Random no spark condition that defies common logic.

[Kern Dog]

It is a solid lifter cam.
I have found that in some cases, an engine with a lot of initial timing will crank slower. Given that many stock engines are set at 6 degrees of initial timing and that I am at 16-17, this makes sense to me.

 

[kiwigtx]

Greg, with an electronic pickup in the distributor, you need to check the air-gap and set it to around 10-12 thou ) 0.010" - 0.012" - and you must NOT use a steel or magnetic style feeler gauge to do this. I use a plastic set that I bought a few years ago.. You can also use a brass set, but never use steel gauges.

Check to see if you have spark at the coil first, then see what happens after the cap is replaced - check one plug lead to ground.

I had the same thing only a couple of weeks ago with a Ford and an MSD distributor.

You can always pull the distributor and test it the manor shown in my "How to" video......



Erratic operation of magnetic pickup - test across pickup wires on ohm meter - reading should be between 500-600 ohms
Running the distributor with a drill, and the meter set to AC Volts, you should see the reading rise from 0 to around 16 Volts.

At least by doing this you can conclusively rule out a distributor problem. Pickups are easy to swap out and cheaper than swapping a distributor.

 

[NoCar2023]

Got it, Solid cam, very nice.
I am clicking back to watch that jiggle test again.
Thanks.

 

[Kern Dog]

I forgot to mention....
I DID replace the pickup mechanism in the distributor a couple of years ago. The Mopar Performance manual states to set the air gap using a brass feeler gauge too. I have had the gap slip open before but never too far to start. Once it slipped open without my knowledge...I tried to drag race the car but the car popped and stumbled from 1/2 throttle to the floor. Talk about embarrassing !

I actually have 2 Mopar Performance electronic distributors, one with a slower advance, one a bit faster. I have swapped them back and forth before when this issue crop up.

 

[wagonman]

For what it is worth I am doing a Duster that is a former race car. Battery in the trunk, hacked wiring harness ect. Got it all together with a ign system from Rick Eherberg. It was dynoed and on the first crank up in the car it ran great. After that it got progressivly harder to start. Now no start at all. Got my 12 volts to the ballast blue wire but only 8V on the brown start wire. Checked the ckt bac to the ignition sw and 8V coming out of the sw. I swaped modules with my R/R and it is good. Got a new sw coming, should be here soon. Keeping my fingers crossed. Lots of green crustys in the harness connectors. I have put redundent grounds all over just to be sure of no issues there. Had a MSD coil in it and a Standard coil in it. Cant remember the MSD specs but they indicated a bad coil and the Standard was leaking oil out the op so it has new NAPA coil. I am thinking a severe voltage drop in the start ckt is the problem. Got a points Dist for backup just in case.

 

[Kern Dog]

One thing that just occurred to me:
Maybe low battery voltage has an effect on a "no spark" condition? Maybe not as much with a simple points type ignition but what about with a factory based electronic setup?
Just 'spitballin....The car started up easily after I charged the battery. It wasn't dead before, just a bit discharged from cranking for a bit. The battery is in the trunk so it isn't as if I bumped a wire under the hood. It just decided to start once the battery was up to spec.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Have not had a problem if enough juice to spin the starter. Have you considered using a thermal gun to check cylinder temps?

 

[Kern Dog]

No. The problem I've had does not usually happen after the engine has been run. It is most common on a cold start.

 

[bearman]

just a thought with the battery, has anyone looked at the deep cycle type. i know that the big rv use these type because of non use on a daily base. i have seen them set for months and just a low surface charge but when you hit the start button they have the juice stored to fire up the gen sets or start the diesel engine. just a thought but i do agree that the battery always needs to be at its best.

 

[ckessel]

You are most likely pursuing the same issues I had on mine. Old electrical with lots of poor connections and resistance. Since you are a construction type, treat it like a remodel on an old house with crappy wiring and plumbing. Boot it and start over with fresh stuff.

 

[yella71]

This may or may not help, but a few years ago I built a yj jeep with a 318 from an 85 pick up. I rewired the jeep engine compartment to use the mopar electronic ignition. single ballast. I found if the jeep sat for a while (a week or two) it would not start. It had no spark. turns out it was a poor conection at the ballast. What I would do is just unplug the ballast and plug it back in and wa la spark. try that next time it has no spark.

 

[Kern Dog]

I probably FAILED to mention...It is a Red Top Optima.
The wiggle test makes sense but since I have no tits, it will not be as entertaining as BeanHeads video.

 

[ckessel]

I hear you on that video! Love it!

 

[Kern Dog]

On another thread, a guy has trouble with his car failing to stay running after releasing the key.
Crackedback wrote this:
"Lots of time it's the bulkhead or the ballast.

Simple test, put the key in run, test the side of ballast not connected to coil. No power, bulkhead or switch is a likely culprit. If you have power, test other side of ballast. No power, bad ballast."

I just wanted to cut and paste that here for future reference.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Sounds like a intermittent pick up in the distributor. They do funky things when they are about to go fully out.

 

[PeteBell68]

Hi Kern dog , you probably have checked this but I had a similar problem and it was the distributor cap rotor .
It had rust from condensation I guess .
Put a new one on and it fired up every time no issue .
Just because I didn't want to think I was crazy I cleaned up the old and it worked as well .

Car looks awesome .