some experience and finesse by shining up an old paint job on a '93 Cutlass Ciera I have. Original pain but very dull. Although it's a great, dependable car, I don't mind mistakes being made as I go through the learning curve.
I'd like to eventually be proficient enough to buff out light scratches here and there on cars I own that I care much more about.
Hence my interest in getting the right tool(s).
 
I couldn't imagine the cordless batteries would last all that long on a charge. Buffers do take some power. Lugging around a cord is more of a inconvenience than a chore. Most guys put it over their shoulder to keep it under control. I sold dozens of Dewalt buffers with no issues. The one with the speed regulator is tops. Cruise control does a nice job. Wow, those old cast ones are man killers.
The Dewalts you're referring to...corded? Or cordless? And IME the cordless tools today are surprising at the run time. Are you saying the buffer is an exception here?

...if you're looking to clean up some old single stage metallic paint...
My memory may be way off here...but from decades ago (IIRC) I remember dad laying paint only (2) ways:

1) Lacquer base color then topped with clear.
2) Enamel. Longer dry time. Took time to "harden" when compared to lacquer. And no clear.

I couldn't tell the difference by looking at a car today. Is there a simple way to differentiate between paint types? Are those still basically the paint options? Did my memory even serve me correctly?
 
The Dewalts you're referring to...corded? Or cordless? And IME the cordless tools today are surprising at the run time. Are you saying the buffer is an exception here?


My memory may be way off here...but from decades ago (IIRC) I remember dad laying paint only (2) ways:

1) Lacquer base color then topped with clear.
2) Enamel. Longer dry time. Took time to "harden" when compared to lacquer. And no clear.

I couldn't tell the difference by looking at a car today. Is there a simple way to differentiate between paint types? Are those still basically the paint options? Did my memory even serve me correctly?
Corded
 
The Dewalts you're referring to...corded? Or cordless? And IME the cordless tools today are surprising at the run time. Are you saying the buffer is an exception here?


My memory may be way off here...but from decades ago (IIRC) I remember dad laying paint only (2) ways:

1) Lacquer base color then topped with clear.
2) Enamel. Longer dry time. Took time to "harden" when compared to lacquer. And no clear.

I couldn't tell the difference by looking at a car today. Is there a simple way to differentiate between paint types? Are those still basically the paint options? Did my memory even serve me correctly?

if you rub a little sandpaper (very fine) on an inconspicuous spot and it comes off white, it is clear coated and most likely modern urethane

lacquer and acrylic enamel are almost non existent these days but older cars still wear it.......... the enamel should have normal orange peel as it never needed to be buffed, lacquer would be much smoother and doesn't hold up as well over the decades........ lacquer may or may not be clear coated
 
I used a Porter Cable random orbital with foam pads. It’s less aggressive than an old school polisher with a wool pad, for a novice that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

When I did my GTX last winter I used Chemical Guys products exclusively, I was very pleased with the final result…

IMG_4508.jpeg
 
I have a black job coming up and plan to go all the way out to 8000 grit Trizact......... no wool pad will touch it
 
I purchased the 3M Trizact discs, the backing pad, and the Dynabrade palm sander with the Grey handle
for correct stroke. We'll see how it works out, but the videos on YouTube have me impressed! After the
8000 grit, you barely need to polish it!
 
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