Prepping 1972 Plymouth satellite for a road trip

[AdamBrooks98]

Just moved over from the welcome wagon forum, I hope this is the right place for this topic. I have a 1972 Plymouth satellite with a 318 and a 3 speed auto. I've done a decent amount of work to the car, and the big things left to do (other than rust repair) are engine internals/transmission work. I've been driving the car as my daily for a few weeks now, and I have noticed what sounds like lifter tick and (possibly) some knock from the lower end of the engine. When I had the oil pan off a few years ago I poked around with the rods and noticed most of them shifted a bit on the crank, I'm assuming that's worn bearings? I received some good advice from a lot of great folks on the welcome wagon page regarding what I should look for on my car before I start driving across the country, and I have a few answers for some of their questions as well. In regards to the rear end of the car, I was able to get a picture of the rear differential and I believe the numbers on the tag say 2.71. Also, it appears to be an 8.25, but there's no drain plug, so I may be mistaken. I'll attach pictures of that. I'm tossing around the idea of rebuilding the engine myself, sending it off to a shop for machining, or possibly just leaving it all together and chancing the trip as-is. My main concern is those old engines internals, rings, bearings, cam, valves, lifters and springs, ect. I've also seen some wild stories about guys stroking these engines out to a 390, and getting some crazy horsepower. I don't really have a budget for that, but I figured if I was pulling the engine and replacing most of the internals I may as well check what sort of options are out there. Any advice is welcome, and I'll answer any questions you guys have to the best of my ability.

 

[ckessel]

I don't believe any of the Mopar diff's had drain plugs, just fill. Judging by the diff pictures on rust condition, how does the underside of the car look? Rails, floors, k-frame, x-members, brake lines etc? May want to address that, if an issue, before you drop dough on an engine rebuild or any other upgrades. BTW, what is your specialty in the Corp?

 

[Sam69sat]

If i were you i'd start looking for a older durango or ram 1500 with a 5.9 magnum (360). I've seen lots of stories where those engines with even 200K have great looking cylinder walls. You should be able to find a decent one for $500. Then you could get parts to convert it to a carburetor an dress it up just like your la 318. That would be WAY cheaper than rebuilding a 318 plus more power. Look up "magnum swaps".

 

[ckessel]

If i were you i'd start looking for a older durango or ram 1500 with a 5.9 magnum (360). I've seen lots of stories where those engines with even 200K have great looking cylinder walls. You should be able to find a decent one for $500. Then you could get parts to convert it to a carburetor an dress it up just like your la 318. That would be WAY cheaper than rebuilding a 318 plus more power. Look up "magnum swaps".

And what he said. Mags are a great engine.

 

[Sam69sat]

With some headers, good carb, and intake maybe you'd get close to 300HP?? Bet that would blow the socks off your 318.

1999 Stock Dodge Durango 5.9 Magnum​

Fuel type:	Petrol
Engine displacement:	359.9 cu-in / 5898 cm3 V 8
Horsepower:	246 HP / 249 PS / 183 kW
Maximum torque:	334 lb-ft / 454 Nm

 

[WileERobby]

What is your long-term goals for the car ? In regards to the engine, even if you do the rebuild yourself, it may require overbore which means new pistons and of course you have the usual costs of rings, bearings, machinework, etc. Tally up those costs vs. alternatives ( engine swap, etc. ). As stated on ^^ previous posts, alternatives may be wiser, and cheaper, and better... in the long run.

 

[AdamBrooks98]

I don't believe any of the Mopar diff's had drain plugs, just fill. Judging by the diff pictures on rust condition, how does the underside of the car look? Rails, floors, k-frame, x-members, brake lines etc? May want to address that, if an issue, before you drop dough on an engine rebuild or any other upgrades. BTW, what is your specialty in the Corp?

Rust is a big issue, but mostly on the pans and body panels. I've checked the brake and fuel lines when I bought the car in 2019, they've been holding solid for a few years now. I did have to replace most of the front steering and suspension components because of rust and wear. The frame rails are rusty in a few places, but nothing super major. I'll see if I can grab a few pictures this afternoon when I'm done with work.

Also, my specialty is 0311 rifleman

 

[AdamBrooks98]

What is your long-term goals for the car ? In regards to the engine, even if you do the rebuild yourself, it may require overbore which means new pistons and of course you have the usual costs of rings, bearings, machinework, etc. Tally up those costs vs. alternatives ( engine swap, etc. ). As stated on ^^ previous posts, alternatives may be wiser, and cheaper, and better... in the long run.

Long term I'd love to see this car restored. I know it's not necessarily a good candidate for restoration because of the small engine and rust, but I feel like this car really deserves a second (or third I guess) chance at life. I'm not opposed to swapping the engine or transmission, in fact I feel like this car would probably make a better restomod option than a true restoration project due to needing so many new components.

Short term I've been replacing one part at a time while I save up the money to do the welding, interior, and paint.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Well, before you drop a new motor in it, let’s find out what that “tick” is (but I like your attitude ). For a cross country trip coming up, I’d say 1. Add a mechanical oil pressure gauge (cheap). Bad bearings will have very low oil pressure. 2. Feel around the exhaust manifolds (carefully) or have an exhaust shop look for an exhaust manifold gasket or donut gasket leak. 3. Pull the valve covers off, turn the engine over by hand with a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt & look for “loose stuff” in the valve gear. A worn pushrod end, tired lifter, slightly bent pushrod or worn rocker arm can make a tick. If any valve is “loose”, replace that lifter/pushrod/rocker arm. That’s my advice anyway

 

[Hilljack68]

Road trip? Per Terry and Mel, all you need is beer and chips.