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R & R 8 3/4 axle bearings with just hand tools, no press?

torredcuda

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Guy does it with green bearings but should be the same for tapered bearings, seems a bit crude but looks to work just fine. Doesn`t say what diameter pipe he used but I can measure that.

 
Omg.. put the flange against something solid at least.
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe he just didn`t want to move his camera but I would have stood it up with the flange on some wood instead of chasing it across the bench.
 
I installed new Timkins (Tapered roller) in my 67 Belvedere 8-3/4" Over 35 years ago using this method. Country boys do what country boys do, make it work with what you got. Over 100K miles and still in the car. No issues.

Wife's '78 Lebaron, 7-1/4", needed new bearings. Ball bearings. I tried this method again and destroyed them both, they were rougher than the ones I removed. I had the next pair pressed on.

All I can guess is the shock on the outer race, as you drive the inner race on, pinches the balls and deforms the outer race a little. Tapered roller is separate.

Bottom line for me, done that, not recommended by me.
 
I've done it.

Ain't pretty.

Std bearings.

(Did not watch the video)
 
My concern is the wall thickness of the pipe does not spread the load enough along with sharp blows instead of steady pressure might distort the bearing.
 
If you need the adjusters, along with the Timken bearings and seals, Yukon Gear has you covered. Just got them to undo the Greens the PO put on. The adjusters are very nicely made. Have not installed yet but soon. They have a web store on Amazon, which is where I scored mine.
Yukon Rear Axle Bearing and Seal Kit for Chrysler | AK C8.75-OEM-COMPLETE | Yukon Gear & Axle

IMG_7505.jpeg
 
When the video starts with the words” a hammer, chisel and a torch” I become concerned.
 
Didnt watch the vid but the dropper pipe method with bearing fresh from the oven is what I have always done after cutting off the old bearings and retainers.
 
Here's a better video at the 18:00 mark. Found this looking for tundra bearing installs once
 
I used a cutoff wheel, chisel and hammer to cut the old ones off and cleaned up the bearing surfaces with a stone and 400 grit paper myself but decided not to risk damaging my $200+ Timken bearings and had the local machine shop press them on along with one missing wheel stud for $60.
 
Nothing "wrong" with them, I used in them my `69 Barracuda street/strip build but for street cars that see aggressive cornering I prefer the factory tapered style.

69 cuda paint.jpg


Slalon cuda.JPG
 
On two of my vehicles, running the Greens, they don't last. Ran them on my Duster years ago and the wagon currently has them. Getting a thump, thump, thump when driving just like on the Duster from years ago. Tapered rollers are way better for lasting and side loads than ball. But it's weird when you think that Blue Oval stuff is ball and lasts. Maybe it's the construction/quality of the bearings? No clue. But replacement Timkens are on hand.
 
I learned this technique as an apprentice years ago from an old Australian master tech. He was brilliantly smart and savvy. Have done this a few times but much quicker on a press. If it works why not…
 
On two of my vehicles, running the Greens, they don't last. Ran them on my Duster years ago and the wagon currently has them. Getting a thump, thump, thump when driving just like on the Duster from years ago. Tapered rollers are way better for lasting and side loads than ball. But it's weird when you think that Blue Oval stuff is ball and lasts. Maybe it's the construction/quality of the bearings? No clue. But replacement Timkens are on hand.
Perhaps Ford is using a different type of ball bearing. Have you ever heard of a DUPLEX ANGULAR CONTACT BEARING. It's basically a ball bearing with deeper ball races and more balls as the rolling compliment. The bearings can be installed with thrust load in one direction (thrust in or thrust out) or one bearing in each direction, with thrust in both directions (axial). The disadvantage is the package is 2x the width of a single bearing. A DUPLEX. ANGULAR CONTACT BEARING is totally different than a Timken tapered roller bearings and is not interchangeable.........
BOB RENTON
 
If you grease the tapered bearings every 50k miles or so, they’ll last forever. If No regrease maintenance , then they burn up around 70k miles. They handle drifting and insane 100 mph cornering no problem . Don’t ask me how I know!

I wrap axle surface in duct tape to protect against a slip of the dremel.use the chisel to spread the retainer ring by just driving a “v” into the ring in 4 places 90 degrees around its circumference . Then I cut the bearing cage and peel it off with all the rollers, then I cut a slot in the inner race with a dremel and a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel. Once almost cut through, I get a big chisel and a BFH, and drive the chisel into the cut until inner race splits. Make sure you support the shaft on a block of wood. Once split, the inner race slides right off. Then press on new bearing assemblies. A 4’ steel pipe and hammer can also be used to drive on the bearing if the pipe fits squarely around the inner race.
 
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