Please check my 383 build. Does it work together?

[Curiousyellow71]

There IS no surprise your struggling. That intake is huge on a anemic engine, it has no port velocity.
First option..find a b engine tunnel ram that is NOT maxwedge. Weiand, Mopar M1, Offenhauser, would all be more workable vs the monster u have. But none are made new, you will need a used one.
You could buy a LOT of epoxy and shrink the ports down on your indy intake. Also decrease the plenum size. Probably your cheapest solution.
Absolutely upgrade the torque convertor. I would suggest a custom unit that is tight but flashes to 4000+. The stock one is not going to work. If you can get the rpms up it might help the fire stay lit.
Gears...Stock could be many things. Jack up the rear end and count the driveshaft revolutions for one tire revoution. If it not a sure grip leave one tire on the ground and spin one tire 2 full revolutions. Count the driveshaft turns.

 

[Runcharger]

Not much cam, I think change to a smaller TR, then switch to 3.55 or 3.91 gears instead of the 2.76 that is probably in it.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I don't know why people do such things.

 

[PRHeads]

what you’re experiencing is that “the combination really matters”.
And…….race parts often don’t provide satisfying results on the street.

I doubt a different TR by itself is going to truly “fix” it.
Improve it? Probably. But it will still be far from a “good” combination.

Offy also makes(made?) a smaller, lower profile dual carb intake for the 383.
It would def be a step in the right direction to getting the various aspects of your combo “all on the same page”.
It’s number 5186, and they pop up for sale used every so often.
There’s also the factory 2 x 4 intakes that show up once in a while.

 

[PRHeads]

This story reminds of a ride I got in a TR equipped Mustang many many years ago.
Basically a stock 289 with a huge cam, and a TR with 2 660 Holley center squirters on it.
One difference is…….the owner thought it was pretty hot……and it sounded pretty mean.

He mashed the throttle down…….and the car took off in a casual leisurely fashion.
No tire spin, no drama…….no excitement.

And, that story reminds me of another lackluster TR equipped beast from that same time frame.
A Dodge Aspen, stock 318 with stock 360 heads, 509 cam, TR, 600 Holleys, 2-sumthing gears(no sure grip),stock converter.
Similar exhilarating performance to the 289 Mustang.
If you floored it going around a corner, you could get the one tire to spin briefly.

As for the OP’s dilemma……
If it’s possible to run the engine using only one of the throttle bodies, my suggestion would be to get some sort of “appropriate” single carb intake installed on the motor and see if that brings it to life.
If it’s still sub par……then maybe the whole combo needs to be re-evaluated.

 

[mouserider]

There IS no surprise your struggling. That intake is huge on a anemic engine, it has no velocity.
First option..find a b engine tunnel ram that is NOT maxwedge. Weiand, Mopar M1, Offenhauser, would all be more workable vs the monster u have. But none are made new, you will need a used one.
You could buy a LOT of epoxy and shrink the ports down on your indy intake. Also decrease the plenum size. Probably your cheapest solution.
Absolutely upgrade the torque convertor. I would suggest a custom unit that is tight but flashes to 4000+. The stock one is not going to work. If you can get the rpms up it might help the fire stay lit.
Gears...Stock could be many things. Jack up the rear end and count the driveshaft revolutions for one tire revoution. If it not a sure grip leave one tire on the ground and spin one tire 2 full revolutions. Count the driveshaft turns.

agree, i got that intake almost for nothing, so had to work with what i have, will look for another TR, but in the meantime mb will try to epoxy that thing down, do i get it right, that i need to epoxy lower 2/3 of runners, match it with head ports and decrease the plenum almost to nothing? will get 4k converter. Wht about cam? is it ok?

 

[mouserider]

This story reminds of a ride I got in a TR equipped Mustang many many years ago.
Basically a stock 289 with a huge cam, and a TR with 2 660 Holley center squirters on it.
One difference is…….the owner thought it was pretty hot……and it sounded pretty mean.

He mashed the throttle down…….and the car took off in a casual leisurely fashion.
No tire spin, no drama…….no excitement.

And, that story reminds me of another lackluster TR equipped beast from that same time frame.
A Dodge Aspen, stock 318 with stock 360 heads, 509 cam, TR, 600 Holleys, 2-sumthing gears(no sure grip),stock converter.
Similar exhilarating performance to the 289 Mustang.
If you floored it going around a corner, you could get the one tire to spin briefly.

As for the OP’s dilemma……
If it’s possible to run the engine using only one of the throttle bodies, my suggestion would be to get some sort of “appropriate” single carb intake installed on the motor and see if that brings it to life.
If it’s still sub par……then maybe the whole combo needs to be re-evaluated.

i see, mine is not THAT bad, it does spin tires , but sure doesnt kick in( unfortinately i cant test it with single carb now)

 

[mouserider]

what you’re experiencing is that “the combination really matters”.
And…….race parts often don’t provide satisfying results on the street.

I doubt a different TR by itself is going to truly “fix” it.
Improve it? Probably. But it will still be far from a “good” combination.

Offy also makes(made?) a smaller, lower profile dual carb intake for the 383.
It would def be a step in the right direction to getting the various aspects of your combo “all on the same page”.
It’s number 5186, and they pop up for sale used every so often.
There’s also the factory 2 x 4 intakes that show up once in a while.

yeah, thats always an option, but still not sure what would i choose, look or burning tyres, also as i said hood has a massive hole in it.

 

[Lefty71]

i see, mine is not THAT bad, it does spin tires , but sure doesnt kick in( unfortinately i cant test it with single carb now)

I think we can agree you have a bad-a** car, especially given that it's a not a vehicle you would see every day over there. What I would do is embrace the "sleeper" mentality and fix the car up with a proper running combo that fits under the hood. Put the tunnel-ram setup on your workshop shelf.....(don't ever sell it lol), and tell anyone who asks enormous fish stories about how brutally wicked the car was when it was installed.

Best of luck! Lefty71

 

[PRHeads]

How about a pic of what’s sticking out of the hood now?

The other more extreme option……..if you really want it to “go” is………build a low deck stroker(close to 500”) with some TF270 heads, then the Indy intake should work reasonably well.

Yes, that would be many thousands of $$$$ more than a different manifold.

From the sounds of it, you’re not really trying to make it a race car…….just trying to get what you to be “better”.
To that end, a smaller TR should move the needle in that direction.

 

[mouserider]

How about a pic of what’s sticking out of the hood now?

The other more extreme option……..if you really want it to “go” is………build a low deck stroker(close to 500”) with some TF270 heads, then the Indy intake should work reasonably well.

Yes, that would be many thousands of $$$$ more than a different manifold.

From the sounds of it, you’re not really trying to make it a race car…….just trying to get what you to be “better”.
To that end, a smaller TR should move the needle in that direction.

Got it, pic easy. Attached. Agreed, will go smaller TR or epoxy, 4000 converter and take it from there. I can always get low profile 2x4 intake later on.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Instead of actually using efi throttle bodies what would be the affect of direct injection. Less time for fuel fall out. I know more money. Might as well make it look like your dropping nitro in it also.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Beware if you are ordering a torque convertor you need to know what rear gear you have. If you get a race type "loose"convertor it can cook the transmission fluid cruising around at low speeds. You don't want a loose 4000 stall with 2.73s.
If you get one that's set "tight" it will move the car reasonably well at say 2000-2300. But when you give power to it...it will flash at 3500 or higher. That is just a example. The power and torque will affect the speed.
If you buy a over the counter convertor..ie b&m or Tci or Hughes they most often are loose, and if you get to much stall and not enough gear. It will cook it. You will need a stall that matches the rear-end gear closer it is loose. Tight custom could be from FTI, Dynamic or PTC.

I don't think the cam is anything I would change yet. You have to much going on with the intake. Doing the epoxy can work. But it's going to take a bunch of epoxy. You really need to go all the way up the port and not just the end to get port velocity back. The mw port is bigger on all sides.
Your car has to get some attention over there. Thanks for the picture. This isn't a mopar intake, but a example of epoxy being used.

 

[mopar 3 B]

What is being used for air cleaners?

 

[mouserider]

Beware if you are ordering a torque convertor you need to know what rear gear you have. If you get a race type "loose"convertor it can cook the transmission fluid cruising around at low speeds. You don't want a loose 4000 stall with 2.73s.
If you get one that's set "tight" it will move the car reasonably well at say 2000-2300. But when you give power to it...it will flash at 3500 or higher. That is just a example. The power and torque will affect the speed.
If you buy a over the counter convertor..ie b&m or Tci or Hughes they most often are loose, and if you get to much stall and not enough gear. It will cook it. You will need a stall that matches the rear-end gear closer it is loose. Tight custom could be from FTI, Dynamic or PTC.

I don't think the cam is anything I would change yet. You have to much going on with the intake. Doing the epoxy can work. But it's going to take a bunch of epoxy. You really need to go all the way up the port and not just the end to get port velocity back. The mw port is bigger on all sides.
Your car has to get some attention over there. Thanks for the picture. This isn't a mopar intake, but a example of epoxy being used.

View attachment 1540728

oh thank you a lot! i will check my gears and will revert back asap, thank you for helping me out!

 

[mouserider]

What is being used for air cleaners?

just a mr.gasket air cleaners that came with the bug catcher

 

[mopar 3 B]

just a mr.gasket air cleaners that came with the bug catcher

Do you know the airflow? Better yet try it without them for a run. A short one at that. Don't want to be sucking flying objects in.

 

[mouserider]

Do you know the airflow? Better yet try it without them for a run. A short one at that. Don't want to be sucking flying objects in.

ohh, thanks, actually didnt think about that, will definately give it a try

 

[mouserider]

There IS no surprise your struggling. That intake is huge on a anemic engine, it has no port velocity.
First option..find a b engine tunnel ram that is NOT maxwedge. Weiand, Mopar M1, Offenhauser, would all be more workable vs the monster u have. But none are made new, you will need a used one.
You could buy a LOT of epoxy and shrink the ports down on your indy intake. Also decrease the plenum size. Probably your cheapest solution.
Absolutely upgrade the torque convertor. I would suggest a custom unit that is tight but flashes to 4000+. The stock one is not going to work. If you can get the rpms up it might help the fire stay lit.
Gears...Stock could be many things. Jack up the rear end and count the driveshaft revolutions for one tire revoution. If it not a sure grip leave one tire on the ground and spin one tire 2 full revolutions. Count the driveshaft turns.

so, just checked the gears, its 2.83 and stall converter is stock which suppose to be 2100-2300, stock heads

so, do i get it right , i would be better with normal size TR, 4000 converter and what gears? Thank you

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Depends...What kind of driving do you want to do with it? Do you want it to cruise down the interstate or stop light to stop light.

Does it have a 8 3/4 rear-end?
If it is a 8 3/4 they made 2.76s and 2.94s.
If it is a 8 1/4 I believe 2.73s