Rear Drum Brakes

[Strukkingfuggle]

My 64 Dodge 330 slant 6 4 door with 29K miles on it needs me in the brake system ... passenger side rear acts like a sea anchor when I have to stop hard ... I am told there needs to be a special tool for pulling drums ... new to the crate and Mopars ... can somebody fill me in on what this means?

thanks ... I appreciate the help

J=M

 

[5.7 hemi]

Its called a brake drum puller and they about 100-150 buck on ebay.

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Well ... thanks for taking the time ... now I know ... do all models have this issue? Must be a rear end out there that you don't have to yard off the drums with a puller ... no?


Thanks

J=M

 

[Mr4Speed]

I believe that Chrysler started with the later type drums in 1964; these spindle-drums are a pain. And you need a puller. Get one, will help a lot.
I made a puller myself, but my drums were stuck so i had to torch them red-hot. Result: 1 bad drum.
Good luck,

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

aha ... SPINDLES ... now I understand ... not even going to take the tire off until I get a drum puller ... I'll let the contents behind be my birthday present ... lol

Thanks for taking the time

J=M BC

 

[Centerline]

Here's a link to a Wiki article I wrote on how to remove your hubs and drums and then convert the rear brakes to the later ('65 and up) slip on drums. It should give you a good idea of how to tackle this problem.

Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Great stuff! ... can anybody recommend a make of shoes that are non-metallic? The metallic ones eat the old drums like a machinists lathe...

Regards

J=M

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Centerline

That link was the cats' pink pucker ... makes sense ... and will do ...

J=M BC

 

[1moreproject]

Great stuff! ... can anybody recommend a make of shoes that are non-metallic? The metallic ones eat the old drums like a machinists lathe...

I recently went looking for what they used to call "organic" linings and as near as I can tell, even the cheap ones are semi-metalic these days. You might take your shoes to a local brake and clutch shop and have them relined.

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Good idea ... we have one in town here ... but thought maybe ceramic composite

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Centerline

Another means of ridding the swedge is a hole saw with the ID the size of the wheel stud ...

 

[Moparsmitty]

Great stuff! ... can anybody recommend a make of shoes that are non-metallic? The metallic ones eat the old drums like a machinists lathe...

Regards

J=M

I'm using NAPA Ultra Premium shoes on the back of my 64. They seem to work just fine. I wouldn't think that they will chew up the drums very quickly since the front brakes do most of the work anyway. Just make sure they are adjusted properly and not dragging.

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Thanks for taking the time ... this is my fifth week owning this thing and the learning curve is vertical ... except when people in this forum step in ... much appreciated ... old crate seems to be happy though ... going through all the details ... greasing up window regulators, door locks, dash knobs and switches, replaced squirter pump, used cutting torch tip cleaner on squirter nozzles, greased drive train, oil change, adjusted e brake, tightened up rear view, glove box door right hinge fixed, firewall and all wiring connectors cleaned up, still has factory fan belt and heater hoses on it ... might need to change them after 48 years ... lol ... linkage to tranny needs adjustment ... couldn't figure out how to put original jack and original spare set up in trunk ... I guess that's why Dodge put that sticker on the trunk lid ... sheesh ... stupid is as stupid does .... have dog dish hupcaps and steel wheels from 64 too ... no side views ... I guess factory options ... put peeps on the door lip ... no rear seat belts either ... kinda good though ... put my ex and her Mother in the back seat and hit speed bumps doing 50+ MPH ... I'll be wearing the only helmet as they do the shake an' bake inside the passenger compartment ... sorry it's PTED ... (Post Traumatic Ex Disorder) ... I suffer from it every now and then ... lol!

Regards

J=M

 

[Centerline]

Centerline

Another means of ridding the swedge is a hole saw with the ID the size of the wheel stud ...

That is more or less what a swedge cutter is. ;-)

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

hmm ... learned something again ... Thanks!

 

[bf39y8j]

you will have to heat the center of the drum up quickly with the nut loose and use one of these pullers to get it off

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-432...H0JIC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2/180-6338742-2397945

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Well ... I have to get into them this weekend or at the latest next ... they are slowing the sled down but not stopping it ... going to start on the fronts and move to the back ... if I have to crank on, torch or beat on them or the drum puller, ... I'll just repeat my exe's name ... over and over ... it'll be easier that way ... a therapy of sorts ... Thanks for the info all! Much appreciated ...

J=M

 

[hendo0601]

This is NOT the preferred method for removing the tapered axle rear drums BUT it has worked for me in a pinch. The puller is absotively posolutely the best method out there, but this one will work...

Remove the rear axle grease cap and loosen the retaining nut a turn or two....drive around the block a few times making both left and right hand turns...come home and loosen the lug nuts one turn then jack up the rear end (usually under the frame to allow tire clearance from the fender) and remove the big center castle nut. Grab the tire and give a sharp yank backwards (towards you) and the axle SHOULD be popped loose. At this point remove the lugnuts and the wheel/tire and boom! drum comes off.

Again, this is NOT the preferred nor the safest method to use but in the absence of a drum puller it does in fact work.

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

Just found one of those lug nut drum pullers at a swap meet ... cheep ... 30 Bucks ... looks like it was used on two drums and that's it ... my lucky day! Going to lurk on the rears tomorrow .... need to get the worst done first ... starting with the passenger rear ... it's locking up like a sonnamagucci ... hopefully not contaminated with rear diff fluid ... if so NEW TOPIC ... lol ... thanks everybody

 

[Strukkingfuggle]

This is NOT the preferred method for removing the tapered axle rear drums BUT it has worked for me in a pinch. The puller is absotively posolutely the best method out there, but this one will work...

Remove the rear axle grease cap and loosen the retaining nut a turn or .... QUOTE]


I like that method ... it may sound a bit vulgarian to some but I bet my sweet bippy that it would work ... I am diving in tomorrow ... if I need TNT ... that drum has to come off ... I suspect diff contam ...