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Putting a tow hook on the gaarage floor?

SteveSS

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We can push non-running cars out of the garage fine. The slope of the driveway takes care of that. Getting them back in is a problem without 4 guys pushing I don't want to try the two old tires in front of a truck bumper redneck way. Can a plate be mounted to the garage floor with enough holding power to use a come-along to winch it in. I saw a plate that had a loop in it but it might not hold. Ideas? Opinions?:icon_study:
 
Set your mounting bolts in the concrete deep enough and they should hold fine. Ideally, you might consider busting a 6' x 6" square in the floor, then dig down about a foot. Put "J"-bolts in the hole and pour your concrete. Smooth the area, and bolt your steel plate with the tow-hook, "D"-ring, or large screw-eye to the floor. If you pull this out of the floor, then you need a lot more!
 
as a contractor i would use Simpson Titen H.D bolt...just drill your concrete floor then drive this bad boy in... just make sure you "Don't" have a post tension concrete floor...the floor should say it if it was...also I'd use a 1/2 inch impact electric driver and it works very hard driving it in, i would use 6" Bolt's

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concrete lag bolt.jpg

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http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/mechanical/titen-hd/
 
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yes it can. go to Tool mart and they have floor pots you can install. in our body bay I have 6 of them. 2 in the front corners, 2 at the middle one on each side and 2 in the rear corners. you may need to rent a core bore machine to install it but it's like a 3" wedge it in the floor with a chain attached to it. the more you pull the tighter it gets in the floor. it's good for 10+ ton pull. not bad in price.
 
In 2 out of the 3 bays in my garage, I mounted a plate I fabbed to the concrete floor using these drop in anchors. My electric cable winch then bolts to the plate in the bay I need to use it in.

As a former pipefitter, we used these same anchors in the construction industry to hang up to 4" diameter steel pipe (Chilled water, fire protection, etc..) from the concrete ceilings of commercial buildings. I figured if they could hold that load 24/7, they could also work just fine for my occosaional use with my winch and a rolling horizontal load. These use 3/8" all thread rod or bolts, and you just need a 1/2" diameter concrete bit for your drill (preferably a hammer drill) to put them in. After the hole is drilled, you drop the anchor in the hole and then 'set' the pin at the bottom of the anchor by driving it with a hammer. The pin expands the end of the anchor causing it to bite into the concrete. Once they're in, you won't get it back out.

Your concrete floor needs to be thick enough so that the top of the anchor is flush (or just slightly below) the finished surface when it's installed.

dropinanchors.jpg
 
I use these-

http://www.confast.com/products/thu...2014: Test Campaigns&utm_term=redhead anchors

Not sure of the actual bolt size without having the package in my hand, bit the wrench size for the nut is 3/4".

I have one in every bay (some are already there and used to hold the framing to the floor).

I made some "C" shaped stand offs for my HF marine winch-

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-marine-electric-winch-61237.html

...or use a manual "come-along" with a short length of heavy gauge chain.

Both methods work great to get cars up the slope and into the bays.

In fact, I've gotten pretty good at guessing the angle and position for the 90* turn.
 
A buddy anchored a winch to the floor to get the race car in the shop. Probably didn't use as much anchor science as discussed above, but bolts are in shear not tension and the race car is light compared to a street car.
 
Remote control winch

I am going to install a floor mounted 120v winch (secured to the concrete) with a remote control. I then can attach the cable/hook to the car and pull it in by myself. As I get older, it's more and more difficult to push these B bodies around. Any advise for a good 120v winch that needs to pull a car up a very slight incline? images.jpg
 
If your wall is not finished you might try to use the plate anchors rather than drilling holes.

Other than that if you go with a plate bolted down all the time (or be bolting it down all the time), consider drilling the holes on a 60° angle and just use long bolts as drop-in pins for quick removal.
 
It doesn't seem to be stressing anything they way I'm doing it.

I was a little apprehensive at first, but once you do it a couple of times, your mind eases.

The HF winch is powered by a battery and trickle charger that I have on a furniture dolly.
That makes it cordless and rechargeable.

The standoffs, that I got from the flea market trailer accessory shop (I think they are spring hangers) allow access to the wrench and nut, and also allow me to "clip" the winch on my car dolly or open trailer, so I can use it there as well, without hard mounting it.
It clips to a square bend U bolt and 5/16 stock brace.

Super handy, super portable.

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...and that HF winch is in year 7 after being stored outdoors uncovered for the first 5 years of it's life.

Only issue has been wire connection related.
 
Almost mangled a thumb with a damn come along. Electric winch is way better than one of those damn things plus you'll get tired of messing with it the older you get.
 
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