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Will check window guts probably OK. 2nd request for hood release
BTW- I haven't had an opportunity to get back to the shop where the car is. I've been sick all week. Last week too. Can't shake the cough. ...and I've had to work all through it due to construction that affects the IT stuff I support. I'm hoping to get there this weekend.
ok, feel better, gimme a call, can run over sometime sat/sun if you are around
@Grabbergreendream grill brackets- right side is a little crusty but solid center is solid but a little more crusty left side (same as center) is even more crusty and kind of weak. $35 plus actual shipping for the two The bolts aren't cooperating. I have them soaking in Blaster.
@jprather Hood release bracket a little crusty but solid rod grommet is present I hit it a bit with the wire wheel to clear some crust
driver's fender is NWR IMO, unless you need a patch from the center arch, or the marker light area to convert a 72 fender
I'm working on getting the rear glass out (for some reason the pic didn't take) and the front regulator. Any tips on how to line up the bolts that hold the glass in with the holes in the frame? I'm just not seeing it.
Mine is busted out so I don't know
When removing 71-74 B Body door guts, I remove the regulators first. Unbolt the three bolts that secure the reg. Once the bolts are removed I then slide the reg. arm roller from the window track. At this point your regulator is freed up to maneuver out from the door shell thru the bottom opening. Then I remove the vertical tracks. After that I remove everything that's at the upper opening to make it easier for the glass to come out. This includes the felt strips, glass slide adjusters, upper door stop brackets, etc. The wider the opening the easier to remove the glass. Heck I can even remove the glass with the plastic stops still attached to the glass. Once the glass is removed I take it to the bench to remove all attached items to the glass. Hope that helps.
I thought that you could slide the glass up and out using the tracks once it was free of the attachment to the regulator.
tracks and glass have to be separated or it won't fit thru the opening.
That's what I figured, and that's what I can't see how to do. On 66/67, there's a big plastic bolt through the glass or two bolts attaching a metal glass holder that engages the regulator. Undo those and the glass slides right out.
I have had a few doors that were not easy the lower track that is attached to the glass can be a real bitch to get apart you get that lower track off the glass and you are home free. the screws that hold it either fall apart or they are rusted frozen solid and the round nut on the back will just spin with the screw. holding that round nut on the back is not easy you can snake it out with that lower track still attached to the glass (extremely tight ) but the upright tracks have to be all gone first as I had one I just could not get apart. even out of the car it wasn't easy.
There are access holes in the door frame, but I don't see any bolts that line up with them anywhere in the mechanism's travel. On most cars I've worked on at some point the access holes line up with bolts and that usually allows you to remove the glass or at least free the glass mount.
You have to lower it all the way And get at it thru that opening.
We all probably each have our own way of doing things. I've tried to remove glass attaching hardware while the glass is still in the door and I'll NEVER do it again. Much easier for me to remove the regulator 1st, upright tracks 2nd and finally all removable hardware/trim/brackets at the top opening. After that the glass is removable even with glass bracket still attached to it. You have to do it in a rolling motion and not straight up. Similar mechanisms as moving a piece of furniture around a door opening. After that it's to the bench to remove all hardware and the track. As for the PITA disc nut, I made a special homemade tool that catches the little notches on the disc nut. You have to protrude thru the pinkish plastic shell that covers the disc nut if the plastic hasn't already deteriorated. Plus when you have it on a bench much easier to attack it and own it. If I run into the screw and nut being too rusty and won't give, I'll take my acetylene torch (using a small brazing tip so I have more of a pin point flame) and apply just enough heat to free up the threads. In doing this I take my water spray bottle and soak the surrounding glass/plastic so it stays safe from the heat applied. Now this is in reference to 71-74 B Bodies as your thread title says 71 Satellite. I can see if your goal is to only remove the glass you would want to just do that, remove the glass but getting to the finish line may end up costing you more time vs removing everything and re-installing it.
@kma9176 here's the driver's regulator That was fun to get out Looks like you are cross the pond. I'm looking for a box it will fit in shipping might be a bit on the expensive side.
Still working on Driver's rear window
Someone was interested in the valve covers. Only one and it's crusty
I am looking for a K-member mounting bolt, do you have one?