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Pushbutton shifter question

SUPERSTOCKRACER

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For the guys that run a pushbutton shifter, There's a way to make the buttons easier to push in.
The reason I'm asking is when I launch and get thrown back into my bench seat, it's a little tough depressing the buttons hard enough where i'm missing my shift by about 200-300 rpm's.
I have in the past lowered my shift point but I remeber doing something to my nuetral safety switch to make the pushbutton feel easier on the thumb.
Snaggle don't reply.

63 plymouth LVD 4.29.16.jpg
 
maybe I'm a novice but why run a push button on a drag car? I think a floor shifter of any kind would be better...just saying because when I was a kid in my drag car I could never reach for the 20 dollar bill before 2nd gear seems like a similar situation pushing a button on the dash to shift man
 
I have a NOS B&M floor-shifter, made for push-button cables..........
 
maybe I'm a novice but why run a push button on a drag car? I think a floor shifter of any kind would be better...just saying because when I was a kid in my drag car I could never reach for the 20 dollar bill before 2nd gear seems like a similar situation pushing a button on the dash to shift man


It's an all original max wedge car with all original interior/exterior and original panels and floors. To change it now would be a slap in the face.
Plus the cable 63 transmission has about 4500.00 in A & A parts in it now.

63 plymouth savoy3  10.15.15.jpg
 
For the guys that run a pushbutton shifter, There's a way to make the buttons easier to push in.
The reason I'm asking is when I launch and get thrown back into my bench seat, it's a little tough depressing the buttons hard enough where i'm missing my shift by about 200-300 rpm's.
I have in the past lowered my shift point but I remeber doing something to my nuetral safety switch to make the pushbutton feel easier on the thumb.
Snaggle don't reply.

View attachment 341882
The pushbutton tranny was absolutely legendary in the day preferred by Dick Landy and used by other drag racing legends. Here is a clip/paste from an article:
It's cool how the original photo caption says; “Pushbutton controls for Torqueflite trans are mounted high on the rollbar. The fans can watch Landy make his shifts”. It is worthwhile to note that, while the Torqueflite equipped 1965 Dodge and Plymouth FX cars were released to racers with column shift levers, Landy is known to have immediately converted his AWB hardtop to push button controls scavenged from a 1964 Dodge.
Some of these guys preferred the button shift over levers and manual for speed and accuracy. As a fan and owner of a typewriter drive mopar...I wouldn't want to drop the buttons.
 
So your question is, what do you do to the safety neutral switch to make it easier?

Remove it?

Put some locktite on the threads and back it out some, so it just makes contact?

Adjust your seat a little closer?

Install a handle at the buttons to hold onto?
 
So your question is, what do you do to the safety neutral switch to make it easier?

Remove it?

Put some locktite on the threads and back it out some, so it just makes contact?

Adjust your seat a little closer?

Install a handle at the buttons to hold onto?


I think I doubled up on the neutral safety switch concave outer washer to lessen the tension on the neutral safety switch but I also remember that different NSSwitches had different tensions.
 
So your question is, what do you do to the safety neutral switch to make it easier?

Remove it?

Put some locktite on the threads and back it out some, so it just makes contact?

Adjust your seat a little closer?

Install a handle at the buttons to hold onto?
if you google articles about PB TF set ups for racing there were some beefing up tricks done such as with the servo springs. The button linkage (behind dash) has springs behind each button and suppose there could be lighter replacement springs installed. However, there is other linkage engaging allowing the button to "click" into duty via a pivoting-locking cross member. Before messing with the springs ensure that the linkage is operating free as possible as over time (as I've found out) dust and grime accumulates and even some superficial rusting that can cause some sticking. A thorough cleaning and polishing can be done and use a light lubricant such as track grease or Teflon lubricant as oil or grease becomes a dust-grime magnet over time. Interesting how Landy remounted the buttons to the roll bar assuming the buttons were set closer to him aside from the "fans seeing his shifts.."
 
If you have one of these, and get the trans rebuilt, make damnsure they know you MUST keep the light tension spring on the gear select dentent roosterhead!
Caused me no end of grief when I let AAMCO idiots do a rebuild.
 
If you have one of these, and get the trans rebuilt, make damnsure they know you MUST keep the light tension spring on the gear select dentent roosterhead!
Caused me no end of grief when I let AAMCO idiots do a rebuild.
Great advice; I know a friend who encountered a similar problem some years back. There aren't a lot of shops who are familiar with the PB setups and will say they are experts having done countless TF tranny's...except they never worked on a PB!
 
if you google articles about PB TF set ups for racing there were some beefing up tricks done such as with the servo springs. The button linkage (behind dash) has springs behind each button and suppose there could be lighter replacement springs installed. However, there is other linkage engaging allowing the button to "click" into duty via a pivoting-locking cross member. Before messing with the springs ensure that the linkage is operating free as possible as over time (as I've found out) dust and grime accumulates and even some superficial rusting that can cause some sticking. A thorough cleaning and polishing can be done and use a light lubricant such as track grease or Teflon lubricant as oil or grease becomes a dust-grime magnet over time. Interesting how Landy remounted the buttons to the roll bar assuming the buttons were set closer to him aside from the "fans seeing his shifts.."



This is good information. Thankyou . I'm going to check out the mechanism behind the dash and lube it up. I wonderif graphite would work as well?
 
If you have one of these, and get the trans rebuilt, make damnsure they know you MUST keep the light tension spring on the gear select dentent roosterhead!
Caused me no end of grief when I let AAMCO idiots do a rebuild.


What happened? Tell me more on this.

Now I'm wondering if I put my other valve body in which is stiffer or the different neutral safety switch. I have a back up transmission and i'm thinking the NSS or the valvebody was switched around now. Buttons definitely feel different than before.
Just freshened up the full race trans.
 
If they put in a regular detent spring for lever shift, you'll need steel fingers to push the buttons and the cable ends will fail soon from the stress.
 
Graphite has the lubricating "properties" that bind and repels dust/grime as you likely already know sounds like the ticket for the linkage; even the stuff I used while a clean lubricant still can attract dust. Sounds like a better item to use...on the topic with all the work you have done on your tranny ($4500) reckon the shifter cable is all sound or replaced no possible issues with binding, etc.? A common problem with them is the sheathing deteriorates or has separated causing leakage. I did a cheap fix on mine a few years ago that's still holding up but someday I'll divvy out the cash for a new one if it leaks again since I have a long list of stuff to do on my '63.
 
Lube the buttons and the springs behind the instrument cluster, then put a lower tension spring on the rooster comb at valve body. may be able to grind a coil or two off the spring to lessen the tension.
 
The pushbutton tranny was absolutely legendary in the day...

50 years ago it must have been the hottest thing since sliced bread. Its 2016 and I see 0 serious drag racing legends running a push button shifter. He is talking about missing shifts by 200-300 RPM. $4500 in a transmission is a bit excessive even for a race trans. Never understood keeping a drag car "original" I am one of those guys who thinks more simple is better no matter what. You can get a floor-shifter that will actually help times get better. I understand the question is about making the buttons easier to push but my solution would be a slap in the face of Dick Landy. And who wants that....

Nice car BTW :)
 
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There are 2 different single pin neutral safety switches. The white plastic one and the steel one. One is longer than the other. The threaded portion of the switch can contact the rooster comb. Easy to see with the pan off. I never realized this until 2 years ago. Caused me a ton of grief. Note to "Blackburn" as far as racing with a push button, its no problem, S/S racer , my son and I all race and win with push button shifters. All of these cars run in the 8-9 second range.
Doug
 
There are 2 different single pin neutral safety switches. The white plastic one and the steel one. One is longer than the other. The threaded portion of the switch can contact the rooster comb. Easy to see with the pan off. I never realized this until 2 years ago. Caused me a ton of grief. Note to "Blackburn" as far as racing with a push button, its no problem, S/S racer , my son and I all race and win with push button shifters. All of these cars run in the 8-9 second range.
Doug
you must be a legend...
 
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