Radiant floor heat planning.

[747mopar]

If it was only 4in thick that would be good but 6in thick you will need out door reset or you will be over heating space as it will take to long for surface to respond

I really only need 4" but have one corner that settled quite a bit that worries me. I'll fill it with gravel but holding the gravel in is what I have to figure out since it's on the corner where there a steep drop off. For the money another 2" of concrete for insurance is a drop in the bucket.

 

[jason79]

Looks like a handy tool but also looks like a bad idea as far as Pex placement? By placing the lines on the foam there will be limited surface contact with the concrete, I would think putting it in the center or closer to the surface would be ideal. I'm a glutton for punishment so fastening it down to wire won't bother me.

Thanks

We have never noticed any difference as far as the pex placement in the concrete. We used to do centered fastened to mesh. After I bought the stapler we will never go back. The amount of time and back/knee pain it saves is awesome. Also never noticed a difference in a 4in verse 6in slab as far as the heating goes. You will learn to just set the temp and walk away. This system is not ment for occasional use.

 

[1778ppr]

FWIW, here’s mine. I did it myself. !/2” pex non oxygen barrier (oxygen barrier or not, depends on boiler type/construction/material) clipped to 6”x6” mesh, on 12” centers, with each loop about 200’. Works perfect. It sits on 2” foam with plastic sheeting as a moisture barrier under that. The 5” slab has no outside contact except at the over head doors. Even with the -30 we had this last winter this system worked great. The 6x6 mesh makes it a lot easier to lay out the pex and adds strength to the concrete.