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Putting SS springs on my 63.

To 383 Man

What is the Brand name of the front wheels on your car? They look like the old and rare Centerline ProStock wheel from the mid 80 's.. When the came out a buddy of mine Al Corda (not name dropping) had a set first and really pissed me off, kind of childish i guess but, trye story! John Lang................PPSS I did buy a set of those wheels in a 3.5x15, and 10x15 and still have them
 
What is the Brand name of the front wheels on your car? They look like the old and rare Centerline ProStock wheel from the mid 80 's.. When the came out a buddy of mine Al Corda (not name dropping) had a set first and really pissed me off, kind of childish i guess but, trye story! John Lang................PPSS I did buy a set of those wheels in a 3.5x15, and 10x15 and still have them



They are American Racing wheels. I plan to replace them soon with Torque Thrust wheels up front soon. Thanks again for the kind replies. Ron
 
Yes I will be going with the bottom style that have the gray on them. They are the vintage looking ones that I want up front on my 63. Ron
 
Do yourself a favor and totally rebuild the front end while you are at it....if you haven't already done so. Six cylinder torsion bars are the ticket, and 90/10's are what I have used for years.

When you use the SS springs, stick the front segment up into the frame as far as you can. If you have spring hangers with two holes, use the upper one. Make sure the rear shackles are tilted with the upper part toward the front of the car, this way when they pull down it will pull straight.

For the money, SS springs can't be beat. We've found over the years that 10.50 is about the break.....after that you run into handling problems and that can make your life more interesting than you need it.
 
Thanks for the info Steve. I rebuilt the complete front end when I went over the whole car in 2005. Everything in the suspension was new other then the rear springs. Ron
 
Steve 1118, Maybe you should look at some NHRA stockers, and check the times they are turning with leaf springs. As in the 9 sec range! Legal AA/SA, or A/SA Ply and Dodges..........Later John Lang
 
John, most of those guys are running Caltracs, and SS springs are not legal in Stock Eliminator. The springs must have the original number of leaves, and be of the original length. No one that I know is running the conventional leaf spring set up that you and I are familiar with. Quite a few, if not all, are now running radial slicks that certainly helps. In addition, an awful lot of them have thier stuff massaged by Greg Luneak at Tri City Competition.....they work real well but are pricey.

What happens with the SS spring setup, especially with the snubber, is that the car tends to pivot on the snubber when it is up against the floor. It usually lifts the left side a bit more, causing the car to drift to the right. Like I say, we have been racing this setup for over forty years, and over the course of the years we have found that right around 10.50 it starts to get somewhat hairy for a set of out of the box SS springs.

The NSS Hemi 65 that I race now (I have been racing it since 1969) runs 10.80-10.90, 10.70 on a good day, and is getting close. It still short times at around 1.52-1.54, and I don't think that a ladder bar setup would help it. I still think that for the buck, the SS springs are the way to go.

A couple of years ago, they had a Mexican outfit making the springs for them and they did not work. Now, though, they seem to have that pretty much straightened out and they are now back to the quality in the old days. In the old days, many a Modified Production Camaro with a high winding small block used the SS springs developed by Chrysler.
 
I,m gonna be running the 3400 lb. springs too. 456 and 457. Glad to hear they are working good for you as my 66 bb coronet will probably weigh close to the same with me in it.
 
IT sounds like you guys are really up on this subject so I would like to run this by you...Way back in the day (1973) at a Direct Connection seminar in Ohio we were told by the techs when using S/S springs do not use the pinion snubber.Now over the years I have run both ways and never saw a difference.Also my cars were never faster than 11.90's to 13.00 so I figured the power wasn't there to make a difference.Anyone else ever heard this or is it something for a episode of MITHBUSTERS ??
 
I too remember when the hot set up for a Camaro or Nova was the Dana 60 and S/S springs. Most guys scattered the stock 10 or 12 bolts behind a big block or high reving small block stick car and were calling us Mopar racers for rears. Some even went with the 8 3/4.
 
If you take the locating pin brackets for the rearend and oblong the holes and put the u blots back on, the rearend will plant it`s self to the ground with stock springs. The rear will tilt a bit which plants the rear wheels. I also heard if you do a lot of street driving 6 cyl torsion bars was unsafe because they will break.
 
I can tell you I dont run a pinion snubber. I ran no faster and hooked no better with a snubber so I took it off. I have had a best 60 of 1.57 wich is not to bad for a mid 11 car. Ron
 
Look in the history book and check out the setup Dandy Dick did with the perch wedges on his Charger.
 
After messing with a snubber in the 70's....I took it off and never used another.
 
SS Springs

These are SS Springs with extended front hangers from Mancini on my '65.
 
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