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primers?

generaljmwlee

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what are the different primers ?
my dad is going to buy the primer he wants to get etching primer. Is that the first coat or do I use that and block that ? Every body at napa said this is what I use then use primer seal then paint. Can anyone help me and poss give me part numbers for the napa brand cross fire paints.
 
can't help you with NAPA paint part numbers but it sounds like you need a little more knowledge in the paint dept before you waste your money! If you are doing a spot repair an etch primer may be applied to the clean bare metal and then a primer surfacer. If you have stripped a panel the best method would be the application of an epoxy primer first followed by a primer surfacer which is the sandable component. If you lack experience with paint related materials you should be assisted by someone with experience...its a lot trickier than it looks. Read the technical bulletins that the manufacturer supplies with the paint...Lots of money can be thrown away in this area without prior knowledge/experience...Good luck.

AdamR has a post titled Paint Basics here that is basically correct...start there!
 
I have painted before. but the extent of it was replace fenders,hoods,doors,or just color change on a car. never took them down to bare metal , welding in patches and so on.
never blocked the primer or used epoxy. was just confused on all of the different primers that people om FBBO were talking about.thanks
 
Im just a hobby, not a professional but here's my method from experience and taking advise from pros....

-After stripping car, Epoxy Prime.
-If you have alot of filler work, I would suggest using Polyester Primer. It's basically a sprayable filler that will give you a nice smooth skim coat, won't shrink like a normal hi-build Urethane primer, and is cheeper than urethane primer (I get MarHyde Quicksand for about $55 a gallon)
-After I block the Poly, Then I apply the Urethane and block it.

After that people have different methods, some thin down epoxy for a sealer, or use a dedicated sealer, etc. But I will be applying paint on top of urethane (I'm using Nason 421-17 primer and the tech sheets say it can be topcoated). Most people advise not top coating Polyester primer, because it is so porous.

Most people don't recommend etch primer, and tech sheets will tell you whats compatable with what.

Hope this helps some,
Jason
 
What we do if were trying to get a really straight car after stripping (and repair) is spray a product called Reface on the bare metal. It’s like a spray able body filler and goes on thick not like regular primer. Typically 3 coats of this stuff. It may seem like a lot of thickness at first but you are going to start blocking at 1st with 80 then 180. You will block it down thin and remove most of the Reface. At this point we shoot about 3-4 coats of PPg primer, and block a lot more. After blocking like forever we give the primer a final wet block with 400. By this time you’re ready for base. Also like 69hemicoronet we shoot PPg Epoxy on the underside of the car. There is a lot more involved, but I am just giving you a snap shot of one method. You can look up the Reface primer on line, it easier and cheaper than skim coating the whole car. Some of these jobs have 200 to 300 hours of prep after all the metal work in done. Good luck.
 
U-POL Products Products UP0733 - Reface - Polyester Spray Filler

Check it out for details.
 
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