Possibly a dumb ? But...Wilwood 4 wheel disc brake system and factory hard lines??

[biomedtechguy]

Nice write up by you I found.
If I was looking for the "best brake for the buck" this would be THE way to go:
"Cordobas are actually good for something"...

http://arengineering.com/tech/mopar-musclecar-brake-upgrade/

 

[flypaper]

the one thing about the wildwood set up to me is
I hate the way that master cover looks
I would be putting black tape over that lid. lol
for any thing I ever drove, Brembo seemed to be the best brakes


I have a variety of different factory set ups on my cars
nothing crazy
one with the doba 11 in pin brackets
another 10 inch 73 dart with sliders set up (bonus can fit a 14 inch rim )
all parts I can easily get.

I have one of Andy's books
b body performance ... some good stuff in it.
suspension mods and stuff
got it so long ago I forgot I had it
I have to dust it off and thumb thru it again

 

[biomedtechguy]

I hate the way that master cover looks I would be putting black tape over that lid.

I did get the blacked out master cylinder.

 

[Bb70charger500]

I'm a bit late here but I'll throw my 2 cents in
I see what the mechanic is getting at ,and where others are saying keep them .
So we have 50 year old steal lines and some kind of junk in the rubber lines ! And $2000+ of brakes now for $120-140 I'd say replacement of all lines is a good idea because if something is in those lines and it heads to brand new brakes your out $$$$. I've used ss line s and reg steal lines. The stainless is not bad a bit stronger little harder to work with but if installed correctly they don't leak (at least non I've ever installed have! )
And steal lines aren't bad they do the job there not the best looking thing but if your not building a trailer queen or a SEMA car they get it done ! I do notice my SS lines get dirty quickly and look bad I just asoon have ugly steel lines !

But again for less then $150 I'd buy a line kit as Peace of mind not to hurt new calipers!!!

 

[themechanic]

Don't forget the hardware for the hard lines. I bought this kit for mine from Inline Tube's eBay store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/62-70-MOPA...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks themechanic!

 

[biomedtechguy]

I am worried about the issues some have had with stainless steel brake lines leaking. I don't see a reason to invite problems, because problems are what I'm trying to get rid of.
No matter how "good" a condition my current hard lines may be, for the small % of my overall costs, I'm going with ALL NEW hard lines so I don't have ANY old parts or crap or brake fluid, fittings, etc in the system. ALL NEW!

 

[themechanic]

I just suggested SS hard lines since all your other lines were SS and because they look cool when polished. If I were you, I would just buy the regular steel lines and be done. Check the flares for burrs, nicks or scratches before you screw anything together.

The reason I bought the last line in SS was that all the other lines were SS and it only cost a few bucks more.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Cost really isn't an issue, not that money is easy for me to come by, but given the total cost, I don't have any problems with the cost of SS lines. I don't see me having time to polish them, and I guess they don't come that way? What I absolutely don't want are any leaks, or problems if they have to be tweaked or bent, and I believe that SS is harder to bend than steel?
Anyway, I appreciate the advice and I may not have changed out the lines if not for your suggestion.

 

[themechanic]

Be sure and do a 60 to 0 test before you take the car apart for the upgrade. We all want to know the difference in stopping power.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Be sure and do a 60 to 0 test before you take the car apart for the upgrade. We all want to know the difference in stopping power.

Ok! I think the biggest difference will be controlled stops from high speeds and fixing the soft pedal by replacing EVERYTHING.
My current setup can certainly lock up the tires, but another reason for the new brakes is I'm getting them at cost, upgraded brakes are always part of the process in a "restomod/pro touring" build, and the red "Wilwood" calipers showing through the gaps in the aluminum Rallye wheels is going to be GANGSTER cool!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Hold on! All this **** about SS lines leaking, well, ya got the wrong SS. Brake line SSneeds to be annealed, makes it softer. SS brake line fittings being a different pitch, sorry, ya got the wrong fittings or they were poorly made.

I’d get SS hardlines and buy the appropriate fittings to match the stainless braided front hoses. On the rear, stainless braided flex line to the distribution block then appropriate fittings the stainless braided to each caliper.

Stainless is AWESOME to work with, minding ya get the softer stainless. You can get it rolls or straight lengths and do it yourself.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Hold on! All this **** about SS lines leaking, well, ya got the wrong SS. Brake line SSneeds to be annealed, makes it softer. SS brake line fittings being a different pitch, sorry, ya got the wrong fittings or they were poorly made.

I’d get SS hardlines and buy the appropriate fittings to match the stainless braided front hoses. On the rear, stainless braided flex line to the distribution block then appropriate fittings the stainless braided to each caliper.

Stainless is AWESOME to work with, minding ya get the softer stainless. You can get it rolls or straight lengths and do it yourself.

The fittings/adapters are being supplied by the Wilwood vendor, and I showed that on the inventory list.
@5.7 hemi
Take a look, I think this covers what you suggested as far as SS braided lines and adapters goes:

Can anyone tell me if the rear end block breather hose part (that I just replaced in October) is part of my future arrangement? If so, what does it do exactly? It looks like they are providing a T fitting, and I'm not sure how that may tie into or affect the hose/breather/block thing I bought.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Looks good to me.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Looks good to me.

Thanks
@5.7 hemi
Look at the EDIT please regarding the rear end breather/hose/block thing...lol.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Which pic?
Are you talking about the factory block?
Or is it the blue tee?

The factory block does 2 things.....
1. It’s a place to branch out to rear wheels.
2. It also acts as the place for the breather.

If your using that blue tee, that’s totally fine. Is there a breather mounted somewhere on that rear end?

 

[biomedtechguy]

The factory block does 2 things.....
1. It’s a place to branch out to rear wheels.
2. It also acts as the place for the breather.

THIS! It has a rubber hose moulded into it, that I was told the interior had gotten gooped up and collapsed, no brake fluid to one of my 2 rear brakes, and that is what the shop located (with some "this is a hard part to find in stock locally" drama) and replaced, and that fixed the no brake fluid to one rear wheel problem, and they bleed my brakes, and they were better (harder, firmer, didn't go toward the floor) than I can ever remember, but THEN came the next week of Cruisin the Coast and DAMN IT! day by day the brake pedal got softer, and more travel, and after a week I was back to **** brakes again, and I'm tired of calling Cass, and not getting any solutions.
So I'm changing EVERYTHING because of an at cost deal.
Grrrr!

 

[5.7 hemi]

By getting rid of all the rubber flex lines with braided stainless flex lines and replacing the factory hard lines with either stainless or equivalent, you’ll have AWESOME braking power!!!