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Question about 62-65 B body rear end.....

RustyRatRod

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I have the old style tapered axle rear end in my 65 Coronet. Can I simply change the axles out to the flange type B body axles?
 
Good question Rusty,
I too have one, a 63 "3:90" Housing 741.
I bought axels from Yukon.
Anybody know the answer?


NOTE: Data taken from "MyMopar.com"
Axle and Housing Notes:

Because the 8-3/4" axle was available in most body lines, there are a variety of housings available. Following are some of the passenger car axle dimensions and notations. The 'Perches' dimension is the distance center to center between the spring mount perches. Dimensions are in inches.

Body line Track Perches Notes:

A-body, 65-72 55.6 43.0 4" lug bolt circle, offered in heavy duty apps.
B-body, 62-70 59.2 44.0
B-body, 71-72 62.0 47.3
B-body, 71-72 63.4 47.3 station wagon
C-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3
D-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3
E-body, 70-74 60.7 46.0

The diagram below illustrates 8-3/4" axles. The axle "A" is a 66-72 A-body axle. and the other two are longer axles that generally resemble the B and C body and truck axles. C body and truck axles can be shortened and re-splined by a quality machine shop, however it is important to note that not all C-body/Truck axles are created equally.

The top axle shows that at the location of where the new splines will be (26" from bearing retaining plate to the end of the axle, see measurement #2 in the diagram) the outside diameter (OD) must be larger than what the OD of the spline needs to be.

The bottom axle illustrates how many mid-60's axles taper as they near the splines, these can not be used as A-body short axle donors!




The Chrysler 8-3/4" rear axle assembly was introduced in 1957. It is a banjo-type ( Hotchkiss ) axle, ie. the differential is contained in a removable carrier assembly. The axle has an 8-3/4" diameter ring gear. There are three basic types available distinguished by their drive pinion stem diameter. The 8-3/4" axle was the primary axle assembly used in most car lines through 1972.
 
Thanks dude. That gets me closer. Since the housings were the same 62-70, those later axles oughtta fit. Thanks for that. Does anybody else know fo sho?
 
Don't think you can. Tube ends are different. Also the perch spacing is the same for 62-70B but there are 4 different wiidths.

Housing widths, flange to flange
A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"
E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"
A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"
 
I may be wrong but I also thought you could not just change the axles as thats what I heard. I put the complete drum to drum rear in my 63 Sport Fury from a 65 Plymouth and it works great. Ron
 
So,
Do we have a conclusion?
I know the 63s (early type) are tapered?
Also, the early style has the "nut" on the end.
 
They will not swap ... if you have your heart set on swapping call Dr. Diff. in Polson Montana and he will hook you up ... but be prepared to pay a bunch of money.

I'm sure someone else will offer a cheaper alternative.

So here is my cheaper alternative ... they are already super durable so don't replace them.

Read this - http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion
 
Tell you what. You send me a good axle and hub and I won't replace it. Somebody welded the five broken wheel studs to the left rear wheel after they broke them off trying to turn them the wrong way. What do you think the drum, axle and hub look like after I got all that apart? Believe me, I WANT to fix what's there. I don't think it's gonna be very cost effective.

They will not swap ... if you have your heart set on swapping call Dr. Diff. in Polson Montana and he will hook you up ... but be prepared to pay a bunch of money.

I'm sure someone else will offer a cheaper alternative.

So here is my cheaper alternative ... they are already super durable so don't replace them.

Read this - http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion
 
I apologize if my response appeared flippant in any way.

I am sure someone has an axle / hub that they would be willing to part with. I have a friend in Tuscon that had 2 last year ... I will give him a call to see if they are still available.
 
I apologize if my response appeared flippant in any way.

I am sure someone has an axle / hub that they would be willing to part with. I have a friend in Tuscon that had 2 last year ... I will give him a call to see if they are still available.

No problem......I can be equally flippant and then some. LOL ...and I do appreciate your input. You took time out to give it. Thanks. I had some success tonight. I took home a puller from the trans shop, got the hub off and saved the threads on the axle. I still need a hub and I had sent a guy on fleabay a ridiculous stupid low offer on a hub earlier today. I get home and he's accepted it. Oh happy day. It may come together like a beautiful dream yet.
 
RustyRatRod,

I'll try to provide some information as best I know. The last year of the tapered axle was 64'. If your 65' Coronet has a tapered axle it may have been an early production with left over parts or it was changed during it's life. Axles are specific to housings and you have to know your housing length.

1962-1963 tapered axle drum to drum - 58 1/2"
1964-tapered axle drum to drum - 59 1/2"
1965-flanged axle drum to drum - 59 1/2"

1962-1963 Tapered Axle 2070573 - 741 case w/o SG 30 1/2"
1962-1963 Tapered Axle 2404050 - 742 case w/ SG 30 7/16"

Note for the above, if your carrier was a 741 w/o SG and you change to a 742 carrier w/SG you will have to shorter the tapered axles 1/16" each to be able to set end play at .013" to .023". ( I have done this before and it works).

1965-1974 Flanged Axles may be interchanged within the housings of the same length.

Best check your 65' Coronet and see what you have as a starting point.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
 
Thanks Nick. I have a phucked up rear end as a starting point. I am going to repair what I see wrong first, so I can get it rolling again and go from there. Your info helps greatly. I really appreciate it. I won't have any problem shortening the axles if I need to as we have all that at work and then some. Thanks so much.

Rob
 
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