poll about ammeter reading

[Ron H]

My ammeter reads dead center all the time...well it's disconnected after overheating causing damage to the BH. Nacho-RT74 gave me advice on how to bypass it and have it wired, a matter of connecting it up now. From what I've read stock ammeters were a hazardous setup.

 

[Jerry Hall]

The ammeter in my 67 functions just as described in post #4. When car is running and everything is functioning normally, it reads just to the right of center - a few amps +. When the alternator is bad it shows a discharge. If the VR starts acting up, the needle bounces a lot. Bad battery usually shows as a heavy charge that doesn't drop off after start up. About the only time the needle is dead on 0 is when everything is off or battery is disconnected. I find it to be a very useful gauge.

It is a very useful gauge. What makes it dangerous is 50 plus year old wiring and and loading circuits with accessories. Every electrical powered accessory is measured across the amp gauge. You can keep some load off the original wiring by using relays to switch the load of higher amp (added) devices directly to the battery. You have to remember that doing this just switches the load to your alternator, and it has to be able to recharge the battery. The wiring to it is also 50+ years old. In reality you have just switched where the danger is. If you're going to bypass the amp gauge upgrade everything, just not bypass the gauge. If you don't you have just changed where the fire is going to start. If anyone ever buys one of my cars the amp gauge hasn't been bypassed and there are no additional accessories. I'm staying oldschool there. Even my cars with gen III engines are operating the original wiring as a subpanel to the new components so they put no additional load on 50 plus year old wiring. Also if a wiring harnesses isn't up to par, replace it. Expensive yes, but which is worth more to you, your car and life or skimping on the cost.

 

[copper67sat]

It is a very useful gauge. What makes it dangerous is 50 plus year old wiring and and loading circuits with accessories. Every electrical powered accessory is measured across the amp gauge. You can keep some load off the original wiring by using relays to switch the load of higher amp (added) devices directly to the battery. You have to remember that doing this just switches the load to your alternator, and it has to be able to recharge the battery. The wiring to it is also 50+ years old. In reality you have just switched where the danger is. If you're going to bypass the amp gauge upgrade everything, just not bypass the gauge. If you don't you have just changed where the fire is going to start. If anyone ever buys one of my cars the amp gauge hasn't been bypassed and there are no additional accessories. I'm staying oldschool there. Even my cars with gen III engines are operating the original wiring as a subpanel to the new components so they put no additional load on 50 plus year old wiring. Also if a wiring harnesses isn't up to par, replace it. Expensive yes, but which is worth more to you, your car and life or skimping on the cost.

I cleaned and reused the original wiring when I restored the car. I chased a couple of intermittent electrical problems for the first few years afterward before biting the bullet and replacing all of the harnesses. Been largely trouble-free since.

EDIT: The only accessories I added from original is a pigtail for an aftermarket stereo that I take in and out, a couple of gauges and a tach so not a lot of extra load. I rarely even bother with the stereo anymore since I'd rather listen to the "music" my car makes. On the rare long trip, my wife brings her wi-fi speaker and plays it thru her phone.

 

[myk r sanchez]

Absolutely fascinating. There are three separate threads that are capturing a lot of passionate posts about ammeters. I never knew that this subject was such a hot topic, and I dont think I've seen people get this upset and agitated outside of the political forums lol. Thanks for the entertainment though...

 

[Jerry Hall]

Absolutely fascinating. There are three separate threads that are capturing a lot of passionate posts about ammeters. I never knew that this subject was such a hot topic, and I dont think I've seen people get this upset and agitated outside of the political forums lol. Thanks for the entertainment though...

Not agitated, just stating facts IMO.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Not agitated, just stating facts IMO.

Sometimes agitated! LOL

 

[Jerry Hall]

Sometimes agitated! LOL

Believe me I can get agitated, but this isn't one of those occasions.

 

[Charged440]

At the moment I don't have an ammeter, voltmeter or idiot light..... Weeeeeeee LOL

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Believe me I can get agitated, but this isn't one of those occasions.

well, maybe because you don't feel this topic pasionatelly LOL.

on a side note, I can say I'm proud of the votes by now. I thought it was to be waaaaay worst.

maybe all these years providing the right info have made the effort worths

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Absolutely fascinating. There are three separate threads that are capturing a lot of passionate posts about ammeters. I never knew that this subject was such a hot topic, and I dont think I've seen people get this upset and agitated outside of the political forums lol. Thanks for the entertainment though...

3 at this moment, one of them just floated on from the past, but many more in the recent past

 

[myk r sanchez]

Not agitated, just stating facts IMO.

Have you actually read the content in all three threads? I didn't know that name-calling, questioning someone's intelligence and personal insults had anything to do with facts about ammeters.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Have you actually read the content in all three threads? I didn't know that name-calling, questioning someone's intelligence and personal insults had anything to do with facts about ammeters.

Me either. Sure hope my posts aren't doing that except as you noted on the Political Forum.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Every electrical powered accessory is measured across the amp gauge.

Not while the alternator is in operation, should be no vehicle loads across the ammeter.

You can keep some load off the original wiring by using relays to switch the load of higher amp (added) devices directly to the battery.

Any loads added to the battery directly, even those powering relayed circuits will be added to the ammeter and related wiring while running, will be registered as charging current. If you want to keep this added current off your ammeter, maintain accurate ammeter function, make all added connections on the alternator side of the ammeter, no added loads at the battery whatsoever.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I wasn't to correct anyone untill read more opinions

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Ok, time to go back to school, jump ahead to 12:10 for the answer to today's question.

 

[Cranky]

A few minutes of the beeps was all I could stand lol

 

[Ranger16]

I never knew that this subject was such a hot topic,

It's right up there with "Which oil is the best".

 

[bm02tj]

The biggest thing is when you know how it was designed to work and you up size wiring to look after the bigger out put of your alternator you will like the ammeter

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

A few minutes of the beeps was all I could stand lol

How many here know the purpose of those beeps? Caution, knowing the correct answer will date you.

 

[Builderguy]

Gotta love, Please Turn the Record. Have not seen or heard that in a long time. Orienteering class a long time ago if I remember correctly. Man, time flies.