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paint job

sleger

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massachusetts
i know this question will be really difficult to answer but hear it goes. i just got the green light from the wife to possibly paint my bird, it currently is orange and have allways loved the limelight green. i just want a ball park figure on what the cost would be to strip the whole car and go green or to just do the same color again. the good thing is accept for taking the vinyl top off there is no body work that needs to be done. thanks
 
cheaper to keep the same color....for the simple fact of the door jambs, engine bay, under hood...yadda yadda. im not a body man but i had a quote to have my purple 70 Road Runner repainted the same color and that quote was 8500.00. a full color change would be well in the 12 G's i would imagine. im not sure if youre aware of this but YOU are the one to give the green lights!
 
Go back to orange those high impact colors just dont look right on the 69 and older b bodies plus you would need to take the car apart for a color change.Paint varies alot in price,just got my car done this summer and with PPG materials cost would of been $4500 with there other line of Omni $1500.
 
I would consider 5K an minimum price for a decent paint color change.
 
Hold on. Did she say "you can do it". Or do she say "you can possibly do it". You gotta watch those female creatures. They have a way of saying you can do things but really saying "better not if you know what good for you". I've got experience in that area! Hear about it EVERYDAY. Lol

Paint it the way you want it the first time. Spending $8500 the first time and then spending 12000 the second time isn't cheaper. Maybe you will have to ask a second wife the next time around. My motto wait and spend good money the first time around. The only downside it takes forever to get anything done on the car.
 
there is no body work that needs to be done

Take no offense, please.......but we see that comment all too often. You'd be amazed what hides under paint sometimes. Not trying to be rude, so don't take it that way, but unless you watched the car get stripped and then painted from last paint job, you either riding on someones word or lady luck hoping there's nothing underneath. Just bringing it up, so there isn't no massive surprise to you and your budget when you get it done.

As far as cost....100 variables in that. The shop you take it to, how's the metal underneath, how much prep before paint, the type of paint job, the quality of the paint, the type and quality of any filler, primer and clear, the means of removing the old paint, the quality of the paint job in the end, how much wet sanding will be done, how much buffing will be done...ect....ect...ect...

If you're looking for a ball park, i'd agree with tpodwdog on the 8.5K-12K for a general price. Go shop around, you'll probably be surprised how much the price can jump around between shops. Stay away from the cheapest and the most expensive isn't always the best.
 
There's a lot of variables here, and kevin403 hit on a big one. :) When the wife green lights a possibility, it's just that... a possibility. Sticker shock will be your worst enemy in cases like this, so you need to assess what it is you really want and what you really need.

First question is what are your plans for the car? Are you wanting to do a full-on restoration, or just have it looking good for show or street use? If it is the former, you'll need to have the body stripped down to bare metal and start from scratch. If you just want the car to look good, then don't waste time and money having the car taken down to bare metal because it isn't necessary to achieve your goal. Another thing to consider here is body work. You may not think there's any bodywork to be done, but once your car has been stripped down to its naked glory, your P&B guy is going to turn up all kinds of warts, big and small, that you never knew existed, and that adds big $$$ to the equation fast!!! If the body looks acceptable to you now, don't strip it.

Second question is do you want to keep it 100% original, or do you want it the way you like it? If you really want a limelight green bird, and you're not worried about keeping the original color, then do the color change. If the decision is based on what color you like, then definitely do the color change because if you don't you won't be happy with the car in the future. You'll just keep obsessing about how you spent thousands of dollars on a paint job you really didn't want. Then you get the "well, you should have thought about that before..." lecture from the wife and who needs that?

Third question is how much work you want to pay for. Again, if your plans are to do this as part of a restoration, then the car should be disassembled. If your plan is just to make the car look good on the street, it's another waste of time and money to do this. Yes, there will be areas that don't get painted, but these will be areas that no one sees so why pay to paint areas that no one will know are painted unless they take the car apart?

Fourth question is how do you want the car painted? Do you want a factory-type enamel finish, or a modern, high-gloss, base/clear finish? A base/clear job will cost you about double what an enamel job will, but the finish on the base/clear is much nicer. If there's a decent place to splurge a bit, this is it.

The last question is finding someone to do the work. Personally, I don't go to commercial paint & body shops for two reasons. First, the focus of those operations is insurance-covered accident repairs. These guys get paid top dollar by insurance companies to do repairs, but the price of that income is they have to turn vehicles around in a timely manner so insurance work always takes priority over projects like yours, which is why it always takes so dang long to get them done. The second is overhead expenses. You're not only paying for the work but also for the lights, the rent, unemployment insurance, and every other cost the shop owner has, which drives up the per hour cost.

When I had my car painted (a 74 road runner with a color change from B5 blue to black), I decided to find a professional P&B guy who does work on the side, which meant I didn't have to wait on delays due to insurance work or pay for a lot of overhead. I found a guy on craigslist who had 16 years of P&B experience, did the body and prep work at his house, and used a relative's paint booth for the paint. I paid $2,200 for a full color change with a base/clear paint job, POR-15 primer to prevent any future rusting, and a fair amount of body work, which is about 1/4 what a shop would have charged me. It's not a 100 point show paint job, but I've shown my car at three car shows now and never heard a bad thing said about the paint and have gotten a ton of compliments on it. The down side of this approach is you have to find the right guy to do it, and there's risks if you pick the wrong one. Ask to see samples of his work and only pay up front for materials and you can minimize that risk.

So, what are the costs? If you want to do a strip and color change, you could be looking at $8k to $12k or more depending on what issues they find under the paint. If you want a color change without stripping the body, you're looking at $4k to $8k depending on what type of finish you want. Or you can be like me and shop smart and get the job done for $1k to $2k depending on how much body work needs to be done.

I would suggest you map out what you want, and what numbers the wife will consider without passing out from sticker shock, and go from there. :)
 
Just had mine done with "no body work needed". Paid $10k. You can save around $2k if you do disassembly and reassemble yourself. My car had never been in a collision and had no visible damage and was a virtually rust free California car. That said, when looking down the sides of the car the body shop pointed out faint but very visible ripples down the sides along the entire length. I told them to make it like glass, so they did.

I got quotes for over a year before I pulled the trigger. Those quotes ranged from 9k-20k. Of course Earl Shives or Miracle Paint will shoot it for $500, but that's not base coat/clear coat and no body work or polishing.

I agree with the comment about avoiding a commercial shop if you can. I chose a collision shop that was well known for quality work and had a good rep for doing several muscle car jobs each year. They did a great job, but since they had to juggle collision work, I didn't get my car back for 10 months. A buddy of mine had his 32 Chevy done at a pro restoration shop near Tahoe and they had the car for almost 2 yrs!
 
Go back to orange those high impact colors just dont look right on the 69 and older b bodies plus you would need to take the car apart for a color change.

Huh??? 69' Vitamin C Hi impact (orange)??? FWIW I love the hi impacts
 
Go back to orange those high impact colors just dont look right on the 69 and older b bodies plus you would need to take the car apart for a color change.

Huh??? 69' Vitamin C Hi impact (orange)??? FWIW I love the hi impacts

Ok this is my opinion and mine only i do love high impacts but i dont care for say sublime on a car that never came that way.Nothing against yours but i am sorta purist.If its a keeper he can do what he wants but it will hurt big time if he decides to sell it.
 
I don't know how true that is these days. Seems like most hardcore, originality-focused, collectors, the ones who live and die for broadcast sheets and fender tags, don't respect or appreciate anyone's restoration efforts but their own. No matter what color the car is, or how good the paint is, the first thing they want to do is take the car apart and start dipping or blasting, so they're not really buying, or valuing, the car off it's appearance. The value and price they put on the car is based much more on the broadcast sheet or fender tag.
 
Ok this is my opinion and mine only i do love high impacts but i dont care for say sublime on a car that never came that way.Nothing against yours but i am sorta purist.If its a keeper he can do what he wants but it will hurt big time if he decides to sell it.
Oh, no hard feelings or intent meant, what i meant was that the 69' vitamtin c is a hi impact, and i see what you mean by my car being a 68' with a 70 color now. I'm on the way other end of the purists spectrum, but i still love looking at a nice original or restored car. They are just not for me, i could care less about resale price. It's all about me me me me (lol) what ever i want to do with it that makes me happy, cause that's why i bought it, to make me happy!!and i am :)
 
Be sure to tie in a time frame. The old "take your time do a good job" is a curse. Prices go up and down based on a shop's work load.
 
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