Really???

747mopar

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As far as I'm concerned he's insane but I don't buy cars to brag about having an "original numbers matching" car that never gets driven. Buy a 318 Charger that's missing it's drivetrain and start with a blank slate and build what you want. I don't know any original Chargers as comfortable, more fuel efficient or more fun to drive than my SE 318 Charger (456 stroker/6speed) that only cost $3,500.

Have fun with them and rack the mikes up.
 

ETD66SS

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I plan to go look at this Charger this week. Is there anything that makes it "unrestorable" in terms of rot? Looking on the AMD website there seems to be so much sheet metal available, but not being Mopar guy I am not sure what pieces aren't, and what would make it a show stopper or to the point I'd need a donor car.

Also, for the guys who have used AMD quarters, doors, etc, how is the fit on these B-Bodies? How much rework is generally required to get the panels to fit?
 
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747mopar

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I used AMD's full quarters, Dutchman and tailight panel but used other brands for the inner front fender, rear valance and trunk. There was no comparison, AMD's stuff fit as expected requiring a little massage but the others were horrible. As for what to look for, I look more for the amount of rot more so than where it is. You can buy nearly everything but it ads up. If it was a vinyl top be prepared to investigate window channels and the inner trunk. Look closely at the front frame rails around where the upper arm attaches and back by the torsion bars. Rear rails naturally go bad aft the axle. Also check the inner and outer rockers because they are structural in these cars.

Point is I don't mind replacing damn near the whole rear of a car but when it's the rear, doors, roof, fenders, quarters....... $$$$$$
 

ETD66SS

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I used AMD's full quarters, Dutchman and tailight panel but used other brands for the inner front fender, rear valance and trunk. There was no comparison, AMD's stuff fit as expected requiring a little massage but the others were horrible. As for what to look for, I look more for the amount of rot more so than where it is. You can buy nearly everything but it ads up. If it was a vinyl top be prepared to investigate window channels and the inner trunk. Look closely at the front frame rails around where the upper arm attaches and back by the torsion bars. Rear rails naturally go bad aft the axle. Also check the inner and outer rockers because they are structural in these cars.

Point is I don't mind replacing damn near the whole rear of a car but when it's the rear, doors, roof, fenders, quarters....... $$$$$$

It is a vinyl top car... I'll try to take a bunch of pictures if the dude lets me.

I actually really enjoy doing metal work, it's probably what I am best at, except if the panel fit is garbage, then I get really pissed off at the Asian sheet metal.
 

ETD66SS

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As a "fun" exercise, I made a list of all the pertinent sheet metal AMD has available, I can quickly highlight what the car would need as I look at it.



The order is just how it appeared on the AMD website, it would probably be better to reorder it based on looking at the car from front to back etc.
 

FJ6AAR

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Auto metal direct installation center will give you a discount. This is not AMD. Look at their website and it will add the total for you.
 

ETD66SS

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Auto metal direct installation center will give you a discount. This is not AMD. Look at their website and it will add the total for you.

Yeah, I went online to use the estimation tool, but I believe that is them doing the work? I would be doing the work myself.
 

Basket case

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same same...be replacing all the sheet metal on either one....
 

ETD66SS

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They will sell you the metal at a discount price.

Hmm, that's interesting, why would they do that I wonder?

Only thing I have ever ordered from AMD is door skins for my 66 Chevelle and there was shipping damage because they were packaged very poorly, so have not had a great experience with them so far, but I ordered from the AMD website, not the installation center, didn't know there was a difference...
 

ETD66SS

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As far as I'm concerned he's insane but I don't buy cars to brag about having an "original numbers matching" car that never gets driven. Buy a 318 Charger that's missing it's drivetrain and start with a blank slate and build what you want. I don't know any original Chargers as comfortable, more fuel efficient or more fun to drive than my SE 318 Charger (456 stroker/6speed) that only cost $3,500.

Have fun with them and rack the mikes up.

For me, I don't know if it is about "bragging" that I have a #'s matching car. I think the issue comes in when deciding how much to spend on a car. You can only spend so much on a 318 Charger/Coronet before you fly past it's ultimate value if you ever had to part with it. A car such as this one, there is so much more headroom. With my #'s matching Chevelle project, there were places I spent more $$ that I probably should have, but all said and done, it still has the potential to sell for more than I have invested into it. I don't plan to sell it, but if I had to it's nice to know I won't be taking it up the rear.

Having said all that, I am not opposed to buying a base model and making it what I want, it's just that I think a true 440 4spd R/T opportunity doesn't really come around very often.
 

747mopar

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I can definitely see that although any nice Charger with a good drivetrain (Big Block) fetches good money.
 

PP1RT

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Having said all that, I am not opposed to buying a base model and making it what I want, it's just that I think a true 440 4spd R/T opportunity doesn't really come around very often.[/QUOTE]

That is the point. A person must pay some attention to the values. It may be a hobby but it is an expensive one. Smart money goes to the real deal as it will hold its value better in an economic downturn. A clown car will still have value and be fun to drive but in the end the smart money is in the real deal.This is a worldwide thing with collectors around the world. Those with the money will want to invest in a real car with authenticity that can be verified.
It's your money so do what you want with it, but like you said a real R/T 4spd Dana car doesn't pop up every day. Make sure it has at least a fender tag to verify the drivetrain.
 

ETD66SS

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Make sure it has at least a fender tag to verify the drivetrain.

Can someone school me on the fender tag a bit? What codes should I be looking for? Is there a partial VIN on the fender tag to cross reference with the VIN plate? And, how do I make sure it is a DANA 60 and wasn't changed out with a lesser rear end? I know what a GM 10 bolt vs. a 12 bolt looks like, but have no clue on the Mopar differentials.

I never pay much attention to Mark on Graveyard Carz when he's getting all goofy rambling off numbers, maybe I should pay better attention. Also, isn't there some stamped numbers on the inner fenders and core support I should be looking for?

This is what the add states for the fender tag:
Mint orig fender tag and orig certicard with orig CA owners name on it as well as a 1975 NY body shop invoice with 2nd NY owners name on it for body work and painting the car back to GG1 from previous "Bullett" themed black paint job.

One thing I must say is, looking at pictures of Charges, GG1 green is my least favorite...
 
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PP1RT

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The vin should start with XS29L8.
 

PP1RT

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On the bottom line of the fender tag from left to right should read XS29 83 3 (Next 2 digit code is tires) (next 3 digit code us build date) (next is a 6 digit sales order code).
83 is code for a 440. 3 code is a 4spd. The sales order code is what you will be looking for stamped on the body. I will get some pics posted to help show the locations of the stamps later.
Up a couple lines you will see the letters AX. Under tha A i believe it should have a 6. And under the X should be the number 8.
 

PP1RT

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This should help id the Dana 60

20170913_095148.jpg
 
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