Question On Painting Car In Sections

[threewood]

I am getting a plan together to lay base coat and clear coat on my GTX. It is gutted completely and what I intend to do is spray the interior, door jambs, trunk, and engine compartment first to lock down any random debris before doing the outer shell. And get a decent feel for how it lays out and gun settings.

Do I need to tape and mask everything I am not spraying? Or better yet, will there be an issue with some overspray on the exterior when I get to doing the outer shell? Body is in SPI epoxy primer, base coat will be a silver metallic Lesonal, and clear coat is SPI 5100 Euro Clear.

I am limited on garage space and plan to shoot the car whole with doors, trunk and hood. Just thought it would be easier to do in two steps. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[khryslerkid]

The one thing you have to consider useing base coat, clear coat, is the window on the base coat. (The time after applying the base coat that you have to get the clear coat applied.) You're useing a metallic, so sanding or scuffing won't work if it's allowed to dry too long before applying the clear.

Also you don't want to create over spray on a panel, then paint over it. It will look like corn cob in texture. Minimum over spray is ok if you're moving on to that panel with paint and the over spray is still fresh.

 

[flypaper]

tape off/cover the outer shell before painting the insides..

 

[JimKueneman]

Read through my adventures on doing this in my thread. It is a pain to do in sections. Overspray gets everywhere and it is REALLY hard to not get it everywhere. I ended up reshooting the under hood and trunk because it looked worse than I wanted. The underside use to look flawless but it now is dulled a lot due to overspray but I am living with that since it is going to be a driver.

 

[XMAN JR]

When I sprayed my dads 62 polara I sprayed the roof first. I taped off the whole car. When I sprayed the rest I taped off everything door jambs, trunk, engine bay. Also you have to consider spraying a metallic base. It is best to do the car together to make sure it all matches. It can be done but tuff. If you do it apart you have to make sure that you spray everything the same. The way you spray, how many coats, air pressure ect. Base only.

 

[mmissile]

I've always used single-stage for interior areas and underside.

 

[dvw]

We do the jambs, under hood truck 1st. We also clear it. Tape off EVERYTHING. Then if its a metallic the sheet metal gets hung. Foam tape in the jambs and spray away. A little finesse at the end of jamb where the foam was but it hasn't been an issue. If it's non metallic spray the parts all separate and then assemble.
Doug

 

[threewood]

Thanks for the replies. My main reason for wanting to do the innards first is so I am not raising and lower the hood and trunk and swinging the doors where debris could pop out in the middle of painting.

I would like to do the engine compartment and underhood, trunk and under the trunklid first that way they can stay closed when I start spraying everything else. The doors should be less of a problem to open and close as there is less likelihood of stuff falling down on the paint.

I really like the idea of using SS on these areas!

 

[Cranky]

We do the jambs, under hood truck 1st. We also clear it. Tape off EVERYTHING. Then if its a metallic the sheet metal gets hung. Foam tape in the jambs and spray away. A little finesse at the end of jamb where the foam was but it hasn't been an issue. If it's non metallic spray the parts all separate and then assemble.
Doug

Double sided foam tape? Could you 'splain how you're using that?

 

[XMAN JR]

Here is what I use when I tape off the jambs.

 

[1967coronet]

cranky, that 3m foam tape is great like xman and dvw say, we use it at our shop most times on late model deer hits ect, the hood to fender gap , door to rocker/sill ect that foam does not leave a ridge line with the clear coat like tape will,
once done and unmasked you can take a piece of 1,500 wet and just scrub the meeting point of the old and new clear, follow with a little 3000 compound on a shop rag and wala.

 

[BarrsRestoration]

You can hit my link and see the steps we go through when painting. It's a silver Charger, but there are other cars shown in the booth with the parts. With silver (or any metallic) it is critical to have your body panels oriented the right way when sprayed. You don't want a door or fender laying flat on a stand, you want them mounted or hung from a rack with the surface vertical. Hoods and trunks not hanging, but laying flat. Doing otherwise will lead to color problems.
It's also critical to do a spray out card first to see how many coats it takes to get the true color, not just settle for "coverage" of a sealer or primer that may influence the tone. You need enough base on the surface (and I add 1 more coat) to know you have the true color.

http://www.barrsrestoration.com/1968-dodge-charger.html