quarter skin replacement

[cheno2]

I am replacing left 1/4 "skin" my '69 coronet convt. Which is the best way to do joint along the panel. Each person I ask is different. One says to flange it and glue? Flange and weld on outside only? And just read article from the expert Ron Covell to "butt weld with good penetration" is the best due to the flanging can cause expanding and contracting differences due to the double thickness of the flange. And one other question, should i seam it on top or just under the body line. Thanks in advance. I have the know how and resources to do it either way.Thanks

 

[747mopar]

Never tried the glue probably never will. I personally like to but weld them. Anytime you overlap (like a flange) it's visible from the inside and reguires sealing the backside against moisture. The way I do sheet metal repairs is, get the panel lined up and overlapping the old metal, with it firmly clamped in place I cut threw both layers with a 1/16" wide cut off wheel leaving the two panels butted with a 1/16" gap, then start tacking them as you go making sure to keep them spaced and short (you want your welder set so that you can very quickly put down a tack to avoid warping). You continue tacking until it's a solid weld, it is very critical to keep the tacks short and spaced out to avoid warpage. This is the way I like but there's nothing wrong with flanging them, flanging will be allot easier to keep warping under control "just be sure to seal the inside seam. As for the glue "I guess I'm old school, fix metal with metal". Where to seam? I try to keep any welds as close as possible to sharp body lines, places that are rigid to help hold the shape. Good luck

 

[hunt2elk]

Never tried the glue probably never will. I personally like to but weld them. Anytime you overlap (like a flange) it's visible from the inside and reguires sealing the backside against moisture. The way I do sheet metal repairs is, get the panel lined up and overlapping the old metal, with it firmly clamped in place I cut threw both layers with a 1/16" wide cut off wheel leaving the two panels butted with a 1/16" gap, then start tacking them as you go making sure to keep them spaced and short (you want your welder set so that you can very quickly put down a tack to avoid warping). You continue tacking until it's a solid weld, it is very critical to keep the tacks short and spaced out to avoid warpage. This is the way I like but there's nothing wrong with flanging them, flanging will be allot easier to keep warping under control "just be sure to seal the inside seam. As for the glue "I guess I'm old school, fix metal with metal". Where to seam? I try to keep any welds as close as possible to sharp body lines, places that are rigid to help hold the shape. Good luck

Good advice - this is what we just did on my Charger project.

 

[dsd1967]

I agree with what was said by 747. I've heard in the past where people glued the panels that a hairline crack appears in the bondo due to the adhesive moving over temp extremes. I would recommend to weld just below the upper body line...don't go over top....especially with the convertible. I don't know how precise the quarter skins upper crease is, but I know the door sill opening isn't real good. Also, make sure your door is on for alignment and to ensure the door gap looks good.

 

[wannadrag]

I did the splice on top with the flanged weld.Never see it up there plus its pretty rigid up there and less chance for warpage.Better be pretty precise with your cuts if you plan on butt welding it.Atleast with the overlap type you have a little wiggle room for error.

 

[5wndwcpe]

I do essentially the same as 747mopar outlined. The only difference is I don't care for using cutoff wheels to cut through both pieces of sheetmetal. If you wiggle the die grinder it opens up the gap too much making blowthroughs easier when welding. I use an airsaw which keeps the gap small and the cuts controllable.

It's also a good idea after a round of tacks to knock the bead flat and work the haz with a dolly on the backside to work out the shrinkage as you go.

The flange and adhesive method lends to a very strong joint but with an area that is exposed to the sun, you run the risk of having the repair witness when it starts to heat up.

 

[snakeoil24]

When you joint 2 panels I like to mig the panels together using very short burst's of air as i tack. As every everyone just move around and then after your all done i follow up a bronze silicone filler rod to close any holes left behind. Keep it so very cool. After I grind with a little spay oil on grinder flap discs. Then clean it up, and follow with a shrinker disc. The nest step is to fill the seam with lead. I know this is a great deal of work, but nothing seals up a seam better then lead. All the bondo produicts, even short or long hair types can not produce the same results. Also I find the adhesives are really a gimmick in these applications.