Prop valve to adjustable valve conversion?

[Frank1970]

Hello, has anyone gutted out that large prop valve and install only an adjustable prop valve that sits under the MC? I’m looking at Baer mc + adjustable valve. It looks like i just need to extend the rear line and reshape the front lines?

 

[gkent]

Let's say you decide to use the adjustable without removing the stock one. Which line would you plumb the adjustable in? So then you tweak the adjustable to reduce flow, what is the stock unit going to do ... probably compensate for the reduced flow. So you'll be chasing your tail. The goal is to balance the brakes to your liking. Use one prop valve ONLY.

 

[steve340]

I understand gutting the valve may seem easier but it may not. You have a lot more connections and fittings to leak and you may create an air trap.
I think remove what you don't need and make lines to suit.
Keep it as simple as possible.

 

[gkent]

I think "gutted out" means remove the whole thing.

 

[Cranky]

I like the APV......go for it.

 

[steve340]

Just to clarify my earlier post.
I agree the adjustable valve is worth it to install. Some adjustability of the brake bias is really handy to have.

 

[gkent]

BUT ... Rick Ehrenberg points out that with the APV the bias is like a broken clock - right twice a day (not his exact words but you get the drift). In race cars, the adjustment is done from the driver's seat based on a myriad of conditions - track, fuel load, brake conditions, etc, etc.. In the average street car the conditions will vary between a full gas tank and one close to "E" - there is no "perfect" adjustment. Sometimes "well enough" is best left alone.

 

[Cranky]

BUT ... Rick Ehrenberg points out that with the APV the bias is like a broken clock - right twice a day (not his exact words but you get the drift). In race cars, the adjustment is done from the driver's seat based on a myriad of conditions - track, fuel load, brake conditions, etc, etc.. In the average street car the conditions will vary between a full gas tank and one close to "E" - there is no "perfect" adjustment. Sometimes "well enough" is best left alone.

Yup....if you have a little too much bias to the back and the tank is getting low then you can have early lock up in the rear....but, so can the stock setup. Having the adjuster knob in the cab is best but who on the street does that? ME!

 

[Frank1970]

Thanks! Yes I want to remove that prop valve on the frame and only use the adjustable. Wilwood also has a nice one. I also find it very annoying that everytime I bleed my brakes I have to crawl under and use that white stopper in place of the switch. Can I use some male/female flex lines to extend rear and front lines?

 

[gkent]

everytime I bleed my brakes I have to crawl under and use that white stopper in place of the switch.

?????????????? !!

 

[Frank1970]

There is a white stopper that plugs in in place of the switch when bleeding it comes with the aftermarket version of the prop valve

 

[Frank1970]

Something to do with preventing that plunger from sliding when bleeding , not exactly sure why