Pcv valve

[Geoff 2]

I presume that is a hyd cam. If so that will need about 40-45* at idle. Yes 45*. A 440 I built has a 248 @ 050 sol lifter cam, which is close to your hyd lifter cam. It idles with 43* of timing, achieved by using vac adv. Made 605 hp with TF240 heads & a 850 TQ carb.

Try this 5 min test. Engine idling, in gear if auto, rotate dist slowly advancing the timing. When you get to the highest rpm, stop & check what the timing is. That is what YOUR engine needs for best idle & tip in response.

 

[Aron Gleason]

I presume that is a hyd cam. If so that will need about 40-45* at idle. Yes 45*. A 440 I built has a 248 @ 050 sol lifter cam, which is close to your hyd lifter cam. It idles with 43* of timing, achieved by using vac adv. Made 605 hp with TF240 heads & a 850 TQ carb.

Try this 5 min test. Engine idling, in gear if auto, rotate dist slowly advancing the timing. When you get to the highest rpm, stop & check what the timing is. That is what YOUR engine needs for best idle & tip in response.

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Its a mechanical advance distributor. At that timing the car would be hard to start.

 

[Orig69]

Well mine is for a 4150 carburetor

Okay so your M1 intake manifold is going to perform just as good as a Holley street dominator intake.

If it was me I would still check for a vacuum leak.

 

[Aron Gleason]

Okay so your M1 intake manifold is going to perform just as good as a Holley street dominator intake.

If it was me I would still check for a vacuum leak.

I have, no vacuum leak. But depending on how far open i have the idle circuit, it allows more air flow which means more of a controlled vacuum leak.

 

[Orig69]

The primary throttle blades at idle should be open approximately 0.020 thousands of an inch.

 

[Aron Gleason]

The primary throttle blades at idle should be open approximately 0.020 thousands of an inch.

True, I have to take the carburetor off to make sure they're still set right.

 

[Texas97]

if your vacuum is below 7 at idle, you need to run the Wagner with no spring and the cruise screw set according to their instructions which i think is all the way in. read the manual, it's clear and easy to follow.

 

[Orig69]

True, I have to take the carburetor off to make sure they're still set right.

If you want, you can post a picture of the bottom of the carb.

 

[Aron Gleason]

if your vacuum is below 7 at idle, you need to run the Wagner with no spring and the cruise screw set according to their instructions which i think is all the way in. read the manual, it's clear and easy to follow.

Its at 11 inches in park, in drive it drops to 6-7 inches. In the instructions they say to tune the valve in park which ive been doing.

 

[Geoff 2]

I'm out.

 

[Aron Gleason]

I'm out.

Lol, everytime ive asked questions concerning the carburetor. You always ask the same questions. But never give any good help.

 

[Geoff 2]

I never give any good help? You must be an idiot. The help I have given you is the best but you just ignore it. I made a suggestion in post #21 & you just ignored it. I also provided SEVERAL examples of positive outcomes of the test. I also gave you advice MUCH EARLIER that a 950 cfm Holley on a single plane intake on a street driven car [ stabbing the throttle & getting a flat spot ] is a bad choice & now FINALLY getting the cam information, it all makes sense. My FINAL piece of advice is to replace the cam with a Comp Cams 280H Magnum, use a dual plane intake & a 750-850 cfm carb. Then you will have a nice car to drive that doesn't bog...

 

[Aron Gleason]

Lol. Im not the idiot. Everything you had suggested never did anything to help the situation. And im not going to replace the cam i have for another one when the cam i have isn't much different from the one it replaced. And the carburetor was recommended by a reputable carburetor guy.

 

[Texas97]

Its at 11 inches in park, in drive it drops to 6-7 inches. In the instructions they say to tune the valve in park which ive been doing.

 

[Aron Gleason]

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Ill have to try that